Eat Drink Hong Kong

Lobby Level
Royal Park Hotel
8 Pak Hok Ting Street
Shatin
New Territories
Tel 2694 3869

9 Star Street,
Wanchai,
Hong Kong
Tel 2529 2300

12&13/F Langham Place,
8 Argyle Street,
Mongkok,
Kowloon
Tel 3514 9288

Seng Tau Village,
Shap Sze Heung
off Sai Sha Road
Sai Kung,
NT
Tel: 2791 2684        French

Level 3, Royal Park Hotel
8 Pak Hok Ting Street
Shatin
New Territories
Tel 2694 3886

2121
UG/F 21 D’Aguilar Street,
Central,
Hong Kong
Tel: 2804 6669

Shop 3, 1-5 Elgin Street
Soho,
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2559 2777

Shop 134 Sun Hung Kai Centre
Harbour Road
Wanchai
Tel 2802 9348

30-32 O’ Brien Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 8611

Shop F-G, 18 Jupiter Street
North Point
Hong Kong
Tel 2807 1386

Shop4, 2a Hart Avenue
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2723 7633

Shop 5 UG/F Olympian City 2
18 Hoi Ting Road
West Kowloon
Tel 2273 4688

6/F Canarvon Plaza
20 Canarvon Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2152 0375

65 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2804 6333
Fax 284 6833

An odd name, even by the odd naming conventions of pubs. There are two branches, one in Tsim Sha Tsui and another in Times Square, Causeway Bay. I went along to the latter the other evening.

The ‘gastropub’, as 798 Unit & Co describe themselves is mostly reminiscent of a medieval beer hall. Nothing particularly odd about that, indeed the larger tables in the middle that are common in such beer halls are perfectly suited to Hong Kong peoples love of dining together in large groups.

What was a bit strange were the hacienda-like arches along one side and the distinctly Mediterranean menu. I’d already ordered a Murphy’s Stout and was searching the menu for something that might go with it. In the end I gave up thinking I could gulp the beer down while I was waiting for the food to arrive and then order a glass of wine.

I was wrong. I ordered two tapas, both of which arrived with a promptness and efficiency that was that was really quite impressive. I looked towards the kitchen with admiration. The kitchen is actually visible through the back wall. The bright reassuring cleanliness of the modern facility contrasts with both the beer hall and the hacienda.

The tapas were wasabi beef ($80) and grilled octopus with chorizo, roast tomato and onions ($68). Both were very good. The only criticism I would level would be at the octopus and chorizo and that was because there was substantially more octopus and whilst I do like it, I like chorizo equally.

The menu boasts all the regulation pizzas and pastas and delicious though they probably are, I figured that would be a mistake after two largish tapas. I’d already consulted with the waitress. We’d concluded that the Murphy’s would go well with a steak and we could probably get away with a pizza. But, if we left beer out of the equation than we both agreed that the salmon filet with parsley crust in a fish broth with tomato and olives ($108) would be ideal.

She assured me it was one of the lighter entrees on the menu and would leave me with ample room for dessert. It was delicious too. The soup had a pleasant sharpness to it that complemented the fish. I imagined it would probably do alright with a hint of jalapeño added to it.

I mopped up the last of the soup with the remains of the crusty bread that had been served when I arrived. And turned my attention to the stout. It had lost it’s ‘just out of the fridge’ chill which is actually beneficial for a stout. I spent a leisurely ten or fifteen minutes enjoying that and watching people arrive.

It was mostly an after office crowd while I was there and whilst it wasn’t full I doubt there would be too many complaints from the management. I guessed that by 8.30pm you would be lucky to get a table without a prior reservation.

All the dishes on the dessert menu are tried and trusted favourites. I ordered the brownies with banana fudge gelato ($42) and a coffee.

Nobody seemed all that fazed by the contrasting styles of the restaurant. I suspect I’m one of the few people around that actually notices these things. But it doesn’t really worry me, how can it when I am going to step out and straight back in to a bustling shopping mall?

