Eat Drink Hong Kong

Seng Tau Village,
Shap Sze Heung
off Sai Sha Road
Sai Kung,
NT
Tel: 2791 2684        French

Shop 5 G/F Union Mansion
33-35 Chatham Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2391 7386

Stepping off of Leighton Road and into Agnes B is like stepping into a little corner of Paris. Or rather the Paris of a bygone era. It’s hard not to be impressed by the decor. From vintage style floor tiles and the panelling on the walls to the brass light fittings and antique clock.

Dark wooden furnishings set with crisp white table linen complete the scene whilst net curtains hung from a brass rail at half window height blocks Leighton Road from view. The attention to detail is meticulous.

The only thing to give the game away is the very modern background music.

I took a table in the corner from where I could see the whole restaurant. It was still early so there were not too many customers yet, the waiter brought me a menu and then showed me the daily blackboard. The blackboard options were interesting but I decided to stay with the main menu.

They were about to introduce a whole new wine menu a day or two after I was there so the only wine they had left that I could order by the glass was a red. I didn’t catch the name, I’m a bit of a slacker when it comes to wine, but it was very agreeable.

I already knew that I wanted French onion soup ($58). I’m not a huge fan of soups generally. I like them well enough but I tend to think that a soup course is often more than I really need. But I make an exception for French onion soup. The dish is a firm favourite of mine and a good one will always be rewarded with repeat custom.

But before that I had ordered a dish called Gravadlax ($98). This is dill-cured salmon served with a sweet mustard sauce and a light salad. I’d thought some rye or brown bread might be served with it but it was not forthcoming. Not to worry, I still had some in the bread basked that had arrived when I sat down.

The onion soup came next and it was all I could have hoped for. I tried to take it slowly and savour it but I’m afraid I failed and before long I was mopping out the bottom of the red ceramic dish in which it was served with the remains of the bread basket.

I celebrated its departure with a large draft of wine and listened to the music. It was completely out of context with the surroundings but it was a pleasing contrast. It was a fairly laid back sound, gentle but not spineless.

My listening was interrupted by the grilled rack of lamb ($258) that I had ordered. Three meaty cutlets served with potatoes and another salad. It was good but I did feel the lamb deserved a little something more than just a salad. Asparagus perhaps, some carrot or green peas. It didn’t worry me all that much and to be honest if I had not already had salad with the gravadlax it probably would have bothered me at all.

For dessert I chose pear with raspberries, strawberries and black currant. All served with a scoop of home made vanilla ice cream ($68). Delicious.

I rounded off with a coffee and sat listening to the music for a while. It was a good meal in a very pleasant environment. But it is the French onion soup that will keep bringing me back.

Shop 1, Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 2718

G/F 79a Wong Nai Chung Road
Happy Valley
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 2202

29/F Hotel LKF
Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3518 9330

G/F 13 Knutsford Terrace
Tsimshatsui
Knutsford
Tel 2316 2212

I don’t get myself over to Kowloon side very often. Very slack of me I admit because there is no shortage of excellent places to eat. Fate took me over there the other afternoon, so as soon as I was free I made a beeline for Knutsford Terrace.

I’d been planning to check out all the options along the Terrace and in Observatory Court but then the rain beat me to it. Fortunately I was right outside BB’s Bistro which had been high on the list of possibilities anyway. So I decided to dive inside and save the research for more clement weather.

The good thing about wet weather is that there are fewer people out and about. On previous occasions when I’d thought about dining at BB’s it has always looked very busy. This time I almost had the place to myself.

A friendly waiter showed me to a table by the window and we chatted briefly about the new Premier League football season while another went to fetch the menus and a blackboard with the days oysters options.

I declined the oysters but I did order a glass of very nice Chilean Sauvignon to read the menu with.

The menu is very French and I’m sure I would have been happy with just about anything but one that took my fancy for starters was the Salted Codfish, with Bell Pepper, Asparagus and Mozzarella ($82). It also had mango but that was fine by me, I love mango.

The dish was presented as a neat little tower over which the waiter ground some black pepper. It tasted as good as it looked and I demolished it with gusto.

For the main course I had Loin of black pork with polenta and glazed vegetables ($188). A thick and juicy cut of pork on a polenta base topped with carrots and onions and garlic.

The waiter kept stopping by for a little banter, his way of making sure everything was OK without having to repeat the same question for every course.

