Eat Drink Hong Kong

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An odd name, even by the odd naming conventions of pubs. There are two branches, one in Tsim Sha Tsui and another in Times Square, Causeway Bay. I went along to the latter the other evening.

The ‘gastropub’, as 798 Unit & Co describe themselves is mostly reminiscent of a medieval beer hall. Nothing particularly odd about that, indeed the larger tables in the middle that are common in such beer halls are perfectly suited to Hong Kong peoples love of dining together in large groups.

What was a bit strange were the hacienda-like arches along one side and the distinctly Mediterranean menu. I’d already ordered a Murphy’s Stout and was searching the menu for something that might go with it. In the end I gave up thinking I could gulp the beer down while I was waiting for the food to arrive and then order a glass of wine.

I was wrong. I ordered two tapas, both of which arrived with a promptness and efficiency that was that was really quite impressive. I looked towards the kitchen with admiration. The kitchen is actually visible through the back wall. The bright reassuring cleanliness of the modern facility contrasts with both the beer hall and the hacienda.

The tapas were wasabi beef ($80) and grilled octopus with chorizo, roast tomato and onions ($68). Both were very good. The only criticism I would level would be at the octopus and chorizo and that was because there was substantially more octopus and whilst I do like it, I like chorizo equally.

The menu boasts all the regulation pizzas and pastas and delicious though they probably are, I figured that would be a mistake after two largish tapas. I’d already consulted with the waitress. We’d concluded that the Murphy’s would go well with a steak and we could probably get away with a pizza. But, if we left beer out of the equation than we both agreed that the salmon filet with parsley crust in a fish broth with tomato and olives ($108) would be ideal.

She assured me it was one of the lighter entrees on the menu and would leave me with ample room for dessert. It was delicious too. The soup had a pleasant sharpness to it that complemented the fish. I imagined it would probably do alright with a hint of jalapeño added to it.

I mopped up the last of the soup with the remains of the crusty bread that had been served when I arrived. And turned my attention to the stout. It had lost it’s ‘just out of the fridge’ chill which is actually beneficial for a stout. I spent a leisurely ten or fifteen minutes enjoying that and watching people arrive.

It was mostly an after office crowd while I was there and whilst it wasn’t full I doubt there would be too many complaints from the management. I guessed that by 8.30pm you would be lucky to get a table without a prior reservation.

All the dishes on the dessert menu are tried and trusted favourites. I ordered the brownies with banana fudge gelato ($42) and a coffee.

Nobody seemed all that fazed by the contrasting styles of the restaurant. I suspect I’m one of the few people around that actually notices these things. But it doesn’t really worry me, how can it when I am going to step out and straight back in to a bustling shopping mall?

Shop 1203, 12/F Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 0611

2/F 17 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2983 2130

Stepping off of Leighton Road and into Agnes B is like stepping into a little corner of Paris. Or rather the Paris of a bygone era. It’s hard not to be impressed by the decor. From vintage style floor tiles and the panelling on the walls to the brass light fittings and antique clock.

Dark wooden furnishings set with crisp white table linen complete the scene whilst net curtains hung from a brass rail at half window height blocks Leighton Road from view. The attention to detail is meticulous.

The only thing to give the game away is the very modern background music.

I took a table in the corner from where I could see the whole restaurant. It was still early so there were not too many customers yet, the waiter brought me a menu and then showed me the daily blackboard. The blackboard options were interesting but I decided to stay with the main menu.

They were about to introduce a whole new wine menu a day or two after I was there so the only wine they had left that I could order by the glass was a red. I didn’t catch the name, I’m a bit of a slacker when it comes to wine, but it was very agreeable.

I already knew that I wanted French onion soup ($58). I’m not a huge fan of soups generally. I like them well enough but I tend to think that a soup course is often more than I really need. But I make an exception for French onion soup. The dish is a firm favourite of mine and a good one will always be rewarded with repeat custom.

