A Portuguese guide to Macau
This week, our Portuguese guest
reviewer gives us his favourite restaurants in Macau. We hope you try
his recommendations next time you're there, instead of just throwing your
money away in the casinos!
These are the places that I keep going back to. They're all Portuguese-owned
and the food here is as authentic as it gets. In no particular order...
Fernando
Hac Sa (Black Sand) Beach, Coloane Tel (+853) 28 882 264
The only problem here is that you usually have to wait a while for
a table, especially if you go on a weekend or Friday night. Highlights:
caldo verde, clams with garlic/tomato sauce (this dish is a starter
in Portugal or a light meal before or after the beach for example
-- you can soak up the delicious sauce with the toasted Portuguese
bread they serve). Also, very tasty charcoal-grilled food such as
pork ribs, chicken and squid. Their Portuguese-style suckling pig
(which is slightly different from the Chinese version) is very good.
If you order this dish make sure you ask for a lettuce/tomato/onion
salad (with comes with an olive oil and vinegar dressing) and some
chilled green wine (I recommend the Aveleda brand, great value).
The side dishes, such as the French fries and salads, are as good
as the main dishes. The outdoor bar is a nice place to wait for
a table. The pavilion facing Hac Sa beach has a really great view.
O Manel
Rua Fernao Mendes Pinto, 90 Taipa Tel (+853) 28 827 571
A small and famous Portuguese-owned restaurant. Better make a reservation
or you won't get a table, especially for dinner. There are about
six or eight daily specials. Delicious starters: cod fish balls (deep fried and made with cod
fish flakes and mashed potato, plus a bit of parsley), Portuguese
vegetable soup and grilled linguica (Portuguese sausage similar
to Spanish chorizo). The food is as good as in Fernando's. However,
this place is much smaller. And you won't find the charcoal-grilled
dishes. The owner (Mr. Manuel, the restaurant's name is an abbreviation
of his name) is Portuguese but can speak Cantonese and will translate
the list of daily specials, which are written in Portuguese. Good
selection of Portuguese wine.
O Santos
Rua do Cunha, 20 Taipa
This place is on that street in Taipa with all the cookie shops.
Try the char-grilled chicken (frango assado)! Other recommended
dishes are the salted cod fish (bacalhau), garlic prawns, and a
great side dish: the Portuguese-style salad with olive oil and vinegar
dressing. The homemade French fries and the bread are also excellent.
Afonso III
Rua Central, 11 Macau
Tel (+853) 28 586 272
Also a small Portuguese-owned restaurant. Serves traditional food.
Not far from Leal Senado, the main square. Try the hearty vegetable
soup as a starter. Good cod fish dishes, other fish dishes and many
other daily specials. The only thing you have to watch out for here
are the huge portions, one main is enough for two, especially if
you have a soup and bread and butter as a starter.
A Petisqueira
Rua de Sao Joao, 15 Taipa
Tel (+853) 825 354
Also Portuguese-owned. Huge variety on the menu, plus daily specials.
They are apparently famous for their huge portions.
Restaurante Perola
Sands Casino Largo de Monte Carlo, 203 Macau
Tel (+853) 28 883 388
This restaurant inside the Sands casino mainly has Macanese food
and some Portuguese dishes. I went there once and it was very good.
I wasn't expecting much because it's inside a big casino but I thought
the food was pretty authentic. I recommend the minchee (one of the
more famous Macanese dishes). It's made with minced meat (pork or
beef), diced onion and potato, and served with an egg on top. It's
supposed to be a good cure for hangovers. A meal for two with starters
(minchee and Portuguese octopus salad), a main (African chicken)
and a bottle of Portuguese beer (Super Bock) cost about MOP250,
which considering the quality of service and decor was really very
reasonable. It can be crowded so it's best to make a reservation.
Boa Mesa
Travessa de S. Domingos, 16A Macau
Tel (+853) 28 389 453
This newly opened restaurant/coffee shop is a meeting point for
homesick Portuguese people -- the kind of place which you could
easily find in Lisbon. Four or five daily specials of traditional
food, plus hearty soup of the day. They also serve charcoal-grilled
food (try the chicken!). Homemade chocolate mousse for dessert.
Excellent value. How to get there: Find the McDonald's in front
of Starbucks, near the Leal Senado square. Climb the small street
next to McDonald's for about two minutes.
Clube Militar
Avenida Praia Grande, 795 Macau
Tel (+853) 28 714 000
Worth going there to experience the atmosphere of an old Portuguese
members-only club. The food is pretty good too, and it's good value.
How to get there: near casino Lisboa. It's the low-rise pink building
next to a small garden.
Recommended coffee shops:
Cafe Ou Mun
Travessa de Sao Domingos, 12 Macau
Tel (+853) 28 372 207
Good place for breakfast. Or try the excellent and authentic "bica"
(Portuguese espresso) and some Portuguese-style pastries, egg tarts
and other cakes. Wash it down with a Port. They also serve light
meals, such as soup and Portuguese-style pork sandwiches (bifanas)
which are marinated in a tasty sauce for days (nothing to do with
the pork chop bun). How to get there: See directions for Boa Mesa.
This place is almost next door.
Margaret's Cafe e Nata
Rua Comandante Mata e Oliveira Macau
Tel (+853) 28 710 032
Freshly baked "pastel de nata" and espresso coffee. Pretty good
sandwiches -- try the one with roast meat. How to get there: Not
so easy to find. Small alley, opposite the Portuguese school, which
is next to Casino Lisboa.
Lord Stow's Bakery
Rua da Tassara, 1 Coloane Town Square Coloane
Tel (+853) 28 882 534
Not exactly a coffee shop, but they serve a pretty good variation
of the traditional "pastel de nata" (Portuguese egg tart). They
also have good bread. They are now spread throughout Asia, with
franchises in Hong Kong, the Philippines, Korea and Taiwan. Located
in a beautiful old part of Coloane island.
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