For desert he recommended the Rhubarb Confit with Oranges and Candied Fennel ($52). A comparatively new dish to the menu he informed me. And one that I expect to be on the menu for some time to come.

Quite a few more guests had arrived by now and despite the weather the restaurant was doing well. I finished with a coffee and splashed off into the night telling myself that I really must get over this side more often.

G/F 12 Sing Woo Road
Happy Valley
Hong Kong
Tel 2893 6900

6/F The Pemberton
Bonham Strand
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2544 6333

Basement and G/F, Podium Plaza
5 Hanoi Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3169 3361

Basement and G/F, Podium Plaza
5 Hanoi Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3169 3361

G/F 31 Elgin Street
Soho
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 9880

G/F 31 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 9880

G/F 45 Elgin Street
Soho
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 9880

G/F 45 Elgin Street
Soho
Central,
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 8318
Tel 2526 8316

1/F 60 Johnston Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2528 1286

Although the address is Johnston Road the entrance, or at least the one I found, is round the corner on Ship Street up a short flight of steps. What is nice about this is the terrace where, on a balmy evening, one can sit outside with a few trees to break up the hard line of the buildings but without so much of the roar of Wanchai.

Being an early diner I had the terrace to myself for the most part of my meal and I was a pleasant evening indeed.

There is a full menu with individual prices but there are also set dinner prices, $238 for three courses or $258 for four. These include whatever choices you want from the menu anyway. I decided to forego the soup and opt for the three courses.

I also opted for a red wine there are several you can order by the glass I chose an Australian Merlot.

The menu is typically French and made up mostly of tried and trusted dishes. For starter I had the smoked salmon stuffed with Alaskan king crab and topped off with avocado. The two rolls of salmon and crab looked quite small but the are deceptive. They were in fact tightly rolled and quite substantial.

This was followed by a generous serving roast lamb rolled with spinach and ham. This came with carrots and green beans on a bed of potato.

For dessert I was intrigued by the idea of frozen cheesecake. I remember as a student buying frozen cheesecake at the supermarket. Not knowing they were supposed to be defrosted first I happily ate them frozen.

This was a more delicate portion than I used to give myself back then. To be honest it had the taste and texture of good old vanilla ice cream but it didn’t melt so readily. I enjoyed it all the same.

QRE Plaza, 202 Queen’s Road East
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2575 0939

Conrad Hong Kong
Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Tel 2521 3838
Fax 2521 3888

G/F 62 Hollywood Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2542 1991
Fax 2542 1922

36b Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2899 2244

2/F, 90 Stanley Main Street
Stanley
Hong Kong
Tel 2813 4822

G/F, 23 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2810 0771
Fax 2810 0671

G01B The Plaza
Discovery Bay
Lantau
New Territories
Tel 2987 8203

1/F California Tower
30-32 D’Aguilar Street
Lan Kwai Fong
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 3880
Fax 2147 3456

Guest Review

The restaurant is conveniently located along Graham Street (where else?) in Soho, just down from the busy and sometimes rowdy Staunton Street.

The walls are completely covered with an eclectic mix of pictures, from a scenic photo of France to ancient Egyptian alphabets. It has almost become a home-from-home for lots of regulars.

It is busy lunchtime and evening, and you should check ahead if going in the evening - they will let you know when a table is likely to be free.

Cafe Graham is so casual and relaxed that you can dine alone, in pairs, or a big group of friends, and still be yourself. It has friendly staff and cosy seats. I’ve been there alone and I didn’t look weird or geeky or miserable at all - sitting alone in a corner having my meal while playing on my PSP (at least I think so). I’ve been there for dates and I didn’t feel any bit less romantic - I actually felt more relaxed with my partner. I’ve been there in groups of three, four, five, and so on - we had a great party. By the way, the restaurant takes reservations for private parties too - it should be able to accommodate around 30 people or so.

The food is mainly French basics, and well done - presentation is up to standard, meat is tender, fish is crisply pan fried, pasta is surprisingly healthy with home-made sauces, desserts are rich in flavour and most importantly, the price is very economical.

I always go for a lobster bisque to start with, then tomato-sauce shrimp with salad greens, followed by a sole fillet with vegetables. And if I still have space to accomodate dessert, a chocolate mud cake. The serving size is always generous, and on top of that, you can choose to have vegetables, rice or spaghetti to go with your main meal. My other favourites include the baked escargots, duck breast glazed with honey, grilled lamb cutlets with herbs, beef stroganoff and braised lamb shank.