But before that I had ordered a dish called Gravadlax ($98). This is dill-cured salmon served with a sweet mustard sauce and a light salad. I’d thought some rye or brown bread might be served with it but it was not forthcoming. Not to worry, I still had some in the bread basked that had arrived when I sat down.

The onion soup came next and it was all I could have hoped for. I tried to take it slowly and savour it but I’m afraid I failed and before long I was mopping out the bottom of the red ceramic dish in which it was served with the remains of the bread basket.

I celebrated its departure with a large draft of wine and listened to the music. It was completely out of context with the surroundings but it was a pleasing contrast. It was a fairly laid back sound, gentle but not spineless.

My listening was interrupted by the grilled rack of lamb ($258) that I had ordered. Three meaty cutlets served with potatoes and another salad. It was good but I did feel the lamb deserved a little something more than just a salad. Asparagus perhaps, some carrot or green peas. It didn’t worry me all that much and to be honest if I had not already had salad with the gravadlax it probably would have bothered me at all.

For dessert I chose pear with raspberries, strawberries and black currant. All served with a scoop of home made vanilla ice cream ($68). Delicious.

I rounded off with a coffee and sat listening to the music for a while. It was a good meal in a very pleasant environment. But it is the French onion soup that will keep bringing me back.

Shop 1, Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 2718

13/F Henry House
42 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 2928

Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

7/F Circle Tower
28 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 0671

Shop B 2/F Hennessy Apartment
48 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 8234

2/F Fu Hing House
60 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 0250

G/F 16 Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 4122
Fax 2572 6226

Lower G/F Henry House
42 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3428 8922
Fax 3428 8933

1/F Dragon Rise
9-11 Pennington Street
Causeway Bay
Tel 2576 5684

2/F Plaza 2000, 2-4 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2368 1263

G/F 4 Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 1856
Fax 2808 4450

Food Forum, 11/F, Times Square
Matheson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 3298
Fax 2506 4284

9/F World Trade Centre
280 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 6777

G/F 2-5 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 0450

F1 Fashion Island
19 Great George Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 1582

27/F Bartlock Centre
3 Yiu Wa Street
Causeway Bay
Tel 2893 2080

34 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 203 4009

27/F Continental Diamond Plaza
523-527 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 7033

Bayview
22/F, United Success Centre
508 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel: 3427 3726

22/F, United Success Centre
508 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3427 3726

26/F Continental Diamond Plaza
523-527 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 7022

Food Forum, 12/F, Times Square
Matheson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 3288

ShopG8, G/F Elizabeth House
Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 5700

Food Forum, 12/F, Times Square
Matheson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 3377

3/F 54 Jardine’s Bazaar
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 1511

Shop D G/F Welcome Mansion
58-64 Paterson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 9302

G/F, 26 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 6788

G/F, 123 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 4785

1/F 13 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 2125

This is a pleasant little place in one of the less frenetic pockets of Causeway Bay. It’s an all day place with menus for breakfast, lunch, afternoon teas and dinner.

The dinners are in the form of a set meal; for three courses $168; four courses, $188. The extra course being soup. Each item is also individually priced so you could just order a main course if you wanted to.

There are half a dozen options each for starter and main. These change frequently according to what is available at market. There were two choices for soup but I’d already decided against the four course option.

For my starter I ordered the pan fried-frogs legs. I also ordered a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc while I waited.

The restaurant is divided into two sections. The front has more an afternoon cafe feel to it while the back is lined with linen covered seats and cushions on subtle beige and pale brown. Black and white photos of happy faces adorn the walls while a female singer delivers torch songs old and new in the background.

I’ve never been sure why some people say Frogs legs taste like chicken. I don’t think it does. It looks a little like tiny chicken drumsticks, but the meat is denser and has a slightly stronger, almost nutty flavour. These were basking in a sea of delicious, buttery, parsley sauce and topped with a small forest of salad.