1/F, 9 Hau Fook Street
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2366 0234

Shop 1203, 12/F Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 0611

G/F Observatory Court
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2316 2133

Room 101 Tak Woo House
1-3 Wo On Lane
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2522 3437

Shop 5 G/F Union Mansion
33-35 Chatham Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2391 7386

25/F Morecrown Commercial Building
108 Electric Road
Tin Hau
Hong Kong
Tel 2234 6628

LG/F 11 Lyndhurst Terrace
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2815 0022
Fax 2815 9333

1/F 68 Wing L, ok Street
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 3528 7553

Adagio is a neat little cafe on Wing Lok Street offering western style food in simple but functional surroundings. It’s on the first floor above a flower shop, I got a table by the window where I was able to sit and look down at other people hurrying about.

I don’t know what it is, but there is something therapeutic about watching others hurry about while you are sitting waiting for a nice plate of food. I figured I’d better consult the menu and order something to wait for.

There is a set dinner menu offering four choices ranging in price from $158 to $198. But it was the smaller snack-sized dishes that caught my eye. I asked the waitress about how big these dishes were, she made a rectangular shape with her thumbs and index fingers. “Not too big then?” I asked. “Not too big.” She confirmed.

Thinking they would probably be about the size of an average tapas I ordered four. Mixed mushrooms with butter and cream ($26), baked broccoli with bacon and cheese ($26), Deep fried salmon nuggets ($32) and roast tiger prawn with beef tenderloin skewers ($42).

The mushrooms were the first to arrive and my eyes nearly popped out of my head. By adding a small serving of pasta there would have been enough for a hearty meal on it’s own. And it was very tasty indeed, with at least four types of mushroom.

Hot on it’s heels was the broccoli, again another generous serving. It began to dawn on me what a great place this would be to come for lunch with office mates. The food is simple but tasty and great value.

I hadn’t got far into the broccoli when the salmon nuggets turned up. Four golf ball-sized cakes of minced salmon deep-fried in bread crumbs and served with French fries. These were the crinkle cut variety and for once I didn’t mind. I had way more food than I could possibly eat so it was easy just to leave the fries.

The tiger prawns and beef were interspersed with peppers and tomatoes. This was the last dish to arrive and were my favourite of the lot and I managed to polish off both skewers. To the other dishes I made a commendable effort but I was determined to save just a little space for apple crumble with Ice cream ($30).

It was blisteringly hot when it came and I had to let it cool for a few moments. It will never replace mum’s apple crumble in my affections but it did round the evenings meal off adequately.

The food was good and excellent value, the staff were cheerful and attentive. What more could you ask for?

31/F Times Tower
393 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2891 1131

2/F & 3/F Pavilion Stand
Hong Kong Jockey Club
Happy Valley Racecourse
Hong Kong
Tel 3690 3690

3/F Wing Lok Building
14A Peking Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
(entrance in Lock Road)
Kowloon
Tel 2367 7489

Lovers of top notch, value for money, curries have always made a beeline for Chungking Mansions. A favourite of mine, when I arrived in Hong Kong as a fresh faced backpacker in the early eighties, was buried so far in that even the rats and roaches went around in pairs. The reward was an excellent curry that even backpackers had to agree was very reasonably priced.

But for some folks the very thought of Chungking Mansions is enough to put them off their dinner. Luckily, there are alternatives. One of these is Afghan Canteen, a small Indian (halal) restaurant that has inhabited the third floor above the Red Lips bar for over 16 years. The entrance is just around the corner on Lock Road. There are two small lifts which take people, two at a time, up to the third floor. There were four of us.

After the lift, the restaurant itself seems quite spacious. The decor was simple and the staff friendly. The restaurant wasn’t crowded and we were quickly shown to a table and menus were produced.

I’ve always maintained that beer and curry is a marriage made in heaven, the rest of the party seemed to agree and four cold Cobras were ordered and promptly delivered. We settled down to discuss the menu.

The were no big surprises, all our favourite dishes were represented. To get the ball rolling we sent the waiter off for some starters; Onion bhaji ($24), Samosas ($20), and Chicken chat ($24). The bhaji and the samosa were both excellent the chat, whilst not being particularly bad, didn’t really hold it’s own alongside the other two.

Nevertheless we made short work of it all and soon we were putting in our orders for the main dishes. Chicken Afghan ($60) was the house speciality so we felt duty-bound to order that. To go with it we ordered Baingan Bharta ($48), Rogan Josh ($60), Palak Paneer ($48) and Boti Kebab ($72).

