Eat Drink Hong Kong

Shop F-G, 18 Jupiter Street
North Point
Hong Kong
Tel 2807 1386

1/F 68 Wing L, ok Street
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 3528 7553

19/F Soho Square
21 Lyndhurst Terrace
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2123 9163
Fax 2815 9165

19/F Soho Square
21 Lyndhurst Terrace
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2123 9163
Fax 2815 9165

G/F 16 Staunton Street
Soho
Hong Kong
Tel 2869 5463
Tel 2147 9689

G/F 153 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2122 9795

I found a branch of Al Dente I didn’t know about the other day. This one is on Jaffe Road in Wanchai. I must admit, it’s not really the kind of place where I would have gone looking for a nice little ‘hole in the wall’ type Italian restaurant. It’s on the unfashionable part of the road beyond the bridge that leads to Central Plaza and the immigration department.

As I was walking by I caught what sounded suspiciously like the ivory tickling of Art Tatum. Before I knew what had happened I was sitting there with a glass of red wine in one hand, a menu in the other and some truly nifty piano playing wafting through the air.

It really is quite a small place, long and narrow with seating for no more than about 30 people. It was not too full when I arrived but several of the tables had been pushed together in preparation for what looked like a group of 12-14. The table by the door also had a large reserved sign on it. This was the middle of the week and I was beginning to feel decidedly lucky to have got a table without making a reservation first.

For starters I ordered the Fungi Ala Griglia ($79). This consisted of two plump portobello mushrooms, char grilled and topped with goats cheese, and served on a bed of lettuce and arugula with tomatoes. I love these mushrooms and the char grilling really brought out the rich earthy flavour. I was most impressed.

So impressed that I hadn’t noticed the Art Tatum CD had finished and been replaced with what sounded suspiciously like Kenny G.

It wasn’t long before the main course arrived. I had originally ordered a veal dish but veal had been unavailable on this particular evening. The waiter, instead, offered me a variation made with fillet of chicken ($149).

The chicken was layered with spinach, sage, cheese and proscuitto, served on a bed of creamed potato with a truffle and mushroom sauce. This, I decided, was a very happy alternative to the veal.

By now the restaurant had filled up and there were still people arriving, hoping to get a table. I ordered a mixed berry crumble with ice cream ($48) for dessert.

I was feeling quite full - all the servings had been generous, and would be perfect for sharing. Which is just what the diners on the adjacent table table were doing and I couldn’t help but smile knowingly as they admired their newly arrived portobello mushrooms.

I paid my bill and, much to the relief of the hungry faces outside, went off in search of Delaneys and a pint of Kilkenny for the road.

G/F 36 Elgin Street
Soho
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 1007
Fax 2770 8020

79 Bonham Strand
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2827 8277

G/F 4 Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 1856
Fax 2808 4450

1/F The Luxe Manor
39 Kimberley Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3763 8888

G/F Shop B, 11 Old Bailey Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2524 1818

49-51 Gough Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2815 5411

At first I thought a restaurant called Babylon would probably serve middle eastern cuisine but when I got there I discovered that it was really a European/international menu.

It’s a small restaurant right at the very end of Gough Street. A cosy little nook, as evidenced by several young couples making sheeps eyes at each other over the candle light. I felt a bit of a gooseberry but I never let things like that spoil my appetite.

The decor is fairly straightforward, simple but functional with seating for about eighteen. The menu does have an a la carte section but the set dinner menu offers a wide variety of choices.

I started with crab meat cream soup. It was a delicious soup with large chunks of crab sculling around, but it was crying out for some nice crusty bread to go with it. Sadly all that was offered were some rather uninspiring soft rolls. Still the soup itself was good and I wolfed it down while Whitney sang something about the greatest love and a dozen watery eyes gazed devotedly at their opposite numbers.

For entree I had ordered braised lamb shank in herb and red wine sauce. This arrived on a bed of creamed potato and, rather surprisingly, with a side of arugula leaves. I have nothing against aragula but I would have thought carrots or string beans might have been more appropriate.

Or maybe I was just being an old fuddy duddy. The lamb itself was excellent. Lean and tender, it slipped away from the bone with ease.

Dessert was a fairly standard creme brulee. Perfectly edible but nothing to make it stand out above any other creme brulee. Tea or coffee is also included

The set was $268. I added a glass of wine to that which took the bill to a litle over $300. I thought that was pretty decent value for money. A little more thought on the details and it would be a terrific place to sneak off to. Especially if you are young and in love.

Baci is one of those restaurants that has been around for so long that it is almost embarrassing to admit that I’d never been there. I was forced to confront the situation a few days ago when a friend asked me if I’d been over to try out the new menu. After thinking for a few moments I had to confess that I hadn’t even tried the old menu.

So I set out the other evening to rectify the issue. I had hoped to talk my friend into coming with me but we couldn’t find a mutually agreeable date before she flew out. So undeterred I went alone.

I got there just after seven and the bar already had a considerable number of people who had stopped by a for an after work drink. I went straight through to the dining area. The restaurant is on the 2nd and 3rd floors (Baci Pizza is on the 1st). The decor is sleek and chic with gold and mirrored walls and simple but comfortable furniture.

I was shown to a table on the second floor. Neither of the floors are big, on my floor there were only seven tables offering seating for a maximum of 18 people. I settled into my chair and ordered a glass of fruity Vale Viognier ($78). The bread basket arrived and I delved into the menu.

Although a few favourites have been retained the majority of the items boast a ‘new’ symbol next to them. They all sounded good.

For starters I was tempted to order the Crab salad with carrots and mango ($108) but in the end I plumped for the Carpaccio Arcobaleno ($118). This is very thinly sliced pieces of smoked salmon, tuna and swordfish with extra virgin olive oil and arugula leaves. I was pleased. The fish was tasty and melted in the mouth. It didn’t last long and soon I was mopping up the olive oil with the remains of the bread basket.

For the main course I’d narrowed my choices down to home made ravioli stuffed with duck and goose liver ($198) and roasted lamb loin in porcini mushroom sauce ($228). I opted for the lamb.

The dish took rather longer to arrive than I would have expected. I put this down to the chefs pursuit of excellence, for when it did arrive it proved to be well worth waiting for. The lamb, rolled in rosemary and breadcrumbs, was both tender and succulent. Served with deliciously creamy creamed potatoes and, of course, the mushroom sauce. In light of this it seemed silly to worry about a few extra minutes wait.