Naturally I wanted more and could have easily dispatched another leg or two but I decided to wait patiently for my main course. For this I’d ordered white cod on polenta and French beans. The fish was firm and flakey as cod is supposed to be. The polenta, which is made from ground corn, was mixed with some whole kernels to add a little more texture.

Dessert was a choice of chocolate mousse and orange cappuccino. I went for the orange and rounded off with a fair trade coffee.

37/F Times Tower
393 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3741 1313

11/F Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3102 9363

7 Caroline Hill Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 9130

15/F Henry House
42 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 2414

Excelsior Hotel
281 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

?? Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

G/F, 26A Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 6096 5013

G/F 20 Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 4133
Fax 2887 6394

According to the place mat the restaurant takes it’s name from a recipe for the famous Vietnamese beef noodle broth that was popular at a railway station hawker stand. The old hawker never gave up his secret recipe but cafe locomotive have created their very own.

It seems to be popular too. On my previous trips to this area the Cafe Locomotive has always been packed. This time I got there early.

The decor boasts a railway theme with luggage racks and station clocks showing the time in several cities around Asia. The staff are friendly and efficient. I ordered a coconut base with jelly bits and ice and perused the menu. Most people were having the noodles and they did look very good but I had decided I wanted to try something different.

I started with roasted French quail ($48) this is served simply on a banana leaf with a slice of lime and an orchid (which I didn’t eat). It can sometimes be a bit of a fight to get the meat from the bones of small birds. The use of fingers is essential. The restaurant does provide disposable plastic gloves but that is cheating in my view and besides it makes the whole process seem rather surgical.

It was a tasty bird and it wasn’t long before all I had left was a neat pile of bones. The waitress enquired as to whether everything was to my satisfaction. I assured it was and she whisked my plate away.

The waiter had warned me that the quail would take around fifteen minutes to prepare. This meant that my next dish, big head prawn ($118) arrived almost as soon as the last one had been cleared away.

The prawns were baked in a rich, buttery garlic sauce. This too was most agreeable. The only downside was that flesh of the prawn seemed rather less that the shell had promised. But I guess that is prawns for you. You never do get as much as you think you’re going to get.

For vegetable I’d ordered morning glory in broth ($42). It turned out to be a considerably larger bowl than I had anticipated. I couldn’t finish it all though I made a valiant effort soaking up the broth with garlic bread.

The lemon creme brulee with cinnamon sugar French toast and ginger ice-cream ($39) proved to be an excellent finale but then I’m a sucker for ginger ice cream.

Cafe Locomotive is quite a small but very popular restaurant. If you’re making a special trip it’s worth calling ahead to make a reservation.

1/F The Excelsior
281 Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2837 6781

Park Lane Hotel
310 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2839 3311

Basement 3, Hennessy Centre
500 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2895 3505

1/F Regal Hong Kong Hotel
88 Yee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2837 1772

Cafe Tornado is a small casual little bistro amongst half a dozen or so restaurants on Caroline Hill Road in Causeway Bay. I spotted it a few weeks ago and decided to go back and give it a try.

Decor is simple, a bookshelf adds a homely feel to it and, because it is a small place, makes it feel quite cosy.

There are a few a la carte options but it is mostly set dinners, of which there are about six to choose from. They include a salad and soup of the day along with a main course. The prices range from $130-200.

For a $50 upgrade you can get a glass of house wine, a starter and a dessert. It all seemed very reasonable to me … but then I set the cat among the pigeons. I didn’t want the ordinary salad I rather fancied the smoked salmon with avocado salad ($80) from the a la carte menu. I assured the waitress I’d be willing to pay the extra.

She didn’t seem to certain but she agreed anyway and went off to deliver my order to the kitchen while I looked over the rest of the menu. It’s a curious mix of pasta dishes, some Japanese options and steak. It offers a good range of herbal teas and a range of coffees.