Boti kebabs are chunks of tandoori lamb and are an excellent alternative to the ever popular chicken tikka (which is also available). The chicken Afghan was a mild, creamy curry and quite delicious. The rogan josh was also quite mild which is unusual for a rogan josh. These are usually on the spicy side and a bit oily but this adaptation was mild and buttery. It was a very pleasant dish indeed, but if you are a stickler for tradition it would probably raise the eyebrows a little.

The Palak paneer and Baingan bharta both lived up to expectation and we scooped them up enthusiastically with with plain and garlic nan.

Dessert would have been gulab jamun and kulfi but by the time we got there we were all quite full. Instead we finished our beers slowly, brought peace to the world and abolished natural disasters forever before emerging into the frantic neon of Tsim Sha Tsui. An explosion of light and noise that would also underscore a curry trip to Chungking Mansions.

33 D’Aguilar Street
Lan Kwai Fong
Hong Kong
Tel 2521 2010
Fax 2521 2098

G/F Beverley House
93-107 Lockhart Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2866 3228
Fax 2866 3229

Tequila is to mescal what Champagne is to sparkling wine. What distinguishes Tequila is that it is made from the blue agave plant which is found only in the Tequila region of western Mexico. We were sitting in a restaurant/bar called Agave in Lockhart Road, half a world away from western Mexico, staring at a drinks list that offered a bewildering selection of Tequila based drinks.

“Tequila Macho”, said my companion, “seventy-five bucks, a tequila blanco with white rum, dark rum and then some stuff like wimpy orange, pineapple and lime.”
“Are you having one?”, I asked.
“No, no , no,” she replied. “I’m going to have a Heart of Fire ($70), Tequila blanco, peach schnapps, sparkling wine and a slice of orange. What are you having?”

I returned my attention to the menu while my companion ordered a plate of nachos gringos ($83), tortilla chips with cheddar cheese salsa and a huge dollop of sour cream. “Margarita I think, El Toro Loco ($70),” which translates as ‘crazy bull’. It is made with Tequila blanco, absinthe, Red Bull and a dash of lime.

I was planning on ordering another starter but the waitress talked me out of it, insisting that the nachos were large enough for two. I took her word for it - I do have a tendency to over order sometimes.

The music was quite loud but not so loud that we couldn’t talk and whilst I would hesitate to say it was latin music, it did have a distinct party feel. The decor had a very tropical latin feel, yellow painted walls with painted red beams across the ceiling.

Combine with intricate light fittings and other ornamentations along with a ceramic tiled bar, and the plate of nachos gringos, and the effect is complete. It was a big plate but I wasn’t convinced that I couldn’t have managed another starter. Nevertheless, I let it slide and we dove into the nachos.

For the main event my companion had ordered the grilled fillet steak ($180) topped with chipotle sauce, oaxaca cheese and cilantro (coriander). For those of you that don’t already know, a chipotle is a smoked jalapeno chili pepper. It is believed the practice of smoking them goes back to even before the Aztec civilisation and that it came about because the thick fleshy peppers were hard to dry properly and tended to go mouldy. Smoked, they can be kept for quite a long time.

I did sneak a taste of the sauce and it was still quite tangy, not too spicy and altogether rather delicious. I would have been envious but I had a bowl of Camarones al Diabla ($160), or sauteed prawns in devil sauce. It had three little chilis next to it on the menu suggesting that it was going to be very spicy indeed.

It was quite spicy but not so much that it would challenge a seasoned chili aficionado. But I was impressed with how the flavour of the habaneros had been brought out without threatening to take the roof of my head off. Both dishes were served with Mexican rice and refried beans.

The waitress enquired if we still wanted the other starter or if we would prefer a dessert. We plumped for dessert. I could have eaten the starter but my companion was beat. Well almost. Any hopes I may have harboured for keeping the crepes with caramel sauce all to myself were very quickly dashed, “That’s so yummy” she said.

The waitress wondered if I’d like another Toro Loco. I was tempted but I knew that if I did I would soon be looking for a sombrero to wear and a sturdy table to dance on.

Stepping off of Leighton Road and into Agnes B is like stepping into a little corner of Paris. Or rather the Paris of a bygone era. It’s hard not to be impressed by the decor. From vintage style floor tiles and the panelling on the walls to the brass light fittings and antique clock.

Dark wooden furnishings set with crisp white table linen complete the scene whilst net curtains hung from a brass rail at half window height blocks Leighton Road from view. The attention to detail is meticulous.

The only thing to give the game away is the very modern background music.

