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Reviews A-E A | B | C | D | E 39a Gough Back when I was a young art student, in a rather unexceptional city in central England, an advert on TV caught my attention. The advert was for a dessert, one that I'd never heard of before - frozen cheesecake. A few days later I saw one in the supermarket but it was way beyond the budget of a first year student so I forgot all about it. Some weeks later I was having a coffee with one of the girls from college and I noticed that the cafe we were in had cheesecake on the menu. "Hey look", I said, "they have cheesecake. Have you ever tried any? "Cheesecake," she murmured and rolled her eyes in a way that made me blush, "cheesecake is wonderful". I remembered her the other day when I paid a visit to 39a Gough. It's a small friendly restaurant offering a range of Thai and western dishes. The menu boasts all the old favourites as well as a few unusual choices. The waitress, who is also the wife in the husband and wife team that own and operate the place, was helping me decide. I'd been cautioned against the mixed platter of appetizers. "It's too much for one person" she told me, so I settled on the stuffed Thai sausage and was trying to make up my mind on the main course. I'd ruled out the curries and was listening to a run down of the items on the blackboard. I was determined to try something a little different. "I know," she said "how about baked crab cheesecake?". It did sound good so I allowed myself to be persuaded. The Sausage duly arrived. It was actually wrapped in prawn meat similar to prawn cakes. These were wonderfully crisp on the outside, firm and tasty and not at all greasy. While I waited for the cheesecake I got to watch as a steady stream of mouthwatering dishes was ferried to a fairly large group who were sitting nearby. The restaurant employs a Thai chef to look after the that side of the menu while the husband side of the partnership, and head chef, handles the western dishes. He is also passionate about desserts. The baked crab cheesecake comes with a salad and crab claws with a vinaigrette dressing on the side. The crab meat is baked with cream cheese onions and herbs. It is rich and filling and really quite delicious. This I decided would be an excellent dish for sharing, perhaps alongside that mixed platter of appetizers. "Save some room for dessert", chuckled the chef as he passed by to ensure everything was to his customers satisfaction. There was, of course, more cheesecake on the dessert menu in fact there was a whole range fresh, homemade cheesecakes. The pina colada was highly recommended. It was a huge slice with chunks of pineapple and flavoured with Malibu and rum. Coconut cream was drizzled on the side and was sprinkled with dried coconut, "mmm this cheesecake is wonderful" I said and at that point I think I may have blushed because I'd just remembered my friend from all those years ago. 798 Unit & Co An odd name, even by the odd naming conventions of pubs. There are two branches, one in Tsim Sha Tsui and another in Times Square, Causeway Bay. I went along to the latter the other evening. The 'gastropub', as 798 Unit & Co describe themselves is mostly reminiscent of a medieval beer hall. Nothing particularly odd about that, indeed the larger tables in the middle that are common in such beer halls are perfectly suited to Hong Kong peoples love of dining together in large groups. What was a bit strange were the hacienda-like arches along one side and the distinctly Mediterranean menu. I'd already ordered a Murphy's Stout and was searching the menu for something that might go with it. In the end I gave up thinking I could wolf the beer down while I was waiting for the food to arrive and then order a glass of wine. I was wrong. I ordered two tapas bot of which arrived with a promptness and efficiency that was that was really quite impressive. I looked towards the kitchen with admiration. The kitchen is actually visible through the back wall. The bright reassuring cleanliness of the modern facility contrasts with both the beer hall and the hacienda. The tapas were wasabi beef ($80) and oct grilled octopus with chorizo, roast tomato and onions ($68). Both were very good. The only criticism I would level would be at the octopus and chorizo and that was because there was substantially more octopus and whilst I do like it, I like chorizo equally. The menu boasts all the regulation pizzas and pastas and delicious though they probably are I figured that would be a mistake after two largish tapas. I'd already consulted with the waitress. We'd concluded that the Murphy's would go well with a steak and we could probably get away with a pizza. But, if we left beer out of the equation than we both agreed that the salmon filet with parsley crust in a fish broth with tomato and olives ($108). She assured me it was one of the lighter entrees on the menu and would leave me with ample room for dessert. It was delicious too. The soup had a pleasant sharpness to it that complemented the fish. I imagined it would probably do alright with a hint of jalapeño added to it. I mopped up the last of the soup with the remains of the crusty bread that had been served when I arrived. And turned my attention to the stout. It had lost it's 'just out of the fridge' chill which is actually beneficial for a stout. I spent a leisurely ten or fifteen minutes enjoying that and watching people arrive. It was mostly an after office crowd while I was there and whilst it wasn't full I doubt there would be too many complaints from the management. I guessed that by 8.30pm you would