Prices for a main meal range from HK$50-120. If you want to have good French and European cuisine with bargain prices, this would be the place to go. To top it all, the price of house wine starts at only HK$100 per bottle

Four Seasons Hotel
8 Finance Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3196 8888

I have to be honest, you need deep pockets to dine at Cepage. It’s the first Hong Kong outlet for Singapore’s Les Amis Group and is located on Wing Fung Street right next to Pacific Place 3.

I don’t have deep pockets I’m afraid but I was keen to give it a try, so I decided to stop by and see how far my budget would go. They are still waiting for their alcohol licence to be approved so that helped me a little. If you are planning a visit you can bring your own wine, you won’t be charged corkage. But I do suggest you call in advance to check.

The dining area is actually on the first floor. The ground is an elegant but discreet lobby where a lift takes you to the restaurant proper. There aren’t many tables and most of them were already booked. That said, there is no such thing as a bad table. Mine was one of a group of three away from the main dining room though there couldn’t have been more than seven or eight even there. Each table has it’s own chandelier, crisp white linen, and allows generous elbow room for a party of four.

Ol’ blue eyes croons away in the background, napkins are positioned and the first of several surprise treats are delivered. This was a delicious canapé of truffle ice cream in a tiny cone decorated with poppy seeds. A little explosion of flavour to get proceedings underway.

Shortly after this the menu and bread basket arrived. Service was friendly and efficient but at no time hurried. I like this, it allows me to enjoy the atmosphere. The only change I would have made would be to tweak Frank Sinatra’s volume up a bit.

I placed my order and was rewarded with a slice of smoked salmon with rosti and julienne cucumber.

The first dish I’d actually ordered was was smoked pigeon with caramelised endive and truffle vinaigrette ($230). It was an inspired choice and I almost wished I had ordered two. The bird was smoked with hickory and was as tender and succulent as I could have hoped for.

The next dish was angel-hair pasta with chilli du Monteporro and lobster oil ($340). According to the menu this is usually made with crab but crab dishes were not available on this particular day. The chef was able to offer the same dish made with shrimp so I agreed to that.

Although it is a chilli dish it is not spicy - the full flavour of the chilli comes through without the heat. The waiter informed me that this dish comes from one very small region in Italy.

Dessert was Grand Marnier parfait in a chocolate cone with orange tuile and citrus fruit salad ($150).

I’d been looking forward to an early night and coffee would have put the kibosh on that idea. However the petit fours and chocolates that would have accompanied the coffee were still delivered.

Cepage has three private dining rooms which can accommodate groups from four up to fifteen persons.

G/F 117 Pak Sha Wan
Sai Kung
New Territories
Tel 2243 1918

G/F Arbuthnot House
10 Arbuthnot Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2801 6768

G/F, 8-9 Sun Street
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2527 1408

22-26 Peel Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2541 1401

G/F, 9 Gage Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 2621
Fax 2900 0346

17/F 525 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3907 0090

1/F 102 Austin Road
Jordan
Kowloon
Tel 3526 1228

G/F 23 Whitfield Road
Tin Hau
Hong Kong
Tel 2512 2003

This is a cosy little French restaurant on Whitfield Road in North Point. I’m sure it does a roaring trade at lunch times but in the evenings, when all the office staff have left the area, there doesn’t seem to be many customers around. That, of course, makes it a perfect spot for a quiet and romantic interlude. Alas, I was on my own.

But I wasn’t about to let that spoil my enjoyment. Even empty the restaurant has a lot of atmosphere. A variety of oil paintings line the walls while screens and a lamp help break up the rectangular shape of the room. A flagstone floor and art deco light fittings create the impression of a small bistro somewhere in Paris in the 1950s.

An intelligent selection of background music, that included selections by Edith Piaf and Django Reinhardt/Stéphane Grappelli’s Hot Five’s amongst others, completed the illusion.

It is a set menu but there are a range of options. The prices are $298 or $328 depending on you choice of entrée. I ordered glass of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon ($65) and thought about it.

The first course was soup. There was a choice between Clam Chowder and Seafood. I had opted for the latter which I found to be very agreeable.