I took a table in the corner from where I could see the whole restaurant. It was still early so there were not too many customers yet, the waiter brought me a menu and then showed me the daily blackboard. The blackboard options were interesting but I decided to stay with the main menu.

They were about to introduce a whole new wine menu a day or two after I was there so the only wine they had left that I could order by the glass was a red. I didn’t catch the name, I’m a bit of a slacker when it comes to wine, but it was very agreeable.

I already knew that I wanted French onion soup ($58). I’m not a huge fan of soups generally. I like them well enough but I tend to think that a soup course is often more than I really need. But I make an exception for French onion soup. The dish is a firm favourite of mine and a good one will always be rewarded with repeat custom.

But before that I had ordered a dish called Gravadlax ($98). This is dill-cured salmon served with a sweet mustard sauce and a light salad. I’d thought some rye or brown bread might be served with it but it was not forthcoming. Not to worry, I still had some in the bread basked that had arrived when I sat down.

The onion soup came next and it was all I could have hoped for. I tried to take it slowly and savour it but I’m afraid I failed and before long I was mopping out the bottom of the red ceramic dish in which it was served with the remains of the bread basket.

I celebrated its departure with a large draft of wine and listened to the music. It was completely out of context with the surroundings but it was a pleasing contrast. It was a fairly laid back sound, gentle but not spineless.

My listening was interrupted by the grilled rack of lamb ($258) that I had ordered. Three meaty cutlets served with potatoes and another salad. It was good but I did feel the lamb deserved a little something more than just a salad. Asparagus perhaps, some carrot or green peas. It didn’t worry me all that much and to be honest if I had not already had salad with the gravadlax it probably would have bothered me at all.

For dessert I chose pear with raspberries, strawberries and black currant. All served with a scoop of home made vanilla ice cream ($68). Delicious.

I rounded off with a coffee and sat listening to the music for a while. It was a good meal in a very pleasant environment. But it is the French onion soup that will keep bringing me back.

Shop 1, Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 2718

13/F Henry House
42 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 2928

19/F Soho Square
21 Lyndhurst Terrace
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2123 9163
Fax 2815 9165

19/F Soho Square
21 Lyndhurst Terrace
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2123 9163
Fax 2815 9165

Regal Riverside Hotel
34-36 Tai Chung Kiu Road
Shatin
New Territories
Tel 2649 7878

Shop GB 18-20 Yat Wah Mansion
45, Tai Hong Streed
Lei King Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2539 0098
Fax 2539 7638

Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

7/F Circle Tower
28 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 0671

2/F 49 Hollywood Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2541 1599

I bumped into an old colleague at a function a few weeks back. It was a bit of a surprise for both of us I think but a pleasant one nonetheless. We decided we really must keep in touch and, to seal our vows, went out to dinner.

She suggested we go over to Observatory Court which I thought was a splendid idea. I’m a bit slack at getting over the other side of the harbour, I have to admit. After snooping around a while we decided to go for teppanyaki at Akita.

Akita is on the first floor and stepping out of the lift, we found ourselves in a surprisingly spacious restaurant decorated in a mock traditional Japanese market style. In front of us were counters displaying fresh seafood and vegetables. To the right was a robotayaki dining area. We hung a left to the teppanyaki area.

Teppanyaki derives it’s name from the hot iron plate, called a teppan, on which the food is cooked. But with teppanyakai you don’t just get dinner, you get a show. We decided on the Hokkaido Teppanyaki Set performance at $498 for two people. We also ordered a bottle of cold dry sake. It was a rather a nice sake but I don’t remember what it was called - leading me to suspect I may have consumed more than my fair share.

The performance, of course, is watching the chef prepare the food. Ours was not only an excellent chef but a good entertainer, twirling pepper mills and cooking utensils with as much aplomb as any cocktail waiter.

We started with a light salad with crab while the chef topped and tailed two jumbo prawns. He set the heads aside for later. The prawns were firm and tasty. “Buttery”, said my friend. I had to agree, but I didn’t think that was a bad thing.

The hint of butter was prevalent throughout the whole meal but it never became overbearing.

The prawns were followed by scallop and geoduck clam dishes. The clam is actually pronounced “gooey duck” but is also called elephant trunk clam and has the distinction of being the largest burrowing clam in the world. It’s also said to be something of an aphrodisiac, possibly due to its phallic shape and the fact that the female produces something like 5 billion viable eggs during her lifespan. They are also an excellent accompaniment for sake.