be lucky to get a table without a prior reservation. All the dishes on the dessert menu are tried and trusted favourites. I ordered the brownies with banana fudge gelato ($42) and a coffee. Nobody seemed all that phased by the contrasting styles of the restaurant. I suspect I'm one of the few people around that actually notices these things. But it doesn't really worry me, how can it when I am going to step out and straight back in to a bustling shopping mall. 798 Unit & Co 1203 Food Forum Times Square Causeway Bay Tel. 2506 0611 Afghan Canteen Lovers of top notch, value for money, curries have always made a beeline for Chungking Mansions. A favourite of mine, when I arrived in Hong Kong as a fresh faced backpacker in the early eighties, was buried so far in that even the rats and roaches went around in pairs. The reward was an excellent curry that even backpackers had to agree was very reasonably priced. But for some folks the very thought of Chungking Mansions is enough to put them off their dinner. Luckily, there are alternatives. One of these is Afghan Canteen, a small Indian (halal) restaurant that has inhabited the third floor above the Red Lips bar for over 16 years. The entrance is just around the corner on Lock Road. There are two small lifts which take people, two at a time, up to the third floor. There were four of us. After the lift the restaurant itself seems quite spacious. The decor was simple and the staff friendly. The restaurant wasn't crowded and we were quickly shown to a table and menus were produced. I've always maintained that beer and curry is a marriage made in heaven, the rest of the party seemed to agree and four cold Cobras were ordered and promptly delivered. We settled down to discuss the menu. The were no big surprises, all our favourite dishes were represented. To get the ball rolling we sent the waiter off for some starters; Onion Bahji ($24), Samosas ($20), and chicken chat ($24). The bhaji and the samosa were both excellent the chat, whilst not being particularly bad, didn't really hold it's own alongside the other two. Nevertheless we made short work of it all and soon we were putting in our orders for the main dishes. Chicken Afghan ($60) was the house speciality so we felt duty-bound to order that. To go with it we ordered Baingan Bharta ($48), Rogan Josh ($60), Palak Paneer ($48) and Boti Kebab ($72). Boti kebabs are chunks of tandoori lamb and are an excellent alternative to the ever popular chicken tikka (which is also available). The chicken Afghan was a mild, creamy curry and quite delicious. The rogan josh was also quite mild which is unusual for a rogan josh. These are usually on the spicy side and a bit oily but this adaptation was mild and buttery. It was a very pleasant dish indeed but if you are a stickler for tradition it would probably raise the eyebrows a little. The Palak paneer and Baingan bharta both lived up to expectation and we scooped them up enthusiastically with with plain and garlic nan. Dessert would have been gulab jamun and kulfi but by the time we got there we were all quite full. Instead we finished our beers slowly, brought peace to the world and abolished natural disasters forever before emerging into the frantic neon of Tsim Sha Tsui. An explosion of light and noise that would also underscore a curry trip to Chungking Mansions. July 2006 Agave Tequila is to mescal what Champagne is to sparkling wine. What distinguishes Tequila is that it is made from the blue agave plant which is found only in the Tequila region of western Mexico. We were sitting in a restaurant/ bar called Agave in Lockhart Road, half a world away from western Mexico, staring at a drinks list that offered a bewildering selection of Tequila based drinks. "Tequila Macho", said my companion, "seventy-five bucks, a tequila blanco with white rum, dark rum and then some stuff like wimpy orange, pineapple and lime." "Are you having one?", I asked. "No, no , no," she replied. "I'm going to have a Heart of Fire ($70), Tequila blanco, peach schnapps, sparkling wine and a slice of orange. What are you having?". I returned my attention to the menu while my companion ordered a plate of nachos gringos ($83), tortilla chips with cheddar cheese salsa and a huge dollop of sour cream. "Margarita I think, El Toro Loco ($70) which translates as 'crazy bull'. It is made with Tequila blanco, absinthe, Red Bull and a dash of lime. I was planning on ordering another starter but the waitress talked me out of it, insisting that the nachos were large enough for two. I took her word for it -I do have a tendency to over order some times. The music was quite loud but not so loud that we couldn't talk and whilst I would hesitate to say it was latin music it did have a distinct party feel. The decor had a very tropical latin feel, yellow painted walls with painted red beams across the ceiling. Combine with intricate light fittings and other ornamentations along with a ceramic tiled bar, and the plate of nachos gringos, and the effect is complete. It was a big plate but I wasn't convinced that I couldn't have managed another starter. Never-the-less, I let it slide and we dove into the nachos. For the main event my companion had ordered the grilled filet steak ($180) topped with chipotle sauce, oaxaca cheese and cilantro (coriander). For those of you that don't already know, a chipotle is a smoked jalapeno chili pepper. It is believed the practice of smoking them goes back to even before the Aztec civilisation and that it came about because the thick fleshy peppers were hard to dry properly and tended to go mouldy. Smoked they can be kept for quite