Eat Drink Hong Kong

13/F Henry House
42 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 2928

G/F 153 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2122 9795

I found a branch of Al Dente I didn’t know about the other day. This one is on Jaffe Road in Wanchai. I must admit, it’s not really the kind of place where I would have gone looking for a nice little ‘hole in the wall’ type Italian restaurant. It’s on the unfashionable part of the road beyond the bridge that leads to Central Plaza and the immigration department.

As I was walking by I caught what sounded suspiciously like the ivory tickling of Art Tatum. Before I knew what had happened I was sitting there with a glass of red wine in one hand, a menu in the other and some truly nifty piano playing wafting through the air.

It really is quite a small place, long and narrow with seating for no more than about 30 people. It was not too full when I arrived but several of the tables had been pushed together in preparation for what looked like a group of 12-14. The table by the door also had a large reserved sign on it. This was the middle of the week and I was beginning to feel decidedly lucky to have got a table without making a reservation first.

For starters I ordered the Fungi Ala Griglia ($79). This consisted of two plump portobello mushrooms, char grilled and topped with goats cheese, and served on a bed of lettuce and arugula with tomatoes. I love these mushrooms and the char grilling really brought out the rich earthy flavour. I was most impressed.

So impressed that I hadn’t noticed the Art Tatum CD had finished and been replaced with what sounded suspiciously like Kenny G.

It wasn’t long before the main course arrived. I had originally ordered a veal dish but veal had been unavailable on this particular evening. The waiter, instead, offered me a variation made with fillet of chicken ($149).

The chicken was layered with spinach, sage, cheese and proscuitto, served on a bed of creamed potato with a truffle and mushroom sauce. This, I decided, was a very happy alternative to the veal.

By now the restaurant had filled up and there were still people arriving, hoping to get a table. I ordered a mixed berry crumble with ice cream ($48) for dessert.

I was feeling quite full - all the servings had been generous, and would be perfect for sharing. Which is just what the diners on the adjacent table table were doing and I couldn’t help but smile knowingly as they admired their newly arrived portobello mushrooms.

I paid my bill and, much to the relief of the hungry faces outside, went off in search of Delaneys and a pint of Kilkenny for the road.

79 Bonham Strand
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2827 8277

LG/ F 132, Festival Walk
Kowloon Tong
Kowloon
Tel 2265 8828 or 2845 4600

1/F 83 Lockhart Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Wanchai
Tel 2866 1918

126 Stanley Main Street
Stanley
Hong Kong
Tel 2813 9090

Kowloon Shangri-La
64 Mody Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2733 8901

11-12 Tonochy Tower
254-272 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2877 7030

29+30/F 1 Peking Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 3427 2288

Level 2, Chater House
11 Chater Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2805 0028

2/F 1 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2801 5885

Baci is one of those restaurants that has been around for so long that it is almost embarrassing to admit that I’d never been there. I was forced to confront the situation a few days ago when a friend asked me if I’d been over to try out the new menu. After thinking for a few moments I had to confess that I hadn’t even tried the old menu.

So I set out the other evening to rectify the issue. I had hoped to talk my friend into coming with me but we couldn’t find a mutually agreeable date before she flew out. So undeterred I went alone.

I got there just after seven and the bar already had a considerable number of people who had stopped by a for an after work drink. I went straight through to the dining area. The restaurant is on the 2nd and 3rd floors (Baci Pizza is on the 1st). The decor is sleek and chic with gold and mirrored walls and simple but comfortable furniture.

I was shown to a table on the second floor. Neither of the floors are big, on my floor there were only seven tables offering seating for a maximum of 18 people. I settled into my chair and ordered a glass of fruity Vale Viognier ($78). The bread basket arrived and I delved into the menu.

Although a few favourites have been retained the majority of the items boast a ‘new’ symbol next to them. They all sounded good.

For starters I was tempted to order the Crab salad with carrots and mango ($108) but in the end I plumped for the Carpaccio Arcobaleno ($118). This is very thinly sliced pieces of smoked salmon, tuna and swordfish with extra virgin olive oil and arugula leaves. I was pleased. The fish was tasty and melted in the mouth. It didn’t last long and soon I was mopping up the olive oil with the remains of the bread basket.

For the main course I’d narrowed my choices down to home made ravioli stuffed with duck and goose liver ($198) and roasted lamb loin in porcini mushroom sauce ($228). I opted for the lamb.

The dish took rather longer to arrive than I would have expected. I put this down to the chefs pursuit of excellence, for when it did arrive it proved to be well worth waiting for. The lamb, rolled in rosemary and breadcrumbs, was both tender and succulent. Served with deliciously creamy creamed potatoes and, of course, the mushroom sauce. In light of this it seemed silly to worry about a few extra minutes wait.