This was followed by a rather delicious pan-seared foie gras. The outside was thin and crisp, the inside creamy and rich and absolutely bursting with flavour. There were several other options on the menu but when I make a return visit I know I’m going to find it hard to pass this one up in favour of something else.

The main course was Roast Suckling Pig. Served with asparagus and potato the flavour of the meat was wonderfully balanced with rosemary and thyme. Succulent and tender and with a beautifully golden and crisp outer skin.

Bringing up the rear was coffee and creme caramel. I did think about asking if there was a cheese board, I didn’t remember seeing it on the menu. But in the end I decided I was already feeling well satisfied so I let it pass.

I paid my bill, which I must say was very reasonable for the quality of the meal, said au revoir and stepped out of the Paris of fifty years ago and back into the Hong Kong of today

38/F Times Tower
393 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2861 1666

5/F Island Beverley
1 Great George Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 2898
Fax 2890 1068

3101 ifc Mall
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2393 3812

The Peninsula Hotel
Salisbury Road
Kowloon
Hong Kong
Tel 2315 3171

G/F 33 Peel Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2544 0389

23 Whitfield Road
Tin Hau
Hong Kong
Tel 2566 8468

L/3 Hong Kong Parkview
88 Tai Tam Reservoir Road
Tai Tam
Hong Kong
Tel 2812 3918

10/F Pinocine Building
80-82 Queen’s Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2869 1499

Lower Lobby, Marco Polo Gateway
Harbour City
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2113 7925

1/F Block 3 Hoover Tower
15 St Francis Yard
Star Street
Wanchai
Tel 2893 5891

G/F 16 St Francis Yard
Star Street
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2866 7337
Fax 2866 7232

The St Francis Yard and Star Street area may be a little out of the way but whenever I go over there I usually find something new and interesting. I find myself wondering if the area could evolve into a new Soho. Certainly those old lanes have lots of character and the lack of traffic would make it ideal for al fresco dining. And indeed the number of restaurants is on the increase.

On this last visit I found a bar and two restaurants that I hadn’t seen before. One of them, a Japanese restaurant had only been open a matter of days. I decided it might be a little unfair to write about them so soon after opening so I wandered round the corner to La Fleur.

This, as the name suggests, is a small French restaurant. The decor is simple but pleasing wood panelling against plain white walls with paintings on the wall.

The menu offers a selection of familiar dishes but this time I decided to give one of the set dinners a try. There were several options at different price points. I chose a three course option at $215. And I also ordered a glass of Chilean Chardonnay to go with it.

The Chardonnay arrived promptly along with the bread basket. I was feeling quite hungry so I laid into the bread with enthusiasm. Bread so often gets overlooked, but these baguettes were good. Crisp on the outside, warm and soft inside. Fortunately the first course arrived before I was able to spoil my appetite.

This was escargot baked in a rich garlic butter and served with creamed potato. The snails were soft and tender and lived up to expectation admirably but they were piping hot when served, I had to wait a few moments for them to cool.

The second course was wild mushroom soup. It was pleasant enough and the waiter did replenish my supply of baguettes but, I have to confess, I find it hard to get enthusiastic about soup. The exception being French onion soup and I neglected to check if that was on the a la carte menu. Though I’m sure it probably was.

The main course was grilled tenderloin with pan fried goose liver served with green beans, broccoli, potato and carrot. Again, the course lived up to expectation. The goose liver was a generous portion. Almost in danger of being too generous as its rich flavour could have overwhelmed the beef.

The meal was good and good value as well. The only disappointment was dessert. The menu offered a choice of three but only the creme brulee was available. I’m more inclined to put that down to my bad luck on the night. In all other areas the service was efficient and prompt.

As I left I walked past St Francis Yard again. It was a cool damp evening but it wasn’t hard to imagine how it could look on a balmy evening with tables and chairs, the chatter of diners and the smell of good food in the air.

4 The Forum
Exchange Square
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2537 2938

2/F LKF Tower
Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2523 0200
Fax 2523 0990

La Terrasse is at the top of Old Bailey Street. I’ve thought about going there loads of times but by the time I’ve trudged up Pottinger Street I give up and go somewhere on Wyndham. However I was up on Caine Road the other afternoon when a sneaky plan formed. I would walk along to the top of Old Bailey Street and walk down the hill.

Problem was that this particular section of Caine Road might as well be a foreign country. I sallied straight past and was well on my way to Glenealy before I realised the error of my ways and had to turn back.