a long time. I did sneak a taste of the sauce and it was still quite tangy, not too spicy and altogether rather delicious. I would have been envious but I had a bowl of Camarones a al Diabla ($160), or sauteed prawns in devil sauce. It had three little chilis next to it on the menu suggesting that it was going to be very spicy indeed. It was quite spicy but not so much that it would challenge a seasoned chili aficionado. But I was impressed with how the flavour of the habaneros had been brought out without threatening to take the roof of my head off. Both dishes were served with Mexican rice and refried beans. The waitress enquired if we still wanted the other starter or if we would prefer a dessert. We plumped for dessert. I could have eaten the starter but my companion was beat. Well almost. Any hopes I may have harboured for keeping the crepes with caramel sauce all to myself were very quickly dashed, "That's so yummy" she said. The waitress wondered if I'd like another Toro Loco. I was tempted but I knew that if I did I would soon be looking for a sombrero to wear and a sturdy table to dance on. April 2006 Akita I bumped into an old colleague at a function a few weeks back. It was a bit of a surprise for both of us I think but a pleasant one nonetheless. We decided we really must keep in touch and, to seal our vows, went out to dinner. She suggested we go over to Observatory Court which I thought was a splendid idea. I'm a bit slack at getting over the other side of the harbour, I have to admit. After snooping around a while we decided to go for Teppanyaki at Akita. Akita is on the first floor and stepping out of the lift, we found ourselves in a surprisingly spacious restaurant decorated in a mock traditional Japanese market style. In front of us were counters displaying fresh seafood and vegetables. To the right was a robotayaki dining area, we hung a left to the teppanyaki area. Teppanyaki derives it's name from the hot iron plate, called a teppan, on which the food is cooked. But with teppanyakai you don't just get dinner, you get a show. We decided on the Hokkaido Teppanyaki Set performance at $498 for two people. We also ordered a bottle of cold dry sake. It was a rather a nice sake but I don't remember what it was called - leading me to suspect I may have consumed more than my fair share. The performance, of course, is watching the chef prepare the food. Ours was not only an excellent chef but a good entertainer, twirling pepper mills and cooking utensils with as much aplomb as any cocktail waiter. We started with a light salad with crab while the chef topped and tailed two jumbo prawns. He set the heads aside for later. The prawns were firm and tasty. "Buttery", said my friend. I had to agree, but I didn't think that was a bad thing. The hint of butter was prevalent throughout the whole meal but it never became overbearing. The prawns were followed by scallop and geoduck clam dishes. The clam is actually pronounced "gooey duck" but is also called elephant trunk clam and has the distinction of being the largest burrowing clam in the world. It's also said to be something of an aphrodisiac, possibly due to its phallic shape and the fact that the female produces something like 5 billion viable eggs during her life-span. They are also an excellent accompaniment for sake. By now the chef had turned his attention to the Angus beef steak. This was going to be served with a generous amount of fried garlic. While we watched, a bowl of lobster miso soup was served. After the steak we had fresh garden vegetables. The prawn heads were then pressed and cooked until crisp, and then finally, the Akita special fried rice. The fried rice was unusual in that it is cooked with bacon and ground beef, and was really rather nice. By this time we were both feeling replete but I always feel that the meal is not complete without dessert. That said, in Japanese set meals the dessert is usually ice cream and I wondered if I could cheat. In the end I'm glad I didn't because the ice cream flavour was sesame and tofu which I had never had before and was most enjoyable. Afterwards we snooped around observatory court some more before clambering into our respective taxis vowing to do it all again soon. Al Dente (Wanchai) I found a branch of Al Dente I didn't know about the other day. This one is on Jaffe Road in Wanchai. I must admit, it's not really the kind of place where I would have gone looking for a nice little 'hole in the wall' type Italian restaurant. It's on the unfashionable part of the road beyond the bridge that leads to Central Plaza and the immigration department. As I was walking by I caught what sounded suspiciously like the ivory tickling of Art Tatum. Before I knew what had happened I was sitting there with a glass of red wine in one hand, a menu in the other and some truly nifty piano playing wafting through the air. It really is quite a small place, long and narrow with seating for no more than about 30 people. It was not too full when I arrived but several of the tables had been pushed together in preparation for what looked like a group of 12-14. The table by the door also had a large reserved sign on it. This was the middle of the week and I was beginning to feel decidedly lucky to have got a table without making a reservation first. For starters I ordered the Fungi Ala Griglia ($79). This consisted of two plump portobello mushrooms, char grilled and topped with goats cheese, and served on a bed of lettuce and aragula with tomatoes. I love these mushrooms and the char grilling really brought out the rich earthy flavour. I was most impressed. So impressed