By now the chef had turned his attention to the Angus beef steak. This was going to be served with a generous amount of fried garlic. While we watched, a bowl of lobster miso soup was served. After the steak we had fresh garden vegetables. The prawn heads were then pressed and cooked until crisp, and then finally, the Akita special fried rice. The fried rice was unusual in that it is cooked with bacon and ground beef, and was really rather nice.

By this time we were both feeling replete but I always feel that the meal is not complete without dessert. That said, in Japanese set meals the dessert is usually ice cream and I wondered if I could cheat. In the end I’m glad I didn’t because the ice cream flavour was sesame and tofu which I had never had before and was most enjoyable.

Afterwards we snooped around Observatory Court some more before clambering into our respective taxis vowing to do it all again soon.

8 Observatory Court
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2316 2727

G/F 88 Electric Road
Tin Hau
Hong Kong
Tel 2508 0122

Shop B 2/F Hennessy Apartment
48 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 8234

G/F 16 Staunton Street
Soho
Hong Kong
Tel 2869 5463
Tel 2147 9689

G/F 153 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2122 9795

I found a branch of Al Dente I didn’t know about the other day. This one is on Jaffe Road in Wanchai. I must admit, it’s not really the kind of place where I would have gone looking for a nice little ‘hole in the wall’ type Italian restaurant. It’s on the unfashionable part of the road beyond the bridge that leads to Central Plaza and the immigration department.

As I was walking by I caught what sounded suspiciously like the ivory tickling of Art Tatum. Before I knew what had happened I was sitting there with a glass of red wine in one hand, a menu in the other and some truly nifty piano playing wafting through the air.

It really is quite a small place, long and narrow with seating for no more than about 30 people. It was not too full when I arrived but several of the tables had been pushed together in preparation for what looked like a group of 12-14. The table by the door also had a large reserved sign on it. This was the middle of the week and I was beginning to feel decidedly lucky to have got a table without making a reservation first.

For starters I ordered the Fungi Ala Griglia ($79). This consisted of two plump portobello mushrooms, char grilled and topped with goats cheese, and served on a bed of lettuce and arugula with tomatoes. I love these mushrooms and the char grilling really brought out the rich earthy flavour. I was most impressed.

So impressed that I hadn’t noticed the Art Tatum CD had finished and been replaced with what sounded suspiciously like Kenny G.

It wasn’t long before the main course arrived. I had originally ordered a veal dish but veal had been unavailable on this particular evening. The waiter, instead, offered me a variation made with fillet of chicken ($149).

The chicken was layered with spinach, sage, cheese and proscuitto, served on a bed of creamed potato with a truffle and mushroom sauce. This, I decided, was a very happy alternative to the veal.

By now the restaurant had filled up and there were still people arriving, hoping to get a table. I ordered a mixed berry crumble with ice cream ($48) for dessert.

I was feeling quite full - all the servings had been generous, and would be perfect for sharing. Which is just what the diners on the adjacent table table were doing and I couldn’t help but smile knowingly as they admired their newly arrived portobello mushrooms.

I paid my bill and, much to the relief of the hungry faces outside, went off in search of Delaneys and a pint of Kilkenny for the road.

G/F 97 Wellington Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2736 6041

G/F, 96 Kimberley Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 6333 7911

The poet John William Burgon once described Petra, with its rock-cut architecture, as “a rose-red city half as old as time.” But the world heritage site in southern Jordan wasn’t known to the west until 1812, when it was discovered by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt.

I discovered Al Petra Restaurant on Wellington Street just before Christmas. That visit had been with a dear friend and was purely for fun but I was impressed enough to want to go back and have another look.

It’s a narrow doorway on the right just past the escalator as you make your way down the hill towards Sheung Wan. Quite easy to miss. There is a small bar area on the ground floor but the restaurant proper is in the basement.

The walls are painted in dusty yellows and ochre to evoke the sandstone walls of its historical namesake. These are decorated with an assortment of shields, swords and other items. The ceiling is hung with a sumptuous looking red cloth and dotted with lamps. It all helps to make what would be a comparatively large dining area feel rather cosy.

The menu is quite big and covers most of the table. Being alone this time I didn’t have to worry about knocking the candle into my companions lap so I spread it out and had a good read.