For dessert I ordered baked custard tart with pine nuts and also asked for coffee to be served with the dessert. It was another long wait. This time, after the dish had arrived, I couldn’t help thinking that perhaps I should have opted for the home made ice cream. The tart was pleasant enough but had I known I was going to wait twenty minutes for it I might have thought again.

It was a shame the delays marred what would otherwise have been a very pleasant meal indeed. I prefer to think these are just minor issues that are associated with the kitchen staff getting used to preparing a whole new menu and before long everything will be running smoothly.

I drank my coffee slowly and began to mentally compose the report I would later e-mail to my friend.

G/F 12 Sing Woo Road
Happy Valley
Hong Kong
Tel 2893 6900

9A Wing Lock House
1 Lock Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 6372 3242

2/F Grand Progress Building
15-16 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 9000

DiscoBay
Tel 2914 1906

36b Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2899 2244

Shop 1, G/F Jervois House
1 Jervois Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2517 8484
Fax 2517 8585

Shop 1, G/F Jervois House
Jervois Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2517 8484

This is a funky little hideaway in Sheung Wan where the building gets so narrow you’d think that there couldn’t be room for anything in side. Luckily There is just enough room for a kitchen and a about four tables.

One side is little more than an alcove. One of the tables has been tailored into the curve of the wall. Above it there is a gallery of old black and white prints of film stars from the forties and fifties.

The menu reflects the flavours of the southern Italian countryside from Rome to Sicily. According to the menu the recipes have been passed down through the generations using the simplest of cooking methods. They use fresh Mediterranean ingredients with fewer dairy products.

I started with crisp and flavourful Insalata di Spinaci ($52). This, quite simply, is baby spinach with pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes and parmesan cheese with a balsamic dressing.

I’d been slightly disappointed that bread needed to be ordered separately. But since quality Italian restaurants for the budget-conscious are something of a rarity anyway. So I decided to forgive them.

In the end I was glad not to have had bread because my second dish of the evening, Melanzane all Parmigiana ($48) was really quite filling. This consisted of layers of eggplant and mozzarella cheese baked in a rich tomato sauce.

The pasta I had ordered, Penne Ciociara ($80), is from the Lazio region just to the south of Rome. It’s a marvellously sharp and tangy dish mad with olives, capers, anchovies and pine nuts with just a few raisins as a counterpoint. I’m not sure if it is a dish that rarely appears on menus or if I’ve simply overlooked it in the past. But it is certainly one that I will be remembering in the future.

I finished off with a slice of cheesecake and a coffee.

Cafe Roma are happy to prepare food for take-away and also serve breakfast, afternoon tea and sandwiches.

G/F Jervois House
1 Jervois Street
Sheung Wan
Tel 2517 8484

Shop 22B Cityplaza
Taikoo Shing
Hong Kong
Tel 2904 8676

Shop OT G63 Harbour City
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3101 0901

I’ve been hot on the trail of Italian flavours for the budget conscious all week. It’s not easy to find but one place that is worth a look is Caffe Vergnano 1882. There are three branches I stumbled into the Branch in Elements.

It’s a straight forward open fronts mall type eatery. Functional, not fancy. The menu outside offered a special of deep fried seafood plus a glass of house wine for $88. I decided that would be my starter so I went in and found myself a table.

There were a few customers but not too many. I found myself a corner at the back and perused the menu. There was a respectable range of pasta dishes with prices ranging from about $60 upwards. Twelve-inch Italian style pizza started at around $150. There were also salads and a range of sandwiches.

I ordered the seafood and a glass of white which turned out to be a pleasant Chardonnay. The seafood consisted of calamari, scallops, prawns, and mussels. For dipping there was a tangy and mildly spicy tomato salsa.

It may have been somewhat lacking in presentation but otherwise it would be hard to find fault. The lack of a bread basket had not gone unnoticed but when you are looking for quality budget dining something has to give.

For the main course I had ordered rack of lamb ($178). Again the presentation was simple but the lamb, cooked in rosemary, was succulent and tasty. It was served with broccoli. I Had expected some potato as well but there was none so If you are particularly hungry you might want to consider a pasta dish.

For dessert I ordered a panna-cotta ($35). The coffee list is quite impressive offering no less than 26 different ways of serving it, both hot and cold. I rounded my meal off with a banino ($39) which was a sort of combination of Ice coffee and Banana shake.

There is no candle-lit romance and the waiters will not fuss over you but after a weary afternoon of shopping it does the job.