For dessert I ordered baked custard tart with pine nuts and also asked for coffee to be served with the dessert. It was another long wait. This time, after the dish had arrived, I couldn’t help thinking that perhaps I should have opted for the home made ice cream. The tart was pleasant enough but had I known I was going to wait twenty minutes for it I might have thought again.

It was a shame the delays marred what would otherwise have been a very pleasant meal indeed. I prefer to think these are just minor issues that are associated with the kitchen staff getting used to preparing a whole new menu and before long everything will be running smoothly.

I drank my coffee slowly and began to mentally compose the report I would later e-mail to my friend.

2/F Knutsford 10
14 Knutsford Terrace
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2312 6222
Fax 2312 1972

M/F, LKF Tower
33 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3579 2929

A balalaika is a small three stringed folk instrument from eastern Europe. It has a triangular body and a neck about the size of a ukulele. The only one I know of in Hong Kong is played nightly and with much verve at the restaurant of the same name in Knutsford Terrace.

We arrived about 7.45pm on a weekday - we didn’t have a reservation and we were probably lucky to get a table. The restaurant resembles a traditional style hunting lodge complete with wooden beams and Russian themed folk art decorations. There is a dedicated piroshki oven and a walk in deep freeze for keeping the vodka at optimum temperature.

The tables are arranged in a way that makes it easy to accommodate large groups as well as small groups and seating for two. Though intimacy, it has to be admitted, is not one of the restaurants main selling points. The emphasis is strictly on fun.

The music starts at 8pm and by then the place was packed. Waitresses were darting hither and thither. Taking orders, delivering orders and whipping-up support - for each shashlik that was served was ceremonially christened with vodka and flamed to a round of applause from anyone who happened to be sitting nearby.

We were still making our minds up. The menu boasts three different kinds of caviar, for those that really want to spoil themselves. Beluga, Oscetra and Sevruga. Prices start at $280 and rise to a princely $700 for 30 grams of top-of-the-line Iranian beluga.

But if caviar is beyond your budget (and it was certainly beyond ours), you can still order a blini … or two. These are the small pancakes that caviar is traditionally served with, but they can also be served with any number of other things. We ordered a crab meat and mushroom and a smoked salmon at $25 each. We also ordered a mushroom piroshki for good measure.

A piroshki is perhaps best described as a kind of dumpling, though it has a bread-like exterior wrapped around a warm filling. There are a few listed on the menu but the chef bakes them fresh so it is always worth asking the waitress what specials the chef has that day. Our waitress had a smile that could melt the vodka room so I jumped at any excuse to call her over.

For the main course we had ordered a seafood shashlik ($135) and duck stew ($125). Shashlik is essentially a kebab. The seafood option included a large tiger prawn plus generous salmon, sturgeon and cod steaks. They arrive at the table suspended vertically and are flamed as described above and came with rice potatoes and vegetables.

The duck, stewed with apples, prunes, apricots and potatoes, was very tender with a delicious fruity tang. It is served in a pot with a freshly baked brown bread crust.

We decided a little rest was in order before dessert so we took the opportunity to visit the walk-in vodka freezer. The temperature in the freezer is kept so low that visitors are provided with snug fur coats to go inside and admire the roughly 30 different vodkas from all around the world, including arctic fruit flavoured vodkas. They also serve vodka jelly and an oyster shooter.

The most interesting of the desserts are fruit based. We ordered a Russian mixed fruit pudding, which included raspberries and cranberries. It had a very sharp flavour, and while I found it most enjoyable it probably wouldn’t appeal to someone who was expecting something sweet.

Balalaika also has a VIP room which deserves a mention. Whilst the main dining area has rustic feel to it, the VIP room is straight from one of the Tzars’ palaces, with ornate furnishing and a huge chandelier. The VIP room can seat up to 14 people at a minimum charge of $300 each.

Balalaika is open from 5.00pm to midnight on weekdays, and until 1.00am Saturdays and Sundays.

7 Mo Tat Wan
Lamma Island
New Territories
Tel 2982 8186

G/F 13 Knutsford Terrace
Tsimshatsui
Knutsford
Tel 2316 2212

I don’t get myself over to Kowloon side very often. Very slack of me I admit because there is no shortage of excellent places to eat. Fate took me over there the other afternoon, so as soon as I was free I made a beeline for Knutsford Terrace.

I’d been planning to check out all the options along the Terrace and in Observatory Court but then the rain beat me to it. Fortunately I was right outside BB’s Bistro which had been high on the list of possibilities anyway. So I decided to dive inside and save the research for more clement weather.

The good thing about wet weather is that there are fewer people out and about. On previous occasions when I’d thought about dining at BB’s it has always looked very busy. This time I almost had the place to myself.

A friendly waiter showed me to a table by the window and we chatted briefly about the new Premier League football season while another went to fetch the menus and a blackboard with the days oysters options.

I declined the oysters but I did order a glass of very nice Chilean Sauvignon to read the menu with.

The menu is very French and I’m sure I would have been happy with just about anything but one that took my fancy for starters was the Salted Codfish, with Bell Pepper, Asparagus and Mozzarella ($82). It also had mango but that was fine by me, I love mango.

The dish was presented as a neat little tower over which the waiter ground some black pepper. It tasted as good as it looked and I demolished it with gusto.

For the main course I had Loin of black pork with polenta and glazed vegetables ($188). A thick and juicy cut of pork on a polenta base topped with carrots and onions and garlic.

The waiter kept stopping by for a little banter, his way of making sure everything was OK without having to repeat the same question for every course.

For desert he recommended the Rhubarb Confit with Oranges and Candied Fennel ($52). A comparatively new dish to the menu he informed me. And one that I expect to be on the menu for some time to come.

Quite a few more guests had arrived by now and despite the weather the restaurant was doing well. I finished with a coffee and splashed off into the night telling myself that I really must get over this side more often.

9a Ship Street
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2866 7605

Shop 2-7, G/F Site B, Tai Hong Street
Lei King Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2567 8889

I don’t have to many opportunities to go up to the Sai Wan Ho end of town, so when I do I like to stop in and see what’s going on along Tai Hong Street. This is a little strip of restaurants on a small leafy lane that fronts onto the harbour.

It’s an attractive corner of town. The half dozen or so restaurants are geared towards the occupants of nearby residential blocks so while they may be European in style they cater very much towards local preferences. Most of them are also aimed at young family groups.