Presently the salad arrived, it was huge. The waitress said “Yes, this is the salmon and avocado … ” and then waving her finger vaguely around it she continued ” … and your set meal…” at which she beat a hasty retreat. Did she mean she has mixed the two salads together?

I decided not to pursue the matter. In actual fact all it entailed was extra foliage and it was crisp and fresh. I decided I would simply leave what I didn’t want.

That wouldn’t have been much at all had it not been for the arrival of my starter. There had been five or six items, all from the a la carte menu, that I could choose from. I had chosen the bacon and potato. It had a menu price of $53 and consisted of nice chunks of lean back bacon in a creamy sauce, very tasty indeed.

The soup of the day arrived shortly after. It turned out to be French onion soup. I can be quite picky about onion soup, this was served in a glass with a rather humdrum piece of toast on the side. But apart from the glass the soup’s only other crime was not having any cheese on top. The soup itself was rather good.

I’d ordered Roast Duck for the main course and this was a lovely piece. Tender and juicy with a delicious smoky flavour. It arrived on a mound of potatoes and garden vegetables.

I confess I was getting rather full but I had made a mental to order the home made lime yoghurt cheesecake from the menu for my dessert. Even if it did mean upsetting the waitress again. As it turned out they only had two desserts available; creme brulee and an Oreo and Baileys cheesecake. I plumped for the former.

The food here was very good and good value for money too. A little more organisation in the menu wouldn’t hurt and nor would a strategy for accommodating people who like to stray from the set menu.

13/F Food Forum
Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3102 9132
Fax 3102 9133

This is a family restaurant that has a slightly more interesting take on the concept of a pizza. I went along to the branch on the 13th floor of Times Square in Causeway Bay to try one.

Living up to its role as a family restaurant there were two young super-heroes zapping threatening looking chairs and tables with imaginary kill-o-beam zap guns or whatever the weapon of choice is these days. Suffice to say that had I been a malevolent piece of furniture it would have been splinters for me. I picked my table with care..

The restaurant is bright and spacious, the decor simple but functional. The waiter was at the table in no time brandishing the menu.

Pizza, of course, dominates the menu but it is by no means the only choice. There is also an interesting range of pastas and Focaccia sandwiches. It also offers a mouthwatering array of appetizers, soups and salads.

I ordered California shrimp rolls ($48). These are similar to the cold spring rolls found in Laos, Vietnam and parts of Thailand. The white noodle, carrots and bean sprouts remain the same but these were stuffed with flame-grilled shrimps which added a deliciously smokey twist to them. They were served chilled, with a dipping sauce of sesame and ginger.

There are no less than 25 different pizzas on the menu. All the familiar favourites are there; the Hawaiian, the pepperoni and mushroom and the basic cheese and tomato sauce. These cater for the more traditional tastes but it was the intriguing selection on non-conventional toppings and sauces that had caught my eye.

The Peking duck; roasted duck breast, shiitake mushrooms and crispy wontons with a ginger sauce. Then there was The Jamaican Jerk chicken with a spicy sweet Caribbean sauce and roasted red and yellow peppers. Roast potato and grilled chicken comes with a white wine and lemon garlic butter sauce.

I wanted to try them all but in the end I settled on a Carne Asada ($78). This is grilled steak with fire roasted chillies, Monterey jack and mozzarella cheeses and a cilantro (coriander) pesto. It was served with a delicious tomatillo salsa. There is only one size of pizza but it is easily big enough for two people to share, especially if you order a starter as well..

The service is prompt and friendly. I noted with satisfaction that the furniture had been vanquished and the two gentlemen that had saved the day had been rewarded with hot fudge brownies and were about to be taken home to bed.

Takeaway service is available and they will deliver to addresses within a kilometre of Times Square.