Excelsior Hotel
281 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2837 6780

I’d been down in the Dickens Bar having a swift pint with on old friend who was on whirlwind business trip. I admit I’d been half expecting that we would get into one of those ‘just like the old days’ marathon drinking sessions. But it was not to be. He managed to fit me in between his last meeting and his taxi to the airport.

I watched him bundle his suitcase into the back of the taxi. It was good to see the old rogue but I was secretly grateful that I wasn’t going to have one of those ‘just like the old days’ Wednesday morning hangovers. But, since I was here I might as well take advantage of the situation.

I turned about and headed back into the Excelsior Hotel and up to Cammino on the first floor. Cammino with it’s wooden shuttered windows and terra cotta tiling, is a little corner of Tuscany. The atmosphere is informal and the staff friendly, attentive and indeed prompt. A glass of fruity Primitivo di Puglia ($80 for a large one) was produced before I’d even made up my mind on a starter.

I’d narrowed the choices down to either the Antipasto Toscano which consisted of cured meats, goats cheese and marinated vegetables ($138) or the Forest Mushroom Ragout on a baked Portobello Mushroom ($108).

The cured meats won the day and I was treated to a selection of salami and parma ham and cheese served on an impressively large glass plate with salad, artichokes, sun-dried tomato and a generous slice of chilled rock melon.

The bread basket was also generous. Five different types served with roasted garlic, butter and balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

For a main course I ordered the oven roasted rack of lamb with herb garlic crust ($248). The dish was handsomely presented with creamed potato and a balsamic sauce. The lamb was tender and juicy and was again, a generous portion.

Two other items on the menu that were jostling for attention were the pan fried sole ($288) and the linguine with Boston lobster which can be ordered as a starter ($128) or as a main course ($188).

Personally I prefer to have pasta at lunchtime. If I eat pasta at dinner I often find I’m too full and lose interest in dessert.

This evenings dessert was the minted woodland berry compote with mascarpone cheese mouse. Although it is called a cheese it’s flavour is very creamy and is a perfect accompaniment for the tartness of the fruit.

I rounded off with a coffee. Leaning back I thought about my friend, he must be about queuing to board by now I guessed. I thought about what options he would have on his in-flight menu and would he go for the fish or the chicken.

1/F 5 Moreton Terrace
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 8383

G/F 61 Caine Road
Mid Levels
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 3488

43 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 5500
Fax 2147 5757

2/F Dundas Square
43H Dundas Street
Mongkok
Kowloon
Tel 2388 8202

G/F Starcrest Building
9 Star Street
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2529 0199

Basement, The Lee Gardens
33 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2907 3399

6/F Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel
Harbour City
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2113 0808
Fax 2113 0222

R001, 3/F Elements Mall
1 Austin Road West
Kowloon
Tel 2196 8126

10-12, G/F Sunning Plaza
10 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 8013

G/F 73 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2167 8883
Fax 2167 7333

2 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2523 3123

16-17/F L’Hart, 487 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 6100

4/F Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 2111 1197

1/F JIA Boutique Hotel
1-5 Irving Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 6628

2/F Sun Hung Kai Center
30 Harbour Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2598 7222

I’ve been mulling this one over for a while. There were, in fact, two restaurants here in the past, an Italian and an Indian. It seems they have merged and become one and the menu now offers choices from both. I was curious to see if I could mix them. I had my doubts but I was willing to give it a try.

It’s a spacious restaurant with modern but simple decor. It was early evening when I was there so it was not too busy. I took a table in the corner away from the few people that were there. For some this might have seemed a little lonely but I was quite happy with it.

After mulling the menu for quite some time I decided that an equal balance would be out of the question but what might work would be to go for something that was essentially Italian but then to spice it up with an Indian dish.

That also settled the question of beer or wine and a glass of Pinot Grigiot was ordered. For me beer is the perfect accompaniment for Indian food but even the bread basket, which came with a delicious dip made with sun-dried tomato and olive oil demanded wine.

The first dish to arrive was an Italian starter, Vitello Rosa Su Salsa a la Tonno ($138). This is very thinly sliced veal on a creamed tuna and topped with capers and anchovy. It was delicious and would be a perfect start to any Italian meal.

Following it this time, however, was Fettucine a la Bolognese ($133) and Peri Peri Prawns ($78). I’d gone for the bolognese partly because it is the evergreen Italian choice and wasn’t going to give me any surprises. But also because my son had been back from his first term at university and was looking for ideas for things he could cook on a student budget. I’d shown him my student version of bolognese and I was keen to reacquaint myself with the genuine article.