I decided to give Beira Dos Namorados a try. The decor was bright and cheerful and Ricky Martin was belting out his hits. I took a table at the front by the window. On less humid days the restaurant opens right up but on this particular evening I was grateful for the air con.

The menu is essentially Portuguese but with local characteristics. There is a range of set dinners which include a trip to the salad bar, the soup of the day, a main course, dessert and tea or coffee. For a single person they start at $165 for a pasta with seafood and go up to $250 for steaks and lobster.

Set meals for larger groups are also available. For two - $488; four - $888 and six - $1,388. These include a selection from the other main dishes. The menu also has a range of options for children.

I went for the roast baramundi option. While I waited I went to plunder the salad bar. It was a simple affair; lettuce, cherry tomatoes, sweetcorn, pak choi and cucumber. Sprinkled with dried bacon bits and parmesan cheese, it kept me happy until the soup arrived.

The soup of the day was chicken and it reminded me very much of the ones I have in the cupboard. Perfectly edible, it came with a bread roll and a little plastic tub of butter. I wolfed it down.

Outside a young boy, about 5-years-old, barrelled past on a tricycle. The lights of Kwun Tong twinkled through the trees and a crane barge slipped silently by in the dark. My baramundi arrived.

It was a decent fish too. Succulent and tasty, served on a bed of buttery creamed potato along with broccoli and a spicy, sweet orange sauce for dipping. I was pleasantly surprised to be honest.

Dessert was apple strudel with mango ice cream. Again it was perfectly adequate, the strudel could perhaps have done with a little more apple in it. But drizzled with lashings of chocolate and strawberry sauces it is undoubtedly a hit with the kids

After a salad, three courses and a coffee the overall bill was still well below $200. It’s hard to knock that kind of value.

Shop GB08-10, G/F, 45 Tai Hong Street
Lei King Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2568 3993
Fax 2568 2289

G/F Oxford House
Westlands Road
Taikoo Place
Quarry Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2250 5020
Fax 2250 5028

G/F 12 Sing Woo Road
Happy Valley
Hong Kong
Tel 2893 6900

G/F 9 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3857 7388

39a Gough Street
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2581 3669

9A Wing Lock House
1 Lock Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 6372 3242

5 Hanoi Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2721 2302

2/F Grand Progress Building
15-16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 9000

452 Shek O Village
Hong Kong
Tel 2809 2021

2/F 28 Stanley Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3175 2448

33 Lockhart Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2520 5303

Boca is a trendy European style bar on Peel Street at the junction with Elgin Street. I’d decided to go along for some early evening tapas and was lucky enough to secure the table at the front by the door. The bustle of Soho as it comes alive for the evening combines well with the Latin-flavoured jazzy grooves that were playing within.

The word tapas comes from the Spanish verb ‘tapar’, which means to cover, and was essentially a free snack that was placed on top of a drink. According to legend the first tapa was a slice of ham that was placed on a sherry glass to keep flies out. Bar owners realised that the saltiness of the ham encouraged customers to drink more and thus a tradition was born. Today the term refers to almost any snack sized dish, traditional or modern, and need only be limited by the chefs imagination.

I’d come in search of the more traditional tapas. These are listed down the left hand side of the menu while the more modern variants are on the right. I decided to order three dishes, the grilled chorizo ($56) is a favourite of mine, so that was easy. The other two choices required a little more thought. The pepper crusted tuna fillet, and the grilled sardines with sea salt and garlic both sounded tempting. Finally, after much consultation with the manageress Emmy, I decided on Gambas al Ajillo ($69) and Albondigas ($56).

Chorizo is spicy pork sausage flavoured with paprika. Sliced and grilled, it is an excellent snack that goes just as easily with a cold beer as it does with wine. Gambas is prawns and these are prepared with artichokes and spinach and sautéed in paprika. Albondigas are another classic tapas dish comprising spicy beef meatballs in rosemary and tomato sauce. Finally, a basket of home-made bread - perfect for dipping.

Had I not been in danger of overdoing it I might have been tempted by some of options on the “not-so-traditional” side of the menu which included dishes such as stir fried wild mushrooms sauteed in Thai spices, or roasted garlic and brie. Ah but there’ll be another time.

As would be expected, Boca also has a wide selection of wines from all over the world which are offered by the bottle or by the glass and, of course, sangria by the carafe or glass.

Desserts are not in much demand in tapas bars, due perhaps to the idea that tapas are a pre-dinner snack, but the Boca menu does offer a chocolate sponge pudding smothered in hot chocolate sauce and served with fresh strawberries, blueberries and Kiwi fruit.

Boca is open everyday from 12.00 till 2am. Reservations are recommended.

65 Peel Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel  2548 1717
Fax 2548 1727

83 Smithfield Road
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong
Tel 2872 8686

Basement and G/F, Podium Plaza
5 Hanoi Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3169 3361

G/F 31 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 9880

G/F 45 Elgin Street
Soho
Central,
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 8318
Tel 2526 8316

1/F 60 Johnston Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2528 1286

By Faye McCarthy

A surprise evening out with my husband led to a new restaurant experience for me. After a pre-dinner drink at a bar in SoHo, we strolled along Elgin Street and he finally directed me to Le Fauchon.

We entered the darkened interior (all low lights, candles, mirrors and grey tiles… modern, but intimate), and were shown to a corner table towards the back of the brasserie. After a little shuffling to make sure I had the best view of the other diners (it was already pretty full at a quarter to 8), we were given menus and a wine list. I was slightly daunted by the ‘tempura snails’, wondering if we were to have a Japanese/French evening and trying to come up with a word to describe this fusion (Frapanese being my favourite) , but as I continued through the menu I decided there were several potentially mouth watering options.

I finally I decided on the goose liver starter, followed by the duck confit (an unoriginal preferred choice for me). My husband – just as predictably – went for the snails and then in a bold move opted for the Wagyu steak (medium). I was allowed to choose the wine. I decided on a bottle of Saint Julien.

The order taken, the wine arrived with usual Hong Kong pomposity. It was lovingly uncorked, the cork placed beside my husband and the taster offered to him too (slightly annoying, since I was the one who did the choosing, but I am not one to make a fuss). I let my husband nod his appreciation and quickly took a sip before the waiter ran away. Of course it was good… as if I’d doubt my man!