Of course most people would say “Why didn’t you just take a taxi, you great lummock.” It’s a reasonable question and indeed, sometimes I do. But I do like to feel like I’ve earned my dinner by way of a little physical excersise. Twenty yards downhill is just about right in my book. So by the time I arrived, after my little excursion to Glennealy, I was feeling thoroughly deserving.

La Terrasse is a cosy little restaurant. I found myself a seat by the widow surrounded by cushions. I was the first guest for dinner though there was a small group at the bar. Conversation was in French, the background music was French, the menu was in French. I had a feeling that this was going to be good.

There were English translations on the menu but, although my French never did rise above schoolboy level, the ability to read a menu is something I’ve always been quietly proud of.

A glass of Chardonnay was delivered along with a delightfully presented salmon canapé.

I think I would have been happy with anything on the menu. The Fish soup sounded good and so did Filo pastry with four cheeses and almond. But in the end I opted for Terrine de Foie Gras marinée au Vin Doux ($125). This is Chef Rene’s very own home-made Duck liver terrine marinated with muscadel, a musky flavoured white wine.

It was wonderful. I always try to take these things slowly, to savour them and make them last, but it never works. All too soon I find myself staring at an empty plate.

But Chef René was on the case and I didn’t have long to wait for the main course. Filet D’Agneau, sauce crème D’Ail ($195), or Lamb fillet with a creamy garlic sauce. Again this lived up to it’s promise and all too soon I was mopping the last of the delicious sauce with the last of the bread.

Dessert was Crème brûlée ($79) and a coffee. By now more people had arrived but conversation was still in French. I gazed out the window and watched passers-by going down the hill.

G/F Old Bailey Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 2225

28, G/F Tsimshatsui Center
66 Mody Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2724 0707
Fax 2311 0704

38 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2522 9200
Fax 2522 9287

6/F 83 Wan Chai Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 3428 5824

Deepwater Bay Beach
Island Road
Deepwater Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2982 8321

G/F 6 Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 2136
Fax 2526 0404

Shop 2608-2610 Harbour City
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2117 7171
Fax 2117 0155

Shop 189, L1
New Town Plaza Phase 1
Sha Tin
New Territories
Tel 2692 8811
Fax 2692 2448

Le Fauchon is at the quiet end of Staunton Street to the left as you go up the escalator. It’s been there for quite some time, but for some reason I’d never managed to eat there before.

Although there is an upstairs the initial impression one gets is that it is a small cosy restaurant. There are a still lifes on the walls and curtains on the window giving it a country cottage feel. Unfortunately if you sit facing the street, as I was, there is a large neon ‘Exit’ sign overstating the obvious and spoiling what would otherwise be a pleasant setting.

I decided to try and ignore it and turned to the menu. There were several types of oyster and other seafood dishes to choose from as well as a range of salads. I had originally favoured the Ravioli of lobster at $148 but unfortunately it was off that particular evening. The waiter did recommend both the baked escargot in garlic butter and mushrooms and the grilled frogs legs in garlic butter (both $138). I plumped for the frogs legs.

The waiter brought a basket of warm crusty bread and a knob of butter that was so hard it was nearly impossible to cut let alone spread.

The kitchen at La Fauchon is fairly open and the aromas drifting from it were really quite delicious. But it has to be said, since I was the only person in the restaurant, that the sounds drifting from it suggested that the frogs legs were being fried rather than grilled. I was right. They arrived, a neat pile of legs on a plate, I wondered if perhaps I should have ordered a salad to go with them.

Although they may have been lacking somewhat in presentation they tasted good, though a slice of lemon on the side would have been a nice touch. It wasn’t long before the legs had been reduced to a neat pile of bones and I returned my attention to the bread. The butter hadn’t softened up much but I persevered and was soon surrounded by a sea of crumbs.

The main course, roasted quails with braised chestnuts and onions ($168) arrived. Two quails that were tender and tasty served on a bed of julienned carrots and green beans and a small potato. The chestnuts and onions were conspicuous by their absence. Again I wished I had a salad to go with it but I let it pass. At least the quails were good and pretty soon I had created another neat pile of bones and I used what remained of the bread to mop up the sauce.