The prawns are grilled and served on skewers with a mild curry sauce. I’d always believed peri peri to be African in origin but the spices used here were definitely Indian and there was Indian bread to go with it but after the pasta I really didn’t need much more.

Both the fettucine and the prawns were excellent and I enjoyed the meal greatly. That said I’m not sure I would choose to mix them up this way again. Where this idea does score is when you are organising dinner with a large group of friends. Having two different cuisines available helps to accommodate more tastes. There are plenty of vegetarian choices as well.

I finished off with Pistachio Cake and dark Cocoa Sauce ($58). The Indian options included the ever popular Gulab Jamun which I love but I decided they would be just a bit too rich this time.

Duetto
2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre
30 Harbour Road
Wanchai
Tel. 2598 1222

A couple of weeks ago, we noticed a new place opening just next door to the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Road, so when the chance came for a ‘ladies who lunch’ meeting, four of us booked into Duo.

It’s a sleek-looking place, with high ceiling, wooden floor, stylish but comfy seating, and enough space to give you some privacy. Ceiling high shelves hold some shiny knick-knacks and books which relax the look a little. At 1.30pm on a Wednesday, it was fairly busy, though not full. Strangely, for an Italian restaurant, the music playing softly was vaguely middle-eastern.

The friendly staff directed us to a centre table, and after we sadly rejected the extensive wine menu (it WAS lunchtime!) bustled off to fetch some sparkling water.

We were a little disappointed to discover there were no lunch specials, but I expect the restaurant is still a little bit new for that yet, so we turned to the main menu. A fairly diverse affair, with everything from open salad bar ($140, and it looked tempting), to a couple of burgers, to veal (at $320 a little deep for our pockets), and variety of pastas in the $100-150 range.

While pulling apart some crusty bread to dip into pesto, I decided you should always check out the spaghetti bolognese at a new Italian. My companions chose Quattro-formagio conchiglie, Penne arrabbiata, and a vegetarian risotto. All arrived together - in medium sized portions on enormous plates.

My bolognese at first bite was tasty. Of course its hard to get wrong, but the meat seemed high quality, and the sauce had just the right amount of oil to not smother it. Not as good as Mothers, though.

As for what I was allowed to taste of the other dishes, the four cheeses were almost overwhelming, but I noticed the plate got polished off even so. I’ve come to expect arrabbiata to be excessively spicy, and am not fond of getting my tongue burned, but this one was toned down a little, probably to cater for local tastes - which suited me fine. The risotto was pronounced ‘a little stiff’, but otherwise adequate.

As can happen with pasta, we were all full, but had managed to save enough room for a couple of bites of dessert. Almost everything on the dessert menu was chocolaty, except some sorbets, so we decided to share the ‘tiramisu boccata’ (which means a mouthful). Luckily it wasnt quite as small as billed, and we all managed a couple of little spoonfuls, and it really was delicious. I didn’t want to alarm my friends by then ordering another for myself, so we went ahead with a couple of coffees to wrap up the meal.

All in all it was a pleasant, relaxing lunch, and at $763 for 4 people, not overly priced. I imagine the restaurant’s main business however, will be the evening crowd. With its location under a glamorous new apartment block, and away from the bustle of Soho, it should attract a low key crowd with money to spend (I will go back for that veal one day!).

204-205 Chater House
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2805 0028

Shop 3, G/F Wu Chung House
213 Queen’s Road East
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2126 7020

Shop 102, 1/F Elizabeth House
Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2574 6263

Shops U/G 11-12 Metro City Plaza II
Tseung Kwan O
New Territories
Tel 3194 4880

G/F 49 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2973 6808

35 Ashley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2730 4788

B/F Shop B, The Pinnacle
8 Minden Avenue
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2730 4788

60, Po Tung Road
Sai Kung
New Territories
Tel 2792 0898

Shop 2 Knutsford Steps
1/F Miramar Shopping Center
132 Nathan Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2375 9138

Shop 11, Sai Kung Building
42-56 Fuk Man Road
Sai Kung
New Territories
Tel 2791 1913

G/F Grande Millennium Plaza
181 Queen’s Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2167 8200
Fax 2167 8220

It was a balmy evening. I couldn’t feel the breeze but there must have been one because the leaves on the tree above were moving. Behind me was the sound of a fountain splashing and from somewhere else a clock chimed seven. A waiter glided over with a bread basket and menu, another one lit the candle on my table.

I love the twilight, the light has finished but the dark has not yet begun. I was wallowing in the atmosphere. Another waiter approached carrying bottles. I was wallowing and not paying attention.