Crusty bread and butter arrived. We picked at it whilst we unobtrusively (I hope) commented on the other diners, speculating on their occupations and their choice of food. At the right time the food arrived. Not too soon to interrupt our tete-a-tete, but not too late to allow our stomachs growling time.

It was beautifully arranged. I am not a fan of heaped plates and it certainly wasn’t. The starter was just that - enough to whet our appetites. The fois gras was cooked to perfection, almost melting in the mouth. A drizzle of balsamic around the plate and a small mound of mixed salad made it look and taste fresh. My husband’s snails came enclosed in a baked tomato instead of the usual awkward, and often messy, shells. When he cut the tomato open it oozed garlic sauce. I had to dip my bread in just to make sure I could cope with any hazardous garlic fumes later that night.

The wine was refilled at intervals without any of the usual ceremonial interruptions often adopted by restaurants and again the correct amount of time was left between courses.

My confit de canard was stacked upon some crisp mange tout and a couple of boiled potatoes placed beside it. It looked and tasted good. It was very slightly dry, but so slight that I can’t complain of it ruining my enjoyment. I was extremely happy with my choice.

My husband’s ‘medium’ steak turned out to be quite bloody, which made me giggle and only added to the French experience, because, as we all know, a good French chef would never lower themselves to overcook a decent piece of red meat. If you’re a fan of well-done steaks or are even slightly squeamish at the sight of a little blood, my advice would be to order something completely different.

Unfortunately we were both too full to consider a dessert. All I can say is from what we saw passing our table, they looked delicious. Next time, I promise, if I have to starve myself for a week or end up feeling sick as a dog, I am going to order myself a chocolate soufflé. Brasserie Le Fauchon is perfect for an intimate evening, with unobtrusive, good service and enticing food.

QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2575 0939

G/F, Caine Mansion
80-88 Caine Road
Mid-Levels
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2548 0330

36b Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2899 2244

Shop G315, Harbour City
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2721 2181

33 Tong Chong Street
Quarry Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2960 0994
Fax 2563 2177

Guest Review

The restaurant is conveniently located along Graham Street (where else?) in Soho, just down from the busy and sometimes rowdy Staunton Street.

The walls are completely covered with an eclectic mix of pictures, from a scenic photo of France to ancient Egyptian alphabets. It has almost become a home-from-home for lots of regulars.

It is busy lunchtime and evening, and you should check ahead if going in the evening - they will let you know when a table is likely to be free.

Cafe Graham is so casual and relaxed that you can dine alone, in pairs, or a big group of friends, and still be yourself. It has friendly staff and cosy seats. I’ve been there alone and I didn’t look weird or geeky or miserable at all - sitting alone in a corner having my meal while playing on my PSP (at least I think so). I’ve been there for dates and I didn’t feel any bit less romantic - I actually felt more relaxed with my partner. I’ve been there in groups of three, four, five, and so on - we had a great party. By the way, the restaurant takes reservations for private parties too - it should be able to accommodate around 30 people or so.

The food is mainly French basics, and well done - presentation is up to standard, meat is tender, fish is crisply pan fried, pasta is surprisingly healthy with home-made sauces, desserts are rich in flavour and most importantly, the price is very economical.

I always go for a lobster bisque to start with, then tomato-sauce shrimp with salad greens, followed by a sole fillet with vegetables. And if I still have space to accomodate dessert, a chocolate mud cake. The serving size is always generous, and on top of that, you can choose to have vegetables, rice or spaghetti to go with your main meal. My other favourites include the baked escargots, duck breast glazed with honey, grilled lamb cutlets with herbs, beef stroganoff and braised lamb shank.

Prices for a main meal range from HK$50-120. If you want to have good French and European cuisine with bargain prices, this would be the place to go. To top it all, the price of house wine starts at only HK$100 per bottle

Level 49, The Upper House, Pacific Place
Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 3968 1106

G/F 202 Queens Road Central
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2545 1111
Fax 2545 1171

G & 1/F, 285 Queens Road Central
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong

One Capital Place
18 Luard Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 3543 0224

2 Arbuthnot Road
Central
Hong Kong

The new branch of Cafe O is at 285 Queens Road Central. That’s just at the bottom of Ladder Street so if you’ve had a gruelling afternoon shopping for antiques in Cat Street and environs it’s a perfect place to take the weight off your feet and enjoy a long cool smoothie.

I hadn’t been antique shopping, I was in that neck of the woods for other reasons but I decided to make a detour and have a late lunch.

Approaching from the Sheung Wan side it seems at first to be rather an unusual location but looking at it from the other side then it could be seen as leading the charge in Noho’s relentless expansion towards Sheung Wan.

The restaurant takes up the ground and first floor with simple but sleek decor There are numerous computer terminals and the premises are wi-fi enabled, so you need never be a moment away from your e-mail or your favourite websites. Upstairs there is a balcony where you can sit outside and overlook Queens Road.

Cafe O opens at seven in the morning but late risers will be pleased to note that breakfast is served all day. The idea of having breakfast for lunch did cross my mind. The Triple O, which includes three eggs, hash browns, mushrooms bacon and sausage for $78, and the Othello; Australian beef hamburger with crispy bacon and mozzarella on a home made bun for $98 were both tempting.

The breakfast menu also included pancakes and organic muesli. But I was there for a late lunch and the longer I remained undecided the later it was getting.

Looking at the items in the display counter I noticed something that, whilst it didn’t really look like a Cornish pasty, it certainly made me think of them. This was called a Calzone ($42), a pizza that has been folded so that the crust is on the outside and the topping has become a filling. I ordered one.

There was a vegetarian option but I went for the herbed chicken with vegetables. I also ordered some cheezy potatoes ($32), potato wedges with melted mozzarella and sprinkled with chilli and paprika. To wash it all down I ordered a Blue Energy. This is a blend of banana, orange and blueberry juice.

While I waited I looked at the other pizza options on the menu. Cafe O makes pizza by the metre. A full metre will cost $178, half metre cost $98 and are great for sharing but it is also possible to buy an individual portion for $42. The basic topping are all quite simple; home made pesto, tomato and basil and fresh mushroom are just a few. Onto these you can add as many or as few topping as you heart desires.

The calzone was quite tasty, it didn’t fill me up as much as a conventional pizza would, which was helpful because it turned out to be larger than it had appeared in the counter. The cheesy potatoes were a tad dry and might have benefitted from a little butter, though it’s a small complaint and one that I’m sure could have been easily addressed had I got up to ask.

