Eat Drink Hong Kong

Well it’s not actually in a tent, it’s on the first floor of Koon Fook Centre at 9 Knutsford Terrace. It’s also quite easy to miss if you are walking from the Knutsford Steps end of the lane. If you approach from Observatory Road you’ll see a large advert hanging by the entrance just next door to the Whale Pub.

I have fond, though admittedly fuzzy, memories of tent bars in South Korea. The ones that I have been in were out in the provinces. Once they had got over the shock of a foreigner sticking his head round the flap they were all very friendly and welcoming and, despite not knowing what I was eating or drinking - and not understanding anything that was being said to me, I generally had a good old time.

It was in a tent bar that I discovered kimchi and beer was a marriage made in heaven … and that soju should be treated with respect.

Apgujeong may not be a tent but the staff are still very friendly and it does capture a very traditional Korean feel with polished floorboards, heavy wooden tables, and the smell of rush mats mixing pleasantly with the aromas of cooking. I was shown to a table and promptly presented with a plate of kimchi, bean sprouts and tiny fish which had been marinated in honey, soy and sesame. I ordered a Cass beer ($28).

The restaurant has been open for a couple of months now but the waitress informs me that the menu has already changed a lot during that time since they are still learning which dishes work well and which prove to be less popular. A quick glance told me that there was plenty that would probably keep me happy for several visits. Starters that included beef tartar with sweet pear ($128), Sea snails with chillis and spicy beef with squid and vegetables (both $75).

I plumped for traditional Korean pancakes ($68). These are made from green beans, garlic and onion and are served piping hot with a sharp and spicy sauce. They were a perfect addition to the platter of kimchi and fishes. I ordered another beer.

Apgujeong has an interesting range of hot pots and whilst the beef rib with chestnut ($78) and the Ginseng with chicken ($108) were both tempting I knew my limitations, I’d already ordered pan fried yellow fish ($70). This was tender and succulent and once again came with a sweet spicy sauce to dip it in.

It is quite a small restaurant and by now it was almost full but customers were still arriving. My final dish arrived along with another beer. The dish was kimchi with pork fried rice ($85) which is delivered in a stone pot with a raw egg on top. The idea is to mix it all together quickly but don’t eat it too quickly. The rice that is in contact with the pot becomes a little crusty which makes for a wonderful contrast in texture between the crusty and the softer rice on the inside.

Apgujeong is a welcome addition to the Knutsford Terrace strip, whether you want a full meal or just drinks and snacks. Reservations are recommended, particularly at weekends.

1/F Koon Fook Centre,
9 Knutsford Terrace
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3579 2992

Shop G07 Ground Floor
Ocean Terminal
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2956 3288
Fax 2730 2119

Food Forum, 11/F, Times Square
Matheson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 3298
Fax 2506 4284

Normally I have a very good sense of direction, if I’ve been to a place, or passed it by once, I can usually find my way back without too much trouble. The exception to this rule is if it happens to be in Harbour City or Ocean Terminal.

On a previous visit I must have passed Arirang three or four times as I searched for the place I was looking for. So when a good friend and I decided to go for Korean I had no hesitation in suggesting Arirang. After all I knew exactly where it was.

The doubt started creeping in almost as soon as I had put the phone down. I DID know where it was, I told myself, but just to be sure I decided to get there early. We’d agreed to meet at eight so at seven-thirty I strode boldly into Harbour City, up the escalator and … it wasn’t there. It must be the next floor up … no … down. I stopped to scrutinise a map. Arirang wasn’t on it. I called the restaurant, they told me to go where I already thought I was.

I eventually found the restaurant on the stroke of eight. Just as my friend walked calmly up from the opposite direction.
“You found it OK then?” I asked, anxiously.
“Yes, of course, why?” She replied.

We were led to our table. Arirang is quite popular and it was already quite busy. Attractive wood and glass partitions break up the space and help make it a little more intimate. It has a traditional atmosphere which is fitting because Arirang is traditional folk song that is found all over Korea with different regions each having their own version.

Tea was poured and menus promptly delivered. The menu is quite large and varied and it took us quite a while to make our minds up. To help us along we ordered an OB beer ($28) each.

For the barbecue we settled on the Modeum Gogi Gooi ($230), a meat combination that includes beef, pork, chicken and lamb. This was delivered with half a dozen kinds of bahn chahn or little side dishes. These included the classic cabbage and radish kimchee without which no Korean meal is complete plus vegetables and little fishes tossed in sesame oil among others.