“I’ll have a look at the menu before I decide on wine’, I said. “No, no”, he replied, “would you like olive oil for the bread?” I sat up and looked at the bottles. They didn’t look anything like wine bottles really but, as I said, I wasn’t paying attention. “Oh, yes please,” I said, “and some balsamic vinegar”.

I dunked a large corner of focaccia bread into the oil and watched as a young couple stopped briefly on the steps for a little hug. Italy does that, it brings out the romantic in you, and whilst this certainly wasn’t Italy, it was about as close as you can get to it on the MTR.

I turned my attention to the menu. It was varied and interesting and, as usual in such circumstances, the temptation to over-order is great. Sea scallop stuffed ravioli ($188), and Sangiovese marinated rabbit stew with home-made pasta ($178) were both intriguing but I’d ruled out pasta. Folded pizza with melted soft crescenza cheese and parma ham ($148) also sounded intriguing but I’d ruled out pizza as well. Pasta and Pizza are best shared but, despite the romantic setting, there was only me.

I did fancy some parma ham though, so I ordered some with a basil leaf salad and buffalo mozzarella cheese ($138). As one waiter left with my order another one arrived carrying a small dish, “mushroom risotto” he explained as he put it down. It was about the size of a five dollar coin but it set off a little explosion of flavour that left me feeling very hungry indeed and thinking that perhaps I should have ordered a pizza after all.

I ordered a glass of glass of Pinot Grigio and dived back into the bread basket in search of something to mop up more olive oil. The starter I’d ordered was one of the simpler dishes on the menu, nevertheless it was very satisfying. I wolfed it down in no time and was very tempted to continue my assault on the bread basket, but I didn’t want to spoil my appetite before the main course arrived.

There was, of course, much to choose from on the menu. Pistachio crusted lamb chops with mint infused olive oil ($268) caught my eye as did the Australian black Angus beef with myrtle and raisin. But it was the seared tuna with black pepper on an eggplant puree topped with candied onions and citrus ($258) that won my heart. It was delicious, the tuna was very fresh and tender and the portion was generous.

I tried to take it slowly, to savour every mouthful but all too soon, it seemed, I was staring at an empty plate. Though I have to confess I was glad that I hadn’t ordered the pizza. The clock chimed eight, I decided to wait a few minutes before ordering dessert.

At this point the waiter produced another delightful surprise. Grapes that had been marinated in grappa for seven days, and served in a glass of grappa. It was a wonderful touch but I wanted to save them for last.

For dessert I ordered caramelized apple and puff pastry with honey grappa sauce and vanilla ice cream followed by coffee. The dessert was very nice but it was the grapes that took the curtain call.

G/F 8 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 6128

Yes, yes I know it sounds a bit like a clothes shop but it’s actually not a bad little Italian place on Minden Avenue, around the back of Chungking Mansions. There’s quite a few trendy little cocktail bars down there as well.

Both of these discoveries surprised me. The last time I had been around the back of Chungking Mansions was a very long time ago indeed. Old hands may remember there was a pub called the Blacksmiths Arms around there somewhere but pretty well nothing else.

I’d been up on Granville Road and was trying to find my way back to Star Ferry through those little back-streets that all look the same. Every time I go up that way I do the same thing, and every time I get lost. Still It’s usually a good excuse to stop somewhere and cool off. Last time I accidentally found Fatts Place (I had tried to find it once before but failed). This time I stumbled upon Giardino.

It was a little before seven in the evening, the place seemed reasonably quiet and the staff all had friendly smiles so I went in.

It’s on a corner but the interior is a rather peculiar ‘V’ shaped affair, with one side of the restaurant not being able to see the other. The interior designers handled their task well and turned an odd shape into a cosy little restaurant just perfect for a romantic tryst. Which is just what the only other customers appeared to be enjoying.

I tried to flutter my eyes at the waitress but she merely thought I was ready to order. I asked for a glass of Pinot Grigio and a plate of Grilled Garden Vegetables ($68) and hid behind the menu while I made up my mind what to have for main course.

For an Italian restaurant I thought the bread basket was a little bit spartan, usually Italian restaurants have better bread than most. This one offered only a couple of bread sticks and a single piece of herb bread. I hoped it wasn’t a sign of things to come.

The vegetables were pleasant enough though. They consisted of slices of red and yellow peppers, aubergine (eggplant), and zucchini. Grilled and very lightly salted.

For main course I ordered the grilled swordfish with tomato salsa and a pesto cream sauce ($168). Swordfish is quite dense but flaky. It’s also moist and a little sweet. It was served with some more grilled vegetables on a bed of creamed potatoes and it worked well with the pesto sauce.