There is a wide selection of mezz, both hot and cold. Familiar dishes such as hummus and babaganouj are all in attendance. I’d enjoyed some of these on my first visit. This time I decided to start with Warak Enab ($75). These are little parcels of lightly spiced rice wrapped in vine leaves and marinated in olive oil with tomato, mint and other herbs.

They were very good, and I idled over them while reading the brochures from the Jordanian tourist office that had been placed on a small table a short reach from where I was sitting. Consequently the main course, when it arrived, caught me by surprise.

This, the menu assured me, was a traditional Bedouin dish and the national dish of Jordan. It’s called Mensaf ($250). It’s usually served on special occasions and shared between family or friends.

It consists of lamb braised in jameed. Jameed is a salted goats milk yoghurt and it made the lamb very tender indeed. it is served with fragrant Arabic spiced rice on pitta bread and garnished with pine nuts and almond. It comes with a tangy sauce which is poured all over.

Traditionally, it would be eaten with the right hand instead of utensils. I did think about this for a few moments but decided the probability of rice and jameed falling down my sleeve was very high and I should, perhaps, hone my skills in private before trying it in a public place.

Baclava was the only desert option. I wasn’t really in the mood for that so I decided to finish with an Arabic coffee. This is a very strong coffee indeed - if you’re planning an early night you might want to give it a miss. I found myself Googling tourist information on Jordan well into the small hours.

G/F Shop F, 27-39 D’Aguilar Street
Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2521 8714
Fax 2537 8290

2/F Fu Hing House
60 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 0250

G/F 55 Peel Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2975 9788 or 2180 8855

1-3/F, 37 Staunton Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2975 9722

15 Yuen Yuen Street
Happy Valley
Hong Kong
Tel 2575 1322

G/F 36 Elgin Street
Soho
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 1007
Fax 2770 8020

4/F Ho Lee Commercial Building
38-44 D’Aguilar Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2104 7200

9 Knutsford Terrace
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2367 9487

2 Princes Terrace
Mid Levels
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3100 6379

62-64b Peel Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3521 1291

79 Bonham Strand
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2827 8277

LG/ F 132, Festival Walk
Kowloon Tong
Kowloon
Tel 2265 8828 or 2845 4600

LG/ F 132, Festival Walk
Kowloon Tong
Kowloon
Tel 2265 8828 or 2845 4600

Landmark Mandarin Oriental
The Landmark
15 Queen’s Road Central
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2132 0066

20 Lockhart Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2527 7277

Friends who’ve been away from Chinese food for almost a year called and almost begged me to eat Peking Duck with them while they were visiting Hong Kong.

Without even mentioning a name, we all pretty much immediately knew where we would be going… The American Restaurant (of course!). Despite its rather suspicious name, all of us had eaten there before, and it is famous for its Peking Duck.

So, early Tuesday evening, a table of 6 adults and one lively 2 year old descended upon the little old men that serve in the place. They cleverly put us in a corner so the 2 year old would be nicely trapped. Its a medium sized restaurant - maybe 10 large tables, and kind of old fashioned, with light wood panelling surrounding large mirrors on all the walls.

When we arrived we were the second table filled, but the place soon filled up and the noise rose to dim-sum levels.

Once at the table, I took a quick, rather alarming glance at the menu - the first item was Sharks fin soup at $1380 for a medium serving and $2160 for a large. Beggars’ chicken, which I would have loved, needed to be ordered in advance, so that was out.

Then I remembered that as I’d come through the entrance I’d noticed a faded sign on the wall for set dinners, and it had seemed like a good deal, including pretty much everything we’d be likely to order. I asked for the set and our waiter looked very confused for a moment and then said ‘Oh, but thats only for the small tables upstairs’.

‘But it’s a menu for 6 and we ARE 6 (and a half)’ I replied. He didn’t seem eager, but eventually he wandered back with a faxed copy of the set dinner menu for us, which we promptly ordered.

First up came quite a strong-tasting soup, with chicken, noodles and elephant ear fungus. A huge pile of minced pigeon came next, with fresh lettuce leaves and oyster sauce to wrap around.

The green onion cakes were a little oily, and not too popular at our table. However, following them was Ôkun pao’ prawns which were delicious - soft, plump, and both sweet and slightly spicy.