The Blue Energy was delicious. Made entirely from fresh ingredients and nothing else. The banana blended wonderfully with the orange and blueberry to give a taste that was still tangy but neither too sharp nor too sweet.

So impressed was I with the juice I decided I couldn’t leave without trying a smoothie as well. I plumped for the Brain Wave. This is a combination of pineapple, kiwi, mint and ginger mixed with a pineapple sorbet and was every bit as good as the juice. The juices and smoothies come in two sizes $29 and $36.

There is also a range of teas, herbal teas and coffee available as well as a selection of wines and beers

G/F 33 Wing Wo Street
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2851 0012

I spotted Cafe Ola a few months ago, but as it’s hidden down a side lane in Central, promptly forgot about it until a friend suggested an early dinner after work. Wing Wo Street runs down the side of the Cosco buildings, between Queen’s Road and Des Voeux Road - Cafe Ola is near the Des Voeux end.

Inside, everything is very relaxed and homey - some of the owner’s old album covers line the walls, and we passed a couple of happy minutes trying to remember whether we’d owned the same ones. There was a small TV going in the corner, but no worries - the sound was switched off! I thought this looked a promising venue for watching football, but didn’t check out the cable situation.

There’s usually a couple of tables out in the lane (comfortingly clean), with businessmen having a couple of beers after work, and at these prices (all bottled lagers $20, Boddingtons $28), why not? House wine starts at $25 per glass for Agua Negra from Argentina, which of course I had to try - it was even drinkable. Bottles are available at prices up to $380 for top-of-the-range.

Every day they have a choice of 4 dishes with the set dinner menu at a bargain price. On the evening we went, the set included a starter of grilled duck breast with salad leaves, a soup (ours was pumpkin, a little thin, but obviously home-made and creamy), dessert, and coffee/tea.

I ordered the rack of lamb (medium rare) for my main ($118 for the set), which came with little roasted tomatoes, broccoli and potatoes. The meat itself was a little gristly, but it was cooked to perfection with ‘rosemary scent & demi-glace’ sauce. My friend had the chicken breast, which arrived with chestnut mash (yummy) and similar vegetables.

We decided to share desserts. Choices included chocolate mousse, but we selected tiramisu, and lime sorbet, as we were feeling a little full by this time. The sorbet came with a little stick of chocolate, and was inexplicably creamy - tasty though. The tiramisu, however, was disappointingly solid, and lacking in flavour.

Unfortunately, on the night we were there, the coffee machine was out of order, so we scuttled out after a relaxing hour. We had spent only $298 between two of us, and when the ever-cheery owner said come back soon, it actually sounded like he meant it!

This place produces very reasonable food at bargain prices, and I certainly intend to make myself a regular.

Shop 1, G/F Jervois House
1 Jervois Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2517 8484
Fax 2517 8585

Shop 1, G/F Jervois House
Jervois Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2517 8484

G22-27, G/F Hutchison House
10 Harcourt Road
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 2323

G/F 8 Queen’s Road East
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2527 8999

Shop 22B Cityplaza
Taikoo Shing
Hong Kong
Tel 2904 8676

Shop OT G63 Harbour City
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3101 0901

I’d been down in the Dickens Bar having a swift pint with on old friend who was on whirlwind business trip. I admit I’d been half expecting that we would get into one of those ‘just like the old days’ marathon drinking sessions. But it was not to be. He managed to fit me in between his last meeting and his taxi to the airport.

I watched him bundle his suitcase into the back of the taxi. It was good to see the old rogue but I was secretly grateful that I wasn’t going to have one of those ‘just like the old days’ Wednesday morning hangovers. But, since I was here I might as well take advantage of the situation.

I turned about and headed back into the Excelsior Hotel and up to Cammino on the first floor. Cammino with it’s wooden shuttered windows and terra cotta tiling, is a little corner of Tuscany. The atmosphere is informal and the staff friendly, attentive and indeed prompt. A glass of fruity Primitivo di Puglia ($80 for a large one) was produced before I’d even made up my mind on a starter.

I’d narrowed the choices down to either the Antipasto Toscano which consisted of cured meats, goats cheese and marinated vegetables ($138) or the Forest Mushroom Ragout on a baked Portobello Mushroom ($108).

The cured meats won the day and I was treated to a selection of salami and parma ham and cheese served on an impressively large glass plate with salad, artichokes, sun-dried tomato and a generous slice of chilled rock melon.

The bread basket was also generous. Five different types served with roasted garlic, butter and balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

For a main course I ordered the oven roasted rack of lamb with herb garlic crust ($248). The dish was handsomely presented with creamed potato and a balsamic sauce. The lamb was tender and juicy and was again, a generous portion.

Two other items on the menu that were jostling for attention were the pan fried sole ($288) and the linguine with Boston lobster which can be ordered as a starter ($128) or as a main course ($188).

Personally I prefer to have pasta at lunchtime. If I eat pasta at dinner I often find I’m too full and lose interest in dessert.

This evenings dessert was the minted woodland berry compote with mascarpone cheese mouse. Although it is called a cheese it’s flavour is very creamy and is a perfect accompaniment for the tartness of the fruit.

I rounded off with a coffee. Leaning back I thought about my friend, he must be about queuing to board by now I guessed. I thought about what options he would have on his in-flight menu and would he go for the fish or the chicken.

Four Seasons Hotel
8 Finance Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3196 8888

Shop 237, 2/F The Landmark
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2905 9078

43 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 5500
Fax 2147 5757

G/F 53A Graham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 2430
Fax 2110 0614

I have to be honest, you need deep pockets to dine at Cepage. It’s the first Hong Kong outlet for Singapore’s Les Amis Group and is located on Wing Fung Street right next to Pacific Place 3.

I don’t have deep pockets I’m afraid but I was keen to give it a try, so I decided to stop by and see how far my budget would go. They are still waiting for their alcohol licence to be approved so that helped me a little. If you are planning a visit you can bring your own wine, you won’t be charged corkage. But I do suggest you call in advance to check.

The dining area is actually on the first floor. The ground is an elegant but discreet lobby where a lift takes you to the restaurant proper. There aren’t many tables and most of them were already booked. That said, there is no such thing as a bad table. Mine was one of a group of three away from the main dining room though there couldn’t have been more than seven or eight even there. Each table has it’s own chandelier, crisp white linen, and allows generous elbow room for a party of four.