There were only four desserts on the menu, all of them quite predictable. I opted for the Strawberry Napoleon ($60). This is essentially layers of strawberries and cream. I’ve never been very complimentary about the quality of strawberries found in Hong Kong but all credit to the chef who had obviously gone to great lengths to find some decent ones.

Giardino may not be the best Italian restaurant in Hong Kong but it is perfectly acceptable at it’s price point. And it is a very cosy little hideaway.

G/F 1 Minden Avenue
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2312 7398

3/F Chun Fook Mansion
1 Hillwood Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2730 0860

G/F 71, Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2167 8181

Chek Lap Kok Int’l Airport
Lantau Island
New Territories
Tel 2136 0698
Fax 2136 0448

LG/F Jardine House
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2521 2322
Fax 2521 2677

G/F Lincoln House
Tong Chong Street
Quarry Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2219 0288
Fax 2219 0280

Unit 402, The Peak Tower
128 Peak Road
Victoria Peak
Hong Kong
Tel 2849 4222
Fax 2849 4622

G/F The Mall, Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 2868 0086
Fax 2537 1667

Grand Hyatt Hotel
1 Harbour Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2588 1234

G53-55, G/F New Century Plaza
151-163 Wan Chai Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 3118 6668

2/F Nexxus Building
41 Connaught Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2147 6768

Shop OT G63, G/F Ocean Terminal
Harbour City
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3101 0901

Level 3, Lee Gardens 2
28 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2898 3919

Habitu, located on level three of Lee Gardens Two in Causeway Bay is a modern, stylish restaurant specialising in the cuisines of southern Italy. For a comparatively large establishment it does an admirable job of being cosy and intimate.

This has been achieved by splitting up the area into sections and the thoughtful use of some home-style furnishing. A table with plants, a bookshelf, plasma TV and even a fire place separate the sections and give each part of the restaurant a different feel. There are four main sections; the main dining area, a VIP room, The Sun Room and The Garden Terrace on the rooftop for al fresco dining amid the skyscrapers of Causeway Bay. The main dining area includes The Hudson Bar and the Chefs Table where diners can watch as the kitchen staff go about their culinary art. We took a table in the main dining area and studied the menu.

The first item we ordered was Roasted Pumpkin Soup with whipped cream and sea urchin ($80). This was huge bowl of wonderfully rich and creamy soup, others may accuse it of being a little too rich or perhaps a tad too sweet coming so early in the meal. I had no such problem but I should say it is not a starter for those with smaller appetites. The sea urchin provided a taste of the ocean that contrasted well with the earthy flavour of the pumpkin.

We had been very tempted by the pan-seared Goose liver with wild fungi in port wine and caramelised apple but felt that may be just a little too rich after the soup. Instead we took our time over some coppa ham and veal prosciutto with poached pear and cantaloupe melon ($110) while the kitchen prepared the pasta course.

This gave me a moment to peruse the wine menu. I’d settled for a glass of house Chardonnay but the wine list is impressive and deserves a mention. There are about a hundred wines to choose from, mostly Italian and French but Australia, New Zealand and Chile are also well represented. All budgets are accommodated with about twenty choices coming in at $350 or under. Top of the class is a 1985 Chateau Lafite Rothschild which can be enjoyed for a princely $4,200 a bottle.

The pasta course was a seafood extravaganza. Black ink spaghetti with clams, mussels, prawns, cuttle fish, scallops and fish fillet in a creamy sea urchin sauce ($180). The black “ink” in the spaghetti is actually squid ink which gives the spaghetti a unique texture and flavour which, along with the sea urchin sauce, complements the seafood perfectly. And it was indeed worth complementing, fresh and tasty and it didn’t embarrass me once. I’m quite shy about eating shellfish, especially mussels. It’s a tricky business prizing them away from the shell. One lapse of concentration, the cutlery slips and the mussel becomes missile and takes flight across the restaurant. The only recourse is to duck behind a wine menu and hope nobody noticed.

By now I’m sure I must have been wearing a look of well fed contentment and smiling upon the world in general but there was still more to come. The final entree, Roast rack of lamb ($250) was delightful. Four tender and juicy ribs arranged in a pyramid over truffle mashed potatoes. The black olive and sun-dried tomato sauce complemented the meat perfectly.

For dessert I was torn between raspberry napoleon with basil sorbet and fresh cream ($65) and baked Alaska with winter chestnut sauce ($80) so I took the easy way out … Both of them were deliciously naughty, the winter chestnuts are a perfect accompaniment to this classic dessert. But for me the Napoleon won by a hair, or rather by a raspberry. Admittedly the baked Alaska was decorated with raspberries but the napoleon had lots of them. Raspberries are not very common in Hong Kong and I’d forgotten just how much I enjoyed them.