At last the duck appeared - we didn’t get a whole duck with the set, but it was large, and there was plenty to go around. There’s not a great deal to say about it. Peking duck is yummy, popular, and American Restaurant is famous for doing it right - thin pancakes, sweet sauce, crispy skin - perfect. (Oh, okay I’ll give a niggle! I wished there was more in the way of scallion, and that the cucumber had been cut a little thinner than finger-width.)

Having forgotten what was on the menu, we were surprised when more food started arriving. Sizzling beef with ginger and green onions looks impressive, with a huge cloud of steam rising from the platter (actually we were also impressed by the way the waiter handled what must have been an incredibly hot metal lid), but the beef was a little too gristly for our table. Cashew nuts with chicken came last - I believe it said chicken and cashew nuts on the menu, but was hard pressed to find much meat. The sweet, sticky nuts were pretty much good enough on their own though, and by now, everyone was pretty full.

Just as we were about to ask for the bill, the waiter suddenly reappeared with a bowl of iced water. Oh! dessert! Out came a plate with a selection of cooked apple, pear and banana pieces, covered in hot, runny toffee with sesame seeds. These were then dipped in the ice water and passed around. Absolutely delicious.

All this came to only $1261, with a couple of soft drinks, and many tea refills. For a place with such a good reputation, thats’s been around just about forever, and that is popular with the tourists, I think that’s a brilliant deal.

1/F 83 Lockhart Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Wanchai
Tel 2866 1918

G/F 79a Wong Nai Chung Road
Happy Valley
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 2202

1/F Bo Fung Building
32-34 Haiphong Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2375 7556
Fax 2992 0511

G/F 40 Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong

G/F 40 Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2522 8322
Fax 2522 8322

126 Stanley Main Street
Stanley
Hong Kong
Tel 2813 9090

Kowloon Shangri-La
64 Mody Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2733 8901

59 Staunton Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2857 2966

4/F California Entertainment Building
34-36 D’Aguilar Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2877 9779
Fax 2523 0479

38 Wanchai Road,
Wanchai,
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 0881

The phone rang, it was my lunch date: “We’re going to Another One but I’m stuck in traffic and will be a bit late, you’ll have to go and grab a table - it’ll get crowded.”
“OK”, I replied, “where are we going?”
“We’re going to Another One,” insisted my date.
“Yes, yes” I said, “but which other one?”
“No, NO”, she shrieked , “the restaurant is CALLED Another One, it’s at 38 Wanchai Road, ground floor.”

In my defence, I should like to point out that I was on Hennessy Road, it was noisy, crowded and hot - and Another One was not the kind of name I was expecting for what had been promised as an exceptionally good Shanghainese restaurant.

It’s an easy one to miss too. Look for the photos of local celebrities in the window. I got there at about 12.45, there were not so many people then, but by 12.55 the place was definitely crowded.

I still had a few minutes to wait so I perused the menu which, conveniently, has English translations. The translations for the most part are perfectly understandable if sometimes a little bit literal. There are one or two however that seem to be on a higher astral plain altogether, such that I almost began to wonder if I hadn’t picked up a volume of beat poetry by mistake. After all what self-respecting Allen Ginsberg fan could turn their nose up at “The dish meat cloud swallows the hand pulled noodles” or “The pig of Zencheng stews pancakes”, so when my companion finally arrived she found me with a big grin on my face and wondering if “Fry the ferry crossing clearly white” contained any interesting mushrooms.

My companion frowned, she clearly had the upper hand linguistically and was soon in consultation with the waiter. The first result of which was a plate of rather wonderful spicy wontons. This was followed by a plate of steamed crab meat dumplings that quite simply took the breath away. The dumplings are sealed containers with the crab meat suspended in a light broth inside the dumpling. When you pop it into your mouth and bite, a little tsunami of taste floods the palette.

The steamed pork buns were also notable. Six of them are somehow steamed together in a shallow pool of rice water which solidifies and joins them together with a thin membrane of rice paper. The buns are exceptionally light and fluffy and the pork hidden within is succulent and juicy.

The “hand pulled” noodles are actually fresh noodles rolled on the premises. They are quite a revelation if you have never had fresh noodles before, being quite firm but also springy. Ours were served in a pork flavoured broth with tender chops that had been deep fried in a light batter. To go with them we also had sliced cucumber with garlic.

They also have a range of desserts but we were already so full we decided to save them for another day.

