Al Dente Review
I found a branch of Al Dente I didn’t know about the other day. This one is on Jaffe Road in Wanchai. I must admit, it’s not really the kind of place where I would have gone looking for a nice little ‘hole in the wall’ type Italian restaurant. It’s on the unfashionable part of the road beyond the bridge that leads to Central Plaza and the immigration department.
As I was walking by I caught what sounded suspiciously like the ivory tickling of Art Tatum. Before I knew what had happened I was sitting there with a glass of red wine in one hand, a menu in the other and some truly nifty piano playing wafting through the air.
It really is quite a small place, long and narrow with seating for no more than about 30 people. It was not too full when I arrived but several of the tables had been pushed together in preparation for what looked like a group of 12-14. The table by the door also had a large reserved sign on it. This was the middle of the week and I was beginning to feel decidedly lucky to have got a table without making a reservation first.
For starters I ordered the Fungi Ala Griglia ($79). This consisted of two plump portobello mushrooms, char grilled and topped with goats cheese, and served on a bed of lettuce and arugula with tomatoes. I love these mushrooms and the char grilling really brought out the rich earthy flavour. I was most impressed.
So impressed that I hadn’t noticed the Art Tatum CD had finished and been replaced with what sounded suspiciously like Kenny G.
It wasn’t long before the main course arrived. I had originally ordered a veal dish but veal had been unavailable on this particular evening. The waiter, instead, offered me a variation made with fillet of chicken ($149).
The chicken was layered with spinach, sage, cheese and proscuitto, served on a bed of creamed potato with a truffle and mushroom sauce. This, I decided, was a very happy alternative to the veal.
By now the restaurant had filled up and there were still people arriving, hoping to get a table. I ordered a mixed berry crumble with ice cream ($48) for dessert.
I was feeling quite full - all the servings had been generous, and would be perfect for sharing. Which is just what the diners on the adjacent table table were doing and I couldn’t help but smile knowingly as they admired their newly arrived portobello mushrooms.
I paid my bill and, much to the relief of the hungry faces outside, went off in search of Delaneys and a pint of Kilkenny for the road.
Posted: October 13th, 2006 under European, Italian, Reviews, Wanchai.