2075, Podium Level 2, IFC Mall
8 Finance Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2805 0566

8 Knutsford Terrace
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2316 2223

8-13 Wo On Lane
Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Tel 2522 9911

23-27, G/F Empire Centre
68 Mody Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2739 1218
Fax 2301 3966

1103, Level One, IFC Mall
Finance Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2383 8765

This restaurant is really dramatic at night with huge glass windows giving an uninterrupted view of the Kowloon skyline. You can even sit outdoors on the terrace, but as the temperatures had plummeted, we elected to stay indoors. It is a modern, spacious restaurant and usually very busy so it is advisable to book.

The drinks and bread basket were served promptly. The bread was so-so, but the spread - redolent with the fresh taste of celeriac was delicious.

We had ordered one starter from the regular menu - mozzarella baked in walnut bread, and one from the specials - yellowtail carpaccio with olives and citrus dressing. The mozzarella was fabulous - steaming hot and chewy, the texture and flavours contrasting well with the crisp, light, walnut bread and balsamico drizzled on the plate.

My carpaccio was wonderful too - the dressing was a masterful blend of fruity olive oil and sharp citrus. There was a pile of olives and what appeared to be potato cubes, served on the side. The potatoes were crunchy and rather raw, but what the hell, they tasted good so I cleaned the plate.

By this time we were feeling very well disposed towards Isola, and looking forward to the main course. Again, I had chosen from the specials - hand pulled pasta (reminiscent of spaetzle) with prawns and broccoli, whilst my dining companion had gone for a menu option. Sadly, neither choice lived up to the promise of the starters - especially the Italian sausage with roasted potatoes and oven dried tomato.

We should have guessed really. We’d asked the waiter about the sausage, and he’d dodged the questions repeatedly with ‘name, rank and serial number’ doggedness, only offering, “yes, it’s a popular choice,” to every question, which we later came to realise probably meant, “yes, people choose it all the time - but never more than once.”

The sausage was very salty, and uninteresting, the roast potatoes were sad, white, soggy, chip-shaped affairs, and the dried tomatoes - well, they were just cherry tomatoes wilted in an oven.

The pasta was better - the sauce was flavourful and the prawns were fresh. Again it had been salted with a heavy hand, and this diner felt that the flavour was too overwhelmingly ‘lobster bisque’ - not bad in itself, but not as advertised and rather too overpowering.

Coffee and tea were served with the goats-milk ricotta tart - baked cheesecake by another name. The taste was good, but the texture was dry and powdery, and the ‘caramel sauce’ it was supposed to come with was a joke. There were only 4 fine lines of sauce drizzled on the plate. We could hardly see it, let alone taste it.

So what of other things? Ambience was good, but we felt the service was lacking. Every server should have tasted all the dishes and be able to talk about them - truthfully. Offering things like pepper should be automatic, and petit fours should come with the coffee, not 15 minutes afterwards. Also small things - using torn menu covers (plastic) - in my case, also encrusted with dried food, and using chipped crockery, is holding Isola back from becoming the 5 star restaurant it clearly aspires to be.

Dinner for two, with two glasses of wine, a bottle of mineral water and coffee and tea, came to $1,111.

2060-62B. 2/F Elements Mall
Kowloon Station
Kowloon
Tel 2382 2323

G/F 15 Wing Wah Lane
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2868 4328
Fax 2523 2801

Shop 2, The Sanlitum
Causeway Centre
28 Harbour Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 3115 0238

21 Yiu Wa Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 3237

B/F Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2522 9505
Fax 2845 0169

We didn’t think we were coming here to be honest. A friend and myself had been for a couple of beers after work and we had planned to go somewhere else for dinner. Unfortunately that somewhere else was packed to the rafters so we opted for plan b.

“Have you ever been to that Italian place down the little lane by Taco Loco?” I knew all along that there was an Italian place down there but I had to confess, it is so tucked away I never think about.

“Sounds like a good plan b to me”, I said, and off we went.

Even this place was busy but not so busy that a table couldn’t be found. There was live music in the form of a singer/guitarist playing a repertoire old Bob Dylan and other folksy acoustic tunes. I was worried that it might be a bit overwhelming in such a small restaurant but in the end we found ourselves tapping along as one familiar old tune was followed by another.

The menu has a lot of loose pages most of which appeared to be based on what chef had found in the market that day. All of it looked very tempting - though a little expensive.