Ol’ blue eyes croons away in the background, napkins are positioned and the first of several surprise treats are delivered. This was a delicious canapé of truffle ice cream in a tiny cone decorated with poppy seeds. A little explosion of flavour to get proceedings underway.

Shortly after this the menu and bread basket arrived. Service was friendly and efficient but at no time hurried. I like this, it allows me to enjoy the atmosphere. The only change I would have made would be to tweak Frank Sinatra’s volume up a bit.

I placed my order and was rewarded with a slice of smoked salmon with rosti and julienne cucumber.

The first dish I’d actually ordered was was smoked pigeon with caramelised endive and truffle vinaigrette ($230). It was an inspired choice and I almost wished I had ordered two. The bird was smoked with hickory and was as tender and succulent as I could have hoped for.

The next dish was angel-hair pasta with chilli du Monteporro and lobster oil ($340). According to the menu this is usually made with crab but crab dishes were not available on this particular day. The chef was able to offer the same dish made with shrimp so I agreed to that.

Although it is a chilli dish it is not spicy - the full flavour of the chilli comes through without the heat. The waiter informed me that this dish comes from one very small region in Italy.

Dessert was Grand Marnier parfait in a chocolate cone with orange tuile and citrus fruit salad ($150).

I’d been looking forward to an early night and coffee would have put the kibosh on that idea. However the petit fours and chocolates that would have accompanied the coffee were still delivered.

Cepage has three private dining rooms which can accommodate groups from four up to fifteen persons.

G/F, 7 Wun Sha Street
Tai Hang
Hong Kong
Tel 3528 0852

There has been quite a lot of talk about Cherry Garden and the other restaurants that are popping up around Tai Hang. Though most of them actually popped up a year or more ago. It’s also been suggested that the area could be the next restaurant district. Wun Sha Road where most of the restaurants are isn’t all that appealing, but the narrow roads and low rise buildings nearby certainly would have possibilities. At the moment, however, it is mostly auto repair shops.

Anyway, I’d heard good things about The Cherry Garden so I decided it was time to go and see for myself.

It’s a popular little place, I got there just after seven and it was already quite busy. There is a rather large lighting fixture but otherwise the decor is clean and simple. There are some Chinese style square tables and stools and some conventional rectangular tables. Some jazzy sounds were drifting from a loudspeaker somewhere but it wasn’t very loud.

The menu is European and fairly straightforward. There is a choice of steaks, lamb, chops and chicken. There are also pasta and pizza options as well as vegetarian choices. It struck me as being a pretty well balanced menu for all the family.

For starters I was hankering after some calamari ($34) but the potato skins ($28) were also tempting so in the end I ordered both. The skins came stuffed, one side with bacon and cheese the other side vegetables in a tomato sauce. Both dishes were garnished with a little jungle of salad greens.

For the main course I’d ordered the baby back ribs ($98). The menu warned of a thirty minute wait (hence the two starters) but it didn’t take anywhere near that long.

“We’re not that busy tonight,” the waiter assured me. I looked around and thought that there must be quite a lot of restaurants that would kill to be ‘not that busy’ on a Wednesday night.

The ribs were served with regulation fries. These were a little ordinary but the ribs themselves were perfectly acceptable. Again there was a little forest of green on the side but this time there were some peppers to add a little colour.

Now I have often said that a meal isn’t complete without dessert, and I have also often lamented that too many restaurants don’t make the effort to come up with interesting choices. But Cherry Garden really pull out an ace with their Earl Grey Pudding and Fresh Fruit Sabayon ($38).

The Sabayon (from the Italian zabaione) is a light airy sauce made from eggs, sugar and some kind of liquor poured over watermelon, pineapple and papaya. Green tea ice cream had never really excited me but the Earl Grey pudding was truly yummy.

I left and headed back towards Causeway Bay through the narrow streets. I could envision tables on the pavement, plants growing up walls. People spilling out onto street corners, drinks in hand, on balmy summer evenings. It would indeed make an excellent bar and restaurant district. But I couldn’t help thinking that if it did take off, it would attract the attention of some corporate behemoth who would wreck the place for everyone and put up some soulless concrete and glass tower.

The Peninsula Hotel
Salisbury Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2315 3169
Fax 2315 3140

G/F 117 Pak Sha Wan
Sai Kung
New Territories
Tel 2243 1918

G/F Arbuthnot House
10 Arbuthnot Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2801 6768

G/F, 8-9 Sun Street
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2527 1408

22-26 Peel Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2541 1401

Fridays were special days when I was a kid. We used to get off school fifteen minutes earlier so we’d go and play footy in the park for a while. There were no mobile phones back then, some of us didn’t even have land lines yet, but so long as we were home before dad, nobody minded.

On Fridays being home before dad was not a problem. On Fridays dad used to stop off at the chippy on the way home. I can never forget the blast of cold air accompanied by the warm smell of well wrapped fish and chips as he opened the front door. Mum already had the plates warming in the kitchen.

This was where the weekend began, dad was home, there was no school tomorrow and there was a plate of fish and chips warming my knees as we watched the telly. We were only allowed to have dinner in front of the telly on Fridays.

A few years later the chippy would be the last place I stopped at after a Friday night out. On a student budget a piece of cod was just a bit too expensive so I would often have a saveloy with chips.

I had my first saveloy in over twenty years the other evening. After college I moved to London. Saveloys were rare in London chippies so they slipped from my diet altogether.

This most recent saveloy I discovered, appropriately, in The Chippy. But whereas in England ‘the chippy’ is a generic term for a place that sells fish and chips, in Hong Kong it is at 51 Wellington Street. Though the entrance is around the corner on Pottinger behind all the fancy dress stalls.

It does a good job of looking like an authentic chippy. Plain white walls with just a touch of blue here and there. The menu is chalked up on a blackboard at one end and there are some tables squeezed into a narrow space between the counter and the outside wall.

I ordered the classic cod and chips ($95) to accompany my saveloy ($35 as a side order) and a bottle of Newcastle Brown Ale ($45). There are plenty of other things on the menu; pies, pasties, Cumberland sausage, battered sausage or chicken. They can all be served with either chips or mash and with a choice of mushy peas, beans or salad. The fish options include cod, haddock and sole.

My piece of fish was firm, flaky and fresh, and cooked in a light, crispy batter. The chips were hand cut and actually tasted of potatoes rather than the oil they were cooked in.