The dessert menu was all pretty standard fare, American cheesecake, tiramisu etc. all at $48. I went for the chocolate pudding which came drizzled generously with chocolate and strawberry sauces. It was good but the fresh strawberry on the side was indestructible. I gave up trying to cut it with the side of my spoon for fear that I might launch it across the restaurant and actually do some damage.

I ordered coffee but I didn’t linger over it as I usually like to do after a meal. The ‘exit’ sign was reasserting itself so I paid my bill and left.

The problem with La Fauchon is not that it was bad, just unmemorable. Most of most of my grievances could have been fixed with just a little care, effort and attention to detail.

Shop 2028-29 IFC Mall
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2295 3955

Shop 2009 Elements Mall
Kowloon Station
1 Austin Road West
Kowloon
Tel 2196 8488

12/F Ying Kong Mansion
2-6 Yee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 6662
Fax 9183 4962

2076, Level 2 IFC Mall
8 Finance Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2805 5293

G/F 5 Staunton street
Soho,
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2905 1808
Fax 2810 1109

45 Graham street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2523 5459
Fax 2140 6120

I decided to celebrate Bastille day, the other week, by storming Le Tire Bouchon on Graham Street. For those of you that don’t already know, the venerable old restaurant has been serving traditional French cuisine for twenty years. There can’t be many restaurants that have been around that long so I decided it was time to find out why.

The restaurant is quite spacious and decorated in a traditional style. A large double bass on a stage hinted of live jazz but, sadly, not while I was there. There is a large bar area and two private rooms. The smaller one is good for groups of up to 15, the larger one can seat up to 40.

There were a few customers when I arrived but it was still quite early. The waitress took me to my table and promptly produced the menu and a very impressive wine list. Of course, when I’m alone I order by the glass. Even so, it still offered attractive choices. I ordered a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and studied the menu.

I could quite happily have ordered everything and at one point I actually did toy with the idea of ordering two starters but good sense prevailed. The Brittany Fish Soup ($85) and the Toasted Goat Cheese served with Semi-Dried Tomatoes ($90), I decided, would have to wait until next time. Today I was going to have the Seared Scallops in a Cognac & Black Peppercorn Cream Sauce ($110).

It was an excellent choice, the scallops were plump and juicy, the sauce, rich and creamy. I tried to pace myself, to make them last as long as I could, but they were so delicious it was an effort not to gobble them down in seconds. Even so it was not long before I was looking at an empty plate yearning for more.

The waitress was along promptly to tidy me up and bring new cutlery. The main course was not long in coming.

For this I had decided on the Veal Stewed in a Mushroom and Carrot Cream Sauce ($170). It was another excellent choice. By this time, having already coveted the dishes that other guests were enjoying, I had decided there probably wasn’t a weak choice on the menu. The veal stew was served with rice garnished with asparagus.

It was quite delicious and, as with the scallops, I made short work of it before throwing all sense of decorum to the wind and mopping up the sauce with the last of the bread rolls.

I took a polite break, leaned back in my chair and rested for a while. There was music playing, a female singer - it could have been Edith Piaf, it could have been Ella Fitzgerald but it was too soft to even recognise. But it didn’t matter, it just drifted in between the gentle murmur of voices. It all was very restful.

I finished my wine and turned my attention to the dessert menu. There were the familiar items such as cheesecakes but, while I’m sure they would all be very good, I tend to look for things that are a little different. This time I found Pear Mousse with Walnut Nougat ($65). That, followed by coffee was a delightful way to round off a wonderful meal.

1/F Hotel Nikko
72 Mody Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2131 4221

Flat 4B Tak Fat Building
50-52 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 6438 3363

M20-28 Prince’s Building
10 Chater Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2523 8989

49 Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2803 2253 or 3481 3280

2A, 75-77 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3101 2828

3/F Parekh House
63 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2868 4388

G10, G/F Site 9, Whampoa Garden
Hung Hom
Kowloon
Tel 2189 7092

This is a small restaurant just off Star Street at the Admiralty end of Wanchai that specialises in French/European styles. It is a very simple unpretentious place with just a few tables. It is spacious, clean and friendly.

There is a set menu for $195 which includes starter, main course and dessert, but it still offers a reasonable selection of dishes to choose from. But for a restaurant of this size I was rather surprised at the number of wines that it has to offer. I’m no wine expert but it did seem that some of the other guests were there for the wine rather than the food.