Excelsior Hotel
281 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2837 6780

I’d been down in the Dickens Bar having a swift pint with on old friend who was on whirlwind business trip. I admit I’d been half expecting that we would get into one of those ‘just like the old days’ marathon drinking sessions. But it was not to be. He managed to fit me in between his last meeting and his taxi to the airport.

I watched him bundle his suitcase into the back of the taxi. It was good to see the old rogue but I was secretly grateful that I wasn’t going to have one of those ‘just like the old days’ Wednesday morning hangovers. But, since I was here I might as well take advantage of the situation.

I turned about and headed back into the Excelsior Hotel and up to Cammino on the first floor. Cammino with it’s wooden shuttered windows and terra cotta tiling, is a little corner of Tuscany. The atmosphere is informal and the staff friendly, attentive and indeed prompt. A glass of fruity Primitivo di Puglia ($80 for a large one) was produced before I’d even made up my mind on a starter.

I’d narrowed the choices down to either the Antipasto Toscano which consisted of cured meats, goats cheese and marinated vegetables ($138) or the Forest Mushroom Ragout on a baked Portobello Mushroom ($108).

The cured meats won the day and I was treated to a selection of salami and parma ham and cheese served on an impressively large glass plate with salad, artichokes, sun-dried tomato and a generous slice of chilled rock melon.

The bread basket was also generous. Five different types served with roasted garlic, butter and balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

For a main course I ordered the oven roasted rack of lamb with herb garlic crust ($248). The dish was handsomely presented with creamed potato and a balsamic sauce. The lamb was tender and juicy and was again, a generous portion.

Two other items on the menu that were jostling for attention were the pan fried sole ($288) and the linguine with Boston lobster which can be ordered as a starter ($128) or as a main course ($188).

Personally I prefer to have pasta at lunchtime. If I eat pasta at dinner I often find I’m too full and lose interest in dessert.

This evenings dessert was the minted woodland berry compote with mascarpone cheese mouse. Although it is called a cheese it’s flavour is very creamy and is a perfect accompaniment for the tartness of the fruit.

I rounded off with a coffee. Leaning back I thought about my friend, he must be about queuing to board by now I guessed. I thought about what options he would have on his in-flight menu and would he go for the fish or the chicken.

1/F 5 Moreton Terrace
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 8383

Basement, Causeway Corner
18 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 6665

1/F 24-30 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 2969

23/F Continental Diamond Plaza
523-527 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 3699

2-8 Sugar Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2196 2196

22/F Henry House
42 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 6266

The Charterhouse
209-219 Wanchai Road
Causeway Bay
Tel 2833 9086

G/F 52 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2575 6322

Level 2, Rosedale on the Park
8 Shelter Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2127 8818

There has been quite a lot of talk about Cherry Garden and the other restaurants that are popping up around Tai Hang. Though most of them actually popped up a year or more ago. It’s also been suggested that the area could be the next restaurant district. Wun Sha Road where most of the restaurants are isn’t all that appealing, but the narrow roads and low rise buildings nearby certainly would have possibilities. At the moment, however, it is mostly auto repair shops.

Anyway, I’d heard good things about The Cherry Garden so I decided it was time to go and see for myself.

It’s a popular little place, I got there just after seven and it was already quite busy. There is a rather large lighting fixture but otherwise the decor is clean and simple. There are some Chinese style square tables and stools and some conventional rectangular tables. Some jazzy sounds were drifting from a loudspeaker somewhere but it wasn’t very loud.

The menu is European and fairly straightforward. There is a choice of steaks, lamb, chops and chicken. There are also pasta and pizza options as well as vegetarian choices. It struck me as being a pretty well balanced menu for all the family.

For starters I was hankering after some calamari ($34) but the potato skins ($28) were also tempting so in the end I ordered both. The skins came stuffed, one side with bacon and cheese the other side vegetables in a tomato sauce. Both dishes were garnished with a little jungle of salad greens.