Apart from a few places that sold banana fritters I don’t recall much else in the line of dessert from the chippies of my youth. The Chippy have addressed this by offering the iconic Scottish delicacy, the deep fried Mars Bar ($45). Here it is served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

The Mars bar itself is sweet and gooey but you knew that anyway. The sweetness tends to overwhelm the taste of the batter. The batters main job, it seems, is merely to seal it in long enough to melt but not leak. Although mine was still a little firm in the middle.

The problem with Mars bars generally is that they are fine for the first few bites then I get bored with them. The same can be said for the deep fried variety, they need to be shared.

Basement, 51a Wellington Street
Central
Hong Kong
(entrance Pottinger Street)
Tel 2523 1618
Fax 2523 1718

There is an interesting strip of restaurants on the waterfront at Lei King Wan in Sai Wan Ho. They are surrounded by huge residential developments so it’s not difficult to guess where thay are expecting their customer base to come from. But it is a pleasant area - trees line a fairly quiet road where one could sit and simply watch the boats pass by.

If it’s not too hot a nice way to get there and work up an appetite at the same time would be to take a stroll through Quarry Bay Park. This will bring you to the end of Tai Hong Street on the harbour side of the Eastern Corridor. Not so pleasant but much quicker would be to take the MTR to Sai Wan Ho and approach Tai Hong Street from the other end.

Most of the restaurants here have a European feel but Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese are also represented. At weekends the restaurants are open all afternoon but mid-week many don’t open until 6.00pm. We were early so we idled away an hour at The Captains Table.

This is a tiny pub next to the Sai Wan Ho ferry pier. As you might guess the interior has a maritime feel but there is also a small area where you can sit outside. They have an unusual approach to happy hour here, if you buy four beers you get a fifth one free. There were three of us so the math wasn’t going to work unless we all had five each which, we decided, might not be such a good move. We ordered Coronas anyway and decided to divvy-up the last two as best we could.

For dinner we adjourned to Chit Chat, one of the unpretentious European style restaurants. The decor is predominantly shades of green which give it an easygoing relaxing feel. Candles on the table add a touch of romance.

A bottle of Glen Carlou, Pinot Noir 2002 ($260) got the proceedings under way. There are numerous set dinners to choose from as well as a full a la carte menu. At $158 the set dinners seemed excellent value and include soup, main course and coffee. There is also a range of extra value starters that can be added to the set dinners. We were sold on the set menu. My companions ordered smoked salmon and mango roll ($30) and clams with herbs and white wine sauce ($35) while I had the goose liver pate and toast ($30).

Although it didn’t sweep me off my feet the pate was nice and I made short work of it before casting envious glances at the salmon which, to me, had seemed the best bargain of the first round. Although it has to be said a growing pile of empty clamshells suggested all was well on the other side of the table.

Envy got the better of me again when the main courses were delivered. I had ordered cod in garlic butter. The menu had offered flounder but the kitchen didn’t have any that day so they had substituted with cod. But it was the last to arrive. Before that I had to watch as first baby pork ribs and then a huge charcoal grilled rib-eye steak were delivered to my companions. The steak had been ordered medium-rare and while it looked definitely on the more medium side of things it didn’t seem to be causing too much concern.

The roast baby pork ribs looked to be the highlight of this round. Again a very generous portion, the meat firm and tasty but separated from the bone without a fight. The fish wasn’t too far behind though and while I might have prefered the flounder the cod worked just fine. All dishes were served with vegetables and a choice of fried potatoes, rice or pasta.

For dessert our numbers had been reduced to two and I was secretly glad that the fish hadn’t been as generous a portion as the steak. The dessert menu harbours most of the usual suspects, creme brulee, tiramisu etc. We ordered an American-style cheesecake with strawberries and cream, and a ‘warm hearted chocolate sponge’. This takes a while to prepare but is worth the wait. Served with a scoop of chocolate ice cream, when you break open the sponge warm chocolate sauce oozes out. It was so delicious I felt guilty.

31 Wing Fung Street
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2528 3454

2/F Beach Building
Deepwater Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2812 2226

1/F (café) & 6/F (wholesale)
California Entertainment Building
34-36 D’Aguilar Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3167 7022

Level 3, Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 2918 9643

This quiet little tapas bar is part of the Fleming Hotel. The waitress assured me that it is much busier at lunchtimes and breakfast. On the evening that I went, I was the only customer I saw. The location doesn’t help. The entrance is tucked away on Jaffe Road to the side of the hotel entrance. And there is nothing at all on the outside to betray its existence.

I took a table by the window, sinking deep into the sofa and the cushions. The walls are almost bare but the ceiling is an arrangement of cube shapes, some of which are light fittings. It made me think of the early nineteen seventies but the background music was modern jazzy based wallpaper music.

I decided I would start with a tapas or two … or three. The menu offers a tapas combo for $208. This is a choice of any three tapas on the menu. I knew it was going to be too much because I had already made my mind up that I was going to try the Tagliatelli ala Carbonara ($158)..

One of the tapas I ordered was Lime Bait; This is deep fried white anchovies served with wedges of lime. Arriving with that were meatballs in saffron and almond sauce. Both were enjoyable.

Arriving a short while later was deep fried camembert with cranberry sauce. All of these dished were fairly generous servings and could easily be used as starters in their own right. As tapas they are perhaps a little too big for one person but perfect for sharing. Since I knew I had over ordered anyway, I tried to restrain myself.

Carbonara is rather a routine dish but I’d had a hankering for one. This one lived up to my expectations well enough. The sumptuous sofa did become a bit of a problem. It’s fine when you are leisurely stabbing at tapas items but it puts you at a distinct disadvantage when dealing with something as recalcitrant as tagliatelli.

To finish off I ordered a small portion of banana cake and a coffee.

The menu at cubix isn’t large and it doesn’t contain any surprises. But the food is agreeable enough. I think the restaurants main advantage is that you can probably always get a table. If you must have pasta, remember to avoid the sofa seats.

G/F 33 Bonham Road
Mid-Levels
Hong Kong
Tel 2540 2874

G/F, 9 Gage Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 2621
Fax 2900 0346

17/F 525 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3907 0090

10-12, G/F Sunning Plaza
10 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 8013

1/F 102 Austin Road
Jordan
Kowloon
Tel 3526 1228

Typhoon Kammuri threw cold water all over my plans for dinner last Wednesday but the day was salvaged. Quite pleasantly too. Like many people, after a day of forced idleness, I was bored silly.