“When was the last time you went to a good Italian restaurant and simply ordered a pizza?”, enquired my friend. I couldn’t remember. I rarely order pasta either because both these dishes are too filling and I usually want starters and a main course as well.

So we agreed, we’d share a pasta and a pizza and a couple of starters. I reluctantly let go of all the tempting printouts and turned my attention to the main menu.

For starters we had the Misto Salumi ($115) which was a selection of delicious cured hams with shavings of parmesan cheese and green salad. We also ordered the Sole Mediterraneo ($68) which consisted of sun dried tomatoes, eggplant and artichoke with olive oil.

I love olive oil but I was trying to go easy knowing full well that the next two dishes were going to be quite filling.

The pasta came first. This was Roebuck Ragout with red wine and a penne pasta ($135). It was a generous serving and it more than lived up to our expectations. We dug in with enthusiasm but we were soon interrupted by the arrival of the pizza.

Pizza alla Marinara ($138) with calms, mussels and prawns looked impressive. The shells made up an appealing decoration with one extra large mussel taking centre stage and made it look almost as if the pizza could fly.

The base was thin and crispy, as it should be, the sauce delicious and the mussels and clams separated from their shells without a fight. We wolfed it down.

The owner came out to do his rounds and ensure that everything had been alright. We assured him it had more than alright - it had been very good indeed. Then, to make a good meal even better he offered a complimentary digestivo, which is a drink to aid digestion.

My friend went for an amaretto with biscotti. I opted for a lemon grappa and, for good measure, ordered a panettoni for dessert. This is a sweetened cake containing raisins, nuts and candied fruit.

The Piazzetta is not easy to see from Shelley Street - it is a few doors down the lane. Despite that there was a steady stream of customers throughout the time that we were there. And this was a Wednesday. If you are going on a weekend I would strongly suggest you make a reservation.

G/F 11C Mui Wo Ferry Pier Road
Mui Wo
Lantau
New Territories
Tel 2984 8933
Fax 2984 8923

1/F California Tower
30-32 D’Aguilar Street
Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2526 3880

2/F Royal Plaza Hotel
193 Prince Edward Road
Mongkok
Kowloon
Tel 2622 6156

B2 InterContinental Grand Stanford
70 Mody Road
Tsimshatsui
Tel 2731 2870

Upper Basement, Harilela House
79 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2522 8118

Conrad Hong Kong
Pacific Place
88 Queensway
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 2521 3838
Fax 2521 3888

Shop 105, 1/F Ocean Centre
Harbour City
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3188 4282

12/F Food Forum
Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 3282

I didn’t ask but I suspect the large wall mounted TV attracts sports fans at the weekend or perhaps karaoke fans. There was some mountain biking on when I was there but this was about seven o’clock on a Wednesday.

The cuisine is Italian but it’s not what I would call a romantic hole in the wall where you go for a candle lit dinner with someone special. This is a restaurant for an evening out with a group of good friends.

The food is good and reasonably priced so I had few complaints. Unfortunately the first one was the bread basket. Low on variety and kept warm just a little too long it just seemed a little half hearted. Still, with the help of a liberal amount of olive oil and a glass of Pinot Grigiot, I made the best of it.

From there on things got better. For starter I had opted for the Portobello mushroom with mixed vegetable ($70). The vegetables included red peppers and zucchini. The mushroom was plump and firm with a pleasant flavour. It was a simple but pleasing dish. It left me eagerly anticipating the main course.

Unfortunately this was a little slow out of the blocks. Not really slow enough to make a fuss about but I was well into my second glass of wine by the time it arrived.

I’d been waiting for the baked crab on codfish ($168) and when it arrived it redeemed itself by being quite delicious. The crab-meat was tasty and the cod tender and succulent. Served with spinach in a cream sauce.

By now the restaurant was filling up. Even on a Wednesday it is evidently popular. I scanned the menu for dessert. The waitress told me that the Hot souffle with vanilla sauce ($60) was good but it would take 15-20 minutes to prepare. I’d been expecting that and ordered it anyway. She was right, it was good.

I finished off with a coffee. It was a good meal, not spectacular but definitely one to remember after a grueling afternoon shopping.

G/F 67 Man Nin Street
Sai Kung
New Territories
TEl 2791 5068

G/F 8 Hart Avenue
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2368 7299

1/F Park Avenue Tower
5 Moreton Terrace
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2802 9028

Holiday Inn Golden Mile
50 Nathan Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2315 1010

183 C/D Po Tung Road
Sai Kung
New Territories
Tel 2792 5296

2/F, 1 Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 6380

30-32 Robinson Road
Mid Levels
Hong Kong
Tel 2521 7366

2 Knutsford Terrace
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2312 6668