For the main course I’d ordered the baby back ribs ($98). The menu warned of a thirty minute wait (hence the two starters) but it didn’t take anywhere near that long.

“We’re not that busy tonight,” the waiter assured me. I looked around and thought that there must be quite a lot of restaurants that would kill to be ‘not that busy’ on a Wednesday night.

The ribs were served with regulation fries. These were a little ordinary but the ribs themselves were perfectly acceptable. Again there was a little forest of green on the side but this time there were some peppers to add a little colour.

Now I have often said that a meal isn’t complete without dessert, and I have also often lamented that too many restaurants don’t make the effort to come up with interesting choices. But Cherry Garden really pull out an ace with their Earl Grey Pudding and Fresh Fruit Sabayon ($38).

The Sabayon (from the Italian zabaione) is a light airy sauce made from eggs, sugar and some kind of liquor poured over watermelon, pineapple and papaya. Green tea ice cream had never really excited me but the Earl Grey pudding was truly yummy.

I left and headed back towards Causeway Bay through the narrow streets. I could envision tables on the pavement, plants growing up walls. People spilling out onto street corners, drinks in hand, on balmy summer evenings. It would indeed make an excellent bar and restaurant district. But I couldn’t help thinking that if it did take off, it would attract the attention of some corporate behemoth who would wreck the place for everyone and put up some soulless concrete and glass tower.

8/F Universal House
230, Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2893 9996

G/F 10 Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 0668

B3 Mitsukoshi Department Store
Hennessy Centre
500 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 5222 x 287

4/F The Lee Gardens
33 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2907 2688
Fax 2907 2088

G/F Paliburg Plaza
68 Tee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Tel 2577 7886
Fax 2577 8835

1001 10/F Food Forum
Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 9128

Basement, The Lee Gardens
33 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2907 3399

Shop B224, Times Square
Matheson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 0080
Fax 2506 0212

17/F 525 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3907 0090

10-12, G/F Sunning Plaza
10 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 8013

G/F 19B Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 6500
Fax 2890 6140

Shop 4, G/F Lee Gardens Two
28 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Tel 2882 7726

G/F 21 Sharp Street East
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2187 3993

16-17/F L’Hart, 487 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 6100

G/F 451 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 8851

1/F JIA Boutique Hotel
1-5 Irving Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 6628

Shop 14, G/F Sunning Plaza
10 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 9119

38/F Times Tower
393 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2861 1666

G/F Florida Mansion
9-11 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2511 0300
Fax 2511 0326

2/F Plaza 2000
2, Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 3255

During the 4th-6th centuries the Hakka people, who originated in northern China were forced south by a combination of wars and natural disasters. They eventually settled throughout Southern China, living in houses that could hold up to a hundred families. The houses were made from rammed earth on a bamboo frame and many are still being used today. Eryi Tulou (or tower) is one of a group of these buildings in western Fujian province.

The restaurant of the same name is in a rather soulless building on Gloucester Road, and a bit out of the way if you are coming by MTR. We arrived just after 9pm on a Tuesday, and the large restaurant was about half full. The interior is dark, but modern and simple. There are pictures of the rounded Hakka homes along one wall, and a row of the traditional black-shaded hats used as lightshades.

The main menu consists of a lot of more traditional Hakka dishes, such as fried pigs belly with salt, traditional stuffed beancurd, or stewed meat with preserved sour vegetables. There are several varieties of sharks fin, and a selection of standard dishes like scallops with brocolli and deep fried spare-ribs. There are daily specials hung on the large pillars (unfortunately for us monolinguists, only in Chinese)

We were pleased to discover that we could buy Tsingtao beer for $14 for two bottles, so decided to ignore the Hakka sticky rice wine and lychee wine, which at only $40 a bottle were both tempting. We asked for sweet potato congee, but they had sold out - a bit disappointing, but at least it lets you know the food is fresh. We tried a bowl of the sticky rice with sweet potato instead.