I’d figured that since no markets had been open all day, menus might not be at full strength so I sauntered off to Kennedy Town where I’d heard about a handful of bars.

Davis was on the end of a line of four. It has a nice rustic feel, wooden stools and simulated stone topped tables. They also had a blackboard menu right in the doorway, I needed no other invitation.

There were a few other people there but there was plenty of space. The waitress went off to find another blackboard and lugged it over to the table and explained the dishes. For tapas the dishes are actually quite large, and if you are only looking for a light snack I’d recommend sharing.

For a starter I ordered deep fried camembert with assorted sausages ($78). There were actually three types of sausage in a tomato and pepper sauce. With the cheese and some slices of toast as well I decided that this was two tapas rolled into one. They both went down very well with a cold bottle of Beerlao.

This is the first time I’ve seen Beerlao in Hong Kong. It used to be one of the great beer secrets of Asia. Until quite recently it was only brewed in a small brewery on the outskirts of Vientiane. It is a crisp, delicately-flavoured pilsen style beer that is made with local polished rice, Hallertau hops, German yeast and malted barley from France.

Production has been ramped up recently with investment from Carlsberg. If they can maintain the beers integrity and resist the temptation to pollute it with preservatives Beerlao could become very popular indeed. I ordered another bottle.

For my next dish I had ordered grilled beef salad ($98). A simple but pleasing dish that consisted of slices of beef arranged around a green salad with a spicy sauce in which to dip the beef.

Dessert was deliciously decadent cheesecake with pistachio nuts and flavoured with Black Sambuca liqueur. If you are a lover of cheesecake, then it is worth the journey just for that!

B1 Holiday Inn Golden Mile
50 Nathan Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2315 1020

This is a cosy little French restaurant on Whitfield Road in North Point. I’m sure it does a roaring trade at lunch times but in the evenings, when all the office staff have left the area, there doesn’t seem to be many customers around. That, of course, makes it a perfect spot for a quiet and romantic interlude. Alas, I was on my own.

But I wasn’t about to let that spoil my enjoyment. Even empty the restaurant has a lot of atmosphere. A variety of oil paintings line the walls while screens and a lamp help break up the rectangular shape of the room. A flagstone floor and art deco light fittings create the impression of a small bistro somewhere in Paris in the 1950s.

An intelligent selection of background music, that included selections by Edith Piaf and Django Reinhardt/Stéphane Grappelli’s Hot Five’s amongst others, completed the illusion.

It is a set menu but there are a range of options. The prices are $298 or $328 depending on you choice of entrée. I ordered glass of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) and thought about it.

The first course was soup. There was a choice between Clam Chowder and Seafood. I had opted for the latter which I found to be very agreeable.

This was followed by a rather delicious pan-seared foie gras. The outside was thin and crisp, the inside creamy and rich and absolutely bursting with flavour. There were several other options on the menu but when I make a return visit I know I’m going to find it hard to pass this one up in favour of something else.

The main course was Roast Suckling Pig. Served with asparagus and potato the flavour of the meat was wonderfully balanced with rosemary and thyme. Succulent and tender and with a beautifully golden and crisp outer skin.

Bringing up the rear was coffee and creme caramel. I did think about asking if there was a cheese board, I didn’t remember seeing it on the menu. But in the end I decided I was already feeling well satisfied so I let it pass.

I paid my bill, which I must say was very reasonable for the quality of the meal, said au revoir and stepped out of the Paris of fifty years ago and back into the Hong Kong of today

2 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2523 3123

16-17/F L’Hart, 487 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 6100

1/F JIA Boutique Hotel
1-5 Irving Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 6628

118 Hollywood Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2547 0000

A couple of weeks ago, we noticed a new place opening just next door to the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road, so when the chance came for a ‘ladies who lunch’ meeting, four of us booked into Duo.

It’s a sleek-looking place, with high ceiling, wooden floor, stylish but comfy seating, and enough space to give you some privacy. Ceiling high shelves hold some shiny knick-knacks and books which relax the look a little. At 1.30pm on a Wednesday, it was fairly busy, though not full. Strangely, for an Italian restaurant, the music playing softly was vaguely middle-eastern.

The friendly staff directed us to a centre table, and after we sadly rejected the extensive wine menu (it WAS lunchtime!) bustled off to fetch some sparkling water.

We were a little disappointed to discover there were no lunch specials, but I expect the restaurant is still a little bit new for that yet, so we turned to the main menu. A fairly diverse affair, with everything from open salad bar ($140, and it looked tempting), to a couple of burgers, to veal (at $320 a little deep for our pockets), and variety of pastas in the $100-150 range.

While pulling apart some crusty bread to dip into pesto, I decided you should always check out the spaghetti bolognese at a new Italian. My companions chose Quattro-formagio conchiglie, Penne arrabbiata, and a vegetarian risotto. All arrived together - in medium sized portions on enormous plates.

My bolognese at first bite was tasty. Of course its hard to get wrong, but the meat seemed high quality, and the sauce had just the right amount of oil to not smother it. Not as good as Mothers, though.

As for what I was allowed to taste of the other dishes, the four cheeses were almost overwhelming, but I noticed the plate got polished off even so. I’ve come to expect arrabbiata to be excessively spicy, and am not fond of getting my tongue burned, but this one was toned down a little, probably to cater for local tastes - which suited me fine. The risotto was pronounced ‘a little stiff’, but otherwise adequate.

As can happen with pasta, we were all full, but had managed to save enough room for a couple of bites of dessert. Almost everything on the dessert menu was chocolaty, except some sorbets, so we decided to share the ‘tiramisu boccata’ (which means a mouthful). Luckily it wasnt quite as small as billed, and we all managed a couple of little spoonfuls, and it really was delicious. I didn’t want to alarm my friends by then ordering another for myself, so we went ahead with a couple of coffees to wrap up the meal.

All in all it was a pleasant, relaxing lunch, and at $763 for 4 people, not overly priced. I imagine the restaurant’s main business however, will be the evening crowd. With its location under a glamorous new apartment block, and away from the bustle of Soho, it should attract a low key crowd with money to spend (I will go back for that veal one day!).

7/F 27 Ashley Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2776 3899

UG35 Festival Walk
80 Tat Chee Avenue
Kowloon Tong
Kowloon
Tel 2265 7168

G/F Florida Mansion
9-11 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2511 0300
Fax 2511 0326