I ordered a glass of house red. The waitress did show me the bottle but I was so absorbed in the menu that, I confess, I wasn’t paying attention. It was a pleasant fruity wine and I was quite happy with it.

For starters I ordered smoked Herring with boiled potato. It was a decent piece of herring thought the potato could perhaps have done with another minute or two cooking. It didn’t stop me eating it though.

For main course I ordered the lamb stew in white wine sauce. This was served simply with plain boiled rice. It was pleasant enough but apart from some carrot in the stew Itself there were no vegetables. It needed some.

Dessert was chocolate mousse washed down with a good hot coffee.

Olala is a no-frills restaurant, the food was perfectly edible and at the price point there really isn’t much to complain about. But I do feel that a a little more attention to detail would turn a decent little eatery into a little gem.

That said if you are looking for a quick, no-fuss, hot dinner that is not burger related than Olala is just the ticket

I would have spotted this place if it wasn’t for the blaze of Chinese New Year decorations outside. At least I think they were New Year decorations, I must confess I didn’t look at them that closely. It’s at the top of a short hill just off of Star Street and curiosity got the better of me so up I trundled.

Once there I decided it would have been a wasteful exercise if I didn’t stop and have something to eat so I went inside.

It’s quite a spacious restaurant with tables that are reasonably well spaced out. The decor, at first glance, looks quite simple but what seems like a random collection of cupboards, shelves and welsh dressers do a very good job of invoking the atmosphere of and old small town hotel.

There were a few pictures scattered around the walls but what really caught my attention was a large framed photograph of a really impressive pig. I immediately thought of Empress of Blandings from the PG Wodehouse novels. From a distance the animal looked like a huge potato with four small legs and a snout.

The background music was a French diva who I didn’t recognise but it was pleasant enough. The menu is also in French though there are English translations alongside. I decided to start with the Norwegian smoked fish platter ($180).

While I waited I tucked into a deliciously fresh baguette which had been delivered with a small clay pot of pate.

The fish was duly delivered an featured slices of eel, herring and salmon arranged around a little thicket of arugula and served with a slice of lemon. I do enjoy smoked fish but it is not all that common in this part of the world. I made mental note to return again soon.

For main course I had ordered the roast leg of lamb ($220). This was served in a very simple, home-cooking style. The lamb was tender an succulent and came with creamed potato.

I don’t drink a lot of wine but I do enjoy a glass with a meal. But I have to say the red from Haut-Brisson ($80), which was the only one available by the glass was very pleasant indeed. Smooth and mellow, a touch of spice with a hint of blackcurrants.

To finish off I ordered the mango cake ($60) which came in it’s own sea of chilled mango puree.

As I left I noticed that there was also an Olala deli on Star Street. Another good reason to come back soon.

G/F 1 Electric Street
Wanchai
Tel 2294 O450

34 Gough Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2155 9210

131 Tseng Tau Village
Shap Sze Heung
Sai Kung
New Territories
Tel 2791 2684

G/F 1-3 Bartlock Centre
3 Yiu Wah Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 6292

1 Hoi Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 3111

65 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2537 5702

Shop 2-3 G/F AIA Plaza
18 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3427 8808

G/F 4-8 Arbuthnot Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 2389

25/F Mandarin Oriental Hotel
5 Connaught Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2825 4001

33/F Times Tower
391-407 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Tel 2834 5565

Shop 9, 1/F Causeway Centre
28 Harbour Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2802 1323

9-10 Knutsford Steps
2/F Miramar Shopping Centre
132 Nathan Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3168 2000

Island Shangri-la
Pacific Place
Supreme Court Road
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 2877 3838
Fax 2521 8742

2/F Onfem Tower
29 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 1681

4/F The Landmark
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2166 9000

7 Knutsford Steps
2/F Miramar Shopping Centre
132 Nathan Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2521 2166
Fax 2868 2692

G/F 24 Hollywood Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 2028

G/F Hon Man Mansion
9-11 Wing Hing Street
Tin Hau
Hong Kong
Tel 2503 3222

Shop A, U G/F On Hing Building
1 On Hing Terrace
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2868 0234

Intercontinental Hong Kong
18 Salisbury Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2313 2256

1/F, 45 Sing Woo Road
Happy Valley
Hong Kong
Tel  2833 6083

2/F The Repulse Bay
109 Repulse Bay Road
Repulse Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2292  2822

G/F 49 Graham Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 2624