By 2pm the lunchtime rush had subsided and we were almost alone in the restaurant. The prices range from around $20 to $50 per dish, though there are more expensive ones, including sharks fin. For a quick lunch, Another One is excellent value for money. It also stays open all afternoon, so If you want to avoid the busy hour go after 2pm. If you’re really hungry and can’t wait, get there early.

1A 14 Wo On Lane
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3105 2936

G/F 1826B Po Tung Road
Sai Kung
New Territories

Tel 2792 8474 or 2792 8444

11-12 Tonochy Tower
254-272 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2877 7030

1/F Walden Hotel
353 Hennessy Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 3678 3978

Shop A, G/F Kowloon centre
Ashley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2148 3188
Fax 2259 9090

1/F Dragon Rise
9-11 Pennington Street
Causeway Bay
Tel 2576 5684

Well it’s not actually in a tent, it’s on the first floor of Koon Fook Centre at 9 Knutsford Terrace. It’s also quite easy to miss if you are walking from the Knutsford Steps end of the lane. If you approach from Observatory Road you’ll see a large advert hanging by the entrance just next door to the Whale Pub.

I have fond, though admittedly fuzzy, memories of tent bars in South Korea. The ones that I have been in were out in the provinces. Once they had got over the shock of a foreigner sticking his head round the flap they were all very friendly and welcoming and, despite not knowing what I was eating or drinking - and not understanding anything that was being said to me, I generally had a good old time.

It was in a tent bar that I discovered kimchi and beer was a marriage made in heaven … and that soju should be treated with respect.

Apgujeong may not be a tent but the staff are still very friendly and it does capture a very traditional Korean feel with polished floorboards, heavy wooden tables, and the smell of rush mats mixing pleasantly with the aromas of cooking. I was shown to a table and promptly presented with a plate of kimchi, bean sprouts and tiny fish which had been marinated in honey, soy and sesame. I ordered a Cass beer ($28).

The restaurant has been open for a couple of months now but the waitress informs me that the menu has already changed a lot during that time since they are still learning which dishes work well and which prove to be less popular. A quick glance told me that there was plenty that would probably keep me happy for several visits. Starters that included beef tartar with sweet pear ($128), Sea snails with chillis and spicy beef with squid and vegetables (both $75).

I plumped for traditional Korean pancakes ($68). These are made from green beans, garlic and onion and are served piping hot with a sharp and spicy sauce. They were a perfect addition to the platter of kimchi and fishes. I ordered another beer.

Apgujeong has an interesting range of hot pots and whilst the beef rib with chestnut ($78) and the Ginseng with chicken ($108) were both tempting I knew my limitations, I’d already ordered pan fried yellow fish ($70). This was tender and succulent and once again came with a sweet spicy sauce to dip it in.

It is quite a small restaurant and by now it was almost full but customers were still arriving. My final dish arrived along with another beer. The dish was kimchi with pork fried rice ($85) which is delivered in a stone pot with a raw egg on top. The idea is to mix it all together quickly but don’t eat it too quickly. The rice that is in contact with the pot becomes a little crusty which makes for a wonderful contrast in texture between the crusty and the softer rice on the inside.

Apgujeong is a welcome addition to the Knutsford Terrace strip, whether you want a full meal or just drinks and snacks. Reservations are recommended, particularly at weekends.

713-715 Grand Century Place
Mongkok
Kowloon
Tel 2628 3711

4/F Carnarvon Plaza
20 Carnarvon Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2368 1263 till they get their own number in Jan ‘10 CHECK

2/F Plaza 2000, 2-4 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2368 1263

G/F 5-7 Hanoi Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2368 1263

1/F Koon Fook Centre,
9 Knutsford Terrace
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3579 2992

29+30/F 1 Peking Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 3427 2288

29-30/F One Peking Road
1 Peking road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3427 2288

29+30/F 1 Peking Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 3427 2288

Shop 3027-28, IFC Mall
Harbour View Street
Central
Tel 2530 2188

Shop 3027-28
IFC Mall
Harbour View Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2530 2188

G/F 4 Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 1856
Fax 2808 4450

LG/F 7 Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2522 1262
Fax 2522 0757

G/F Shop A, 77 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 5551
Fax 2526 5559

G/F Shop A, 77 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 5551
Fax 2526 5559

Shop G07 Ground Floor
Ocean Terminal
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2956 3288
Fax 2730 2119