Eat Drink Hong Kong

Stepping off of Leighton Road and into Agnes B is like stepping into a little corner of Paris. Or rather the Paris of a bygone era. It’s hard not to be impressed by the decor. From vintage style floor tiles and the panelling on the walls to the brass light fittings and antique clock.

Dark wooden furnishings set with crisp white table linen complete the scene whilst net curtains hung from a brass rail at half window height blocks Leighton Road from view. The attention to detail is meticulous.

The only thing to give the game away is the very modern background music.

I took a table in the corner from where I could see the whole restaurant. It was still early so there were not too many customers yet, the waiter brought me a menu and then showed me the daily blackboard. The blackboard options were interesting but I decided to stay with the main menu.

They were about to introduce a whole new wine menu a day or two after I was there so the only wine they had left that I could order by the glass was a red. I didn’t catch the name, I’m a bit of a slacker when it comes to wine, but it was very agreeable.

I already knew that I wanted French onion soup ($58). I’m not a huge fan of soups generally. I like them well enough but I tend to think that a soup course is often more than I really need. But I make an exception for French onion soup. The dish is a firm favourite of mine and a good one will always be rewarded with repeat custom.

But before that I had ordered a dish called Gravadlax ($98). This is dill-cured salmon served with a sweet mustard sauce and a light salad. I’d thought some rye or brown bread might be served with it but it was not forthcoming. Not to worry, I still had some in the bread basked that had arrived when I sat down.

The onion soup came next and it was all I could have hoped for. I tried to take it slowly and savour it but I’m afraid I failed and before long I was mopping out the bottom of the red ceramic dish in which it was served with the remains of the bread basket.

I celebrated its departure with a large draft of wine and listened to the music. It was completely out of context with the surroundings but it was a pleasing contrast. It was a fairly laid back sound, gentle but not spineless.

My listening was interrupted by the grilled rack of lamb ($258) that I had ordered. Three meaty cutlets served with potatoes and another salad. It was good but I did feel the lamb deserved a little something more than just a salad. Asparagus perhaps, some carrot or green peas. It didn’t worry me all that much and to be honest if I had not already had salad with the gravadlax it probably would have bothered me at all.

For dessert I chose pear with raspberries, strawberries and black currant. All served with a scoop of home made vanilla ice cream ($68). Delicious.

I rounded off with a coffee and sat listening to the music for a while. It was a good meal in a very pleasant environment. But it is the French onion soup that will keep bringing me back.