There is a page of chef’s recommendations for river fish which you can request cooked in 10 different ways. We wanted the eel cooked with chinese olives - but this was also sold out. However, there was another eel dish, Dongjiang stewed eel in pot - a soup with large pieces of tender eel, salty vegetables and tofu, which we all agreed was wonderful.

We also requested the Xingning whole duck (only $128) - guess what? sold out! Our waiter recommended we try the chicken in yellow sticky rice wine, which was on the daily special menu, and we were very glad we did. A huge steaming bowl of buttery, alcoholic sauce with chicken and jujubes (Chinese dates) and ginger arrived. It was exceptionally good.

The total bill was only $240 for three people. After the initial irritations of ordering, this restaurant really came up trumps with the alternative dishes that were recommended to us. So our advice to you is, don’t arrive knowing what you want to eat, but listen to your waiter. Also, if the rest of the menu is as good as the few dishes we had, then you’ll want to bring more people in order to try more of it!

One last point about the Hakka houses. In the 1980s, US spy satellites spotted them and US ‘intelligence’ believed the Chinese had built hundreds of nuclear missile silos! Now UNESCO is considering placing several on the World Heritage cultural properties list.

27/F Bartlock Centre
3 Yiu Wah Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2893 2080

1/F-2/F AIA Plaza
18 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 1331

Shop 102, 1/F Elizabeth House
Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2574 6263

G/F 59-65 Paterson St
Fashion Walk
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2367 2710

485 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2869 8282

5/F Island Beverley
1 Great George Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 2898
Fax 2890 1068

1/F 68 Yee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 4228

G/F Ming An Plaza Phase 2
8 Sunning Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2185 7477
Fax 2185 7476

8/F Goldmark
502 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 1386

G/F 8 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 6128

G/F The Park Lane
310 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2839 3377

1/F 20-22 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2575 7128 or 6010 8128

4/F Island Beverley
1 Great George Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 6268

Given my aversion to shopping this is the kind of place that I could easily miss. Indeed, had missed until I was asked if I’d eaten there, and what I thought of it.

The restaurant is tucked away on the second floor of the Goods Of Desire shop overlooking Leighton Road in Causeway Bay. It’s not a fancy place, it’s exactly the kind of place you might want after a hectic afternoon shopping.

The decor is simple but functional. Some of the tables have nice sofas on which to lounge and the red Chinese lanterns that hang from the ceiling are a pleasing touch.

It is quite busy though there are still unoccupied tables. Most of the other guests appeared to be young couples taking a break from the melee in the shops and one group of office girls who seem to be celebrating something.

The menu offers an intriguing selection of international dishes. The starters alone tempted me with satays, Vietnamese style spring rolls, deep fried camembert with cranberry sauce. I was torn between potato skins ($28) and some thing called ‘Slim+Fit’ which consisted of sauteed spinach and garlic.

Good sense told me I should go for the healthy option but right at the last moment indulgence prevailed. I knew I was going to enjoy the potato skins. Indeed potato skins are pretty hard to hurt. All you need is a dollop of melted cheese, some sour cream to dip them in and a sprinkle each of bacon bits and chives. And for the price I thought they were excellent value for money too.

The menu also offers a wide range of shakes, smoothies and other drinks. I ordered a banana strawberry shake ($38).

For main course I had a dish called ‘In bed with Pumpkin’ ($88). This included a salmon steak served with home made pumpkin mash vegetables and dill sauce.

I was pleased with the choice, it had been a tough call between that and the fish and chips with beer batter. For people who might want something lighter Home Cooking also serves Vietnamese, Malaysian and Japanese noodle dishes.

For dessert I opted for the ginger pudding with ginger Ice cream ($48) and rounded off with a coffee.

This is a neat little eatery, decent food and reasonably priced. And you can do all your shopping on the way out!

G/F 11 Caroline Hill Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 5598

11/F Food Forum
Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 1028