My friend was keen to try the Se Gyub Sahl Jorim ($110), pork belly braised in sweet soy stock. I was glad she was because otherwise I might have passed that one over and it turned out to be one of my favourite dishes from the meal, much less fatty than I was expecting.

Kimchee Juhn ($60/$100) is a pancake like dish made with kimchee and pork in flour batter. Sahm Sek Juhn ($120) which consists of three kinds of vegetables filled with minced beef. Both of these dishes have a non-meat option. The kimchee pancake can be made without the pork and three kinds of vegetables can be fried without the minced beef which we decided to go for since we already had the barbecue and the pork belly.

Finally we ordered Ggong Chi Gooi ($90) which was billed as lightly salted pike though I had my suspicion that it didn’t mean the large freshwater fish that I was familiar with and indeed were distinctly sardine like. But that was no problem, I like sardines.

The only dish that didn’t really live up to expectations was the Kimchee juhn which seemed to be very dry and I think was suffering from being served in the vegetarian form. Though vegetarians should note that there are plenty of other vegetarian options available

Korean cuisine isn’t noted for it’s desserts, there didn’t appear to be any on the menu, but sesame ice cream is served automatically at the end of each meal.

As we left Ocean Terminal my friend led me through an exit that I’d never seen before and within moments we were back at Star Ferry. But I know if I try and retrace those steps I’ll wind up in Jordan.

3 Luk Fo Tsun Road
Kowloon City
Kowloon
Tel 2718 4368

G/F Kowloon centre
29-39 Ashley Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2376 3385
Fax 2376 1382

1G Kimberley Street
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2368 4606

1-2/F Way On Commercial Building
500-504 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 3877

1/F Eastern Flower Centre
22-24 Cameron Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2367 1087

Shop 102b, 1/F, Block A
Water Margin
Discovery Bay
Lantau
New Territories
Tel 2987 9123

202, 2/F Toyomall
94 Granville Road
Timshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2311 0901

6/F Causeway Bay Plaza One
489 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2877 7797

10 Kimberley Street
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2367 5025

Shop G402-03, Yuan Kung Mansion
20 Taikoo Shing Road
Taikoo Shing
Hong Kong
Tel 2539 6398
Fax 2539 6689

1/F Shop B Hanley House
68-80 Canton Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2317 7881

2/F Mongkok City Centre
74-84 Sai Yeung Choi Street
Mongkok
Kowloon
Tel 2787 4880

3/F Capitol Centre
5-19 Jardine’s Crescent
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3428 2383

2/F Workingfield Commercial Building
408-412 Jaffe Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2574 5077

6/F Island Beverley Centre
1 Great George Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2895 3986/2895 6398

6/F, 8 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Tel 2838 9550
Fax 2838 9081

Shop 363/366 L3 Grand Century Place
Mongkok
Kowloon
Tel 2628 0680

1/F Blissful Building
247 Des Voeux Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2542 2339

119-121 Connaught Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2544 0007

G/F, 58 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 9893

Shop G3-6 Elizabeth House
250-254 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 5145

G/F Greenview Court
2-4 Observatory Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2311 9676
Fax 2312 1676

UG/F 43-48a Empire Centre
68 Mody Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2367 5674

2/F Bo Hon Building
24-30 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3173 7168

1/F Dundas Square
43H Dundas Street
Mongkok
Kowloon
Tel 2384 6980

9/F Goldmark
502 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 2078

Shop G10B, Site 2
Whampoa Garden
Hung Hom
Kowloon
Tel 2773 6998

3/F Kyoto Plaza
491-499 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2833 0113

Podium 301-302 World Trade Centre
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 5056

1/F 25 Kimberley Road
Tsimshatsui East
Kowloon
Tel 2739 6681

2/F 175 Lockhart Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2511 1778

1/F VIP Commercial Centre
120 Canton Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2730 9322

G/F 75 Kimberly Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Kowloon
Tel 2721 8730

2/F 12-16 Humphrey’s Avenue
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2721 8970

5P125 Terminal 2
Chek Lap Kok Airport
Lantau
New Territories
Tel 3559 1111

G/F Bank of America Tower
12 Harcourt Road
Admiralty
Hong Kong
Tel 2801 7990
Fax 2801 7977

10C Kimberley Street
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2367 5025

Shop G07, Block A
Discovery Bay Plaza
Lantau Island
New Territories
Tel 2987 9299

17/F Lee Theatre Plaza
99 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 6823
Fax 2504 5674

4/F Miramar Shopping Centre
1 Kimberley Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2375 2882

6 Ashley Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2376 1545