that I hadn't noticed the Art Tatum CD had finished and been replaced with what sounded suspiciously like Kenny G. It wasn't long before the main course arrived. I had originally ordered a veal dish but veal had been unavailable on this particular evening. The waiter, instead, offered me a variation made with fillet of chicken ($149). The chicken was layered with spinach, sage, cheese and proscuitto, served on a bed of creamed potato with a truffle and mushroom sauce. This, I decided, was a very happy alternative to the veal. By now the restaurant had filled up and there were still people arriving, hoping to get a table. I ordered a mixed berry crumble with ice cream ($48) for dessert. I was feeling quite full - all the servings had been generous, and would be perfect for sharing. Which is just what the diners on the adjacent table table were doing and I couldn't help but smile knowingly as they admired their newly arrived portobello mushrooms. I paid my bill and, much to the relief of the hungry faces outside, went off in search of Delaneys and a pint of Kilkenny for the road. The American Restaurant Friends who've been away from Chinese food for almost a year called and almost begged me to eat Peking Duck with them while they were visiting Hong Kong. Without even mentioning a name, we all pretty much immediately knew where we would be going... The American Restaurant (of course!). Despite its rather suspicious name, all of us had eaten there before, and it is famous for its Peking Duck. So, early Tuesday evening, a table of 6 adults and one lively 2 year old descended upon the little old men that serve in the place. They cleverly put us in a corner so the 2 year old would be nicely trapped. Its a medium sized restaurant - maybe 10 large tables, and kind of old fashioned, with light wood panelling surrounding large mirrors on all the walls. When we arrived we were the second table filled, but the place soon filled up and the noise rose to dim-sum levels. Once at the table, I took a quick, rather alarming glance at the menu - the first item was Sharks fin soup at $1380 for a medium serving and $2160 for a large. Beggars' chicken, which I would have loved, needed to be ordered in advance, so that was out. Then I remembered that as I'd come through the entrance I'd noticed a faded sign on the wall for set dinners, and it had seemed like a good deal, including pretty much everything we'd be likely to order. I asked for the set and our waiter looked very confused for a moment and then said 'Oh, but thats only for the small tables upstairs'. 'But it's a menu for 6 and we ARE 6 (and a half)' I replied. He didn't seem eager, but eventually he wandered back with a faxed copy of the set dinner menu for us, which we promptly ordered. First up came quite a strong-tasting soup, with chicken, noodles and elephant ear fungus. A huge pile of minced pigeon came next, with fresh lettuce leaves and oyster sauce to wrap around. The green onion cakes were a little oily, and not too popular at our table. However, following them was Ôkun pao' prawns which were delicious - soft, plump, and both sweet and slightly spicy. At last the duck appeared - we didn't get a whole duck with the set, but it was large, and there was plenty to go around. There's not a great deal to say about it. Peking duck is yummy, popular, and American Restaurant is famous for doing it right - thin pancakes, sweet sauce, crispy skin - perfect. (Oh, okay I'll give a niggle! I wished there was more in the way of scallion, and that the cucumber had been cut a little thinner than finger-width.) Having forgotten what was on the menu, we were surprised when more food started arriving. Sizzling beef with ginger and green onions looks impressive, with a huge cloud of steam rising from the platter (actually we were also impressed by the way the waiter handled what must have been an incredibly hot metal lid), but the beef was a little too gristly for our table. Cashew nuts with chicken came last - I believe it said chicken and cashew nuts on the menu, but was hard pressed to find much meat. The sweet, sticky nuts were pretty much good enough on their own though, and by now, everyone was pretty full. Just as we were about to ask for the bill, the waiter suddenly reappeared with a bowl of iced water. Oh! dessert! Out came a plate with a selection of cooked apple, pear and banana pieces, covered in hot, runny toffee with sesame seeds. These were then dipped in the ice water and passed around. Absolutely delicious. All this came to only $1261, with a couple of soft drinks, and many tea refills. For a place with such a good reputation, thats's been around just about forever, and that is popular with the tourists, I think that's a brilliant deal. The American (Peking) Restaurant G/F 20 Lockhart Road Wanchai Tel 2527 7277 Another One The phone rang, it was my lunch date: "We're going to Another One but I'm stuck in traffic and will be a bit late, you'll have to go and grab a table - it'll get crowded." "OK", I replied, "where are we going?" "We're going to Another One" Insisted my date. "Yes, yes" I said, "but which other one?" "No, NO", she shrieked , "the restaurant is CALLED Another One, it's at 38 Wanchai Road, ground floor." In my defence, I should like to point out that I was on Hennessy Road, it was noisy, crowded and hot - and Another One was not the kind of name I was expecting for what had been promised as an exceptionally good Shanghainese restaurant. It's an easy one to miss too. Look for the photos of local celebrities in the window. I got there at about 12.45, there were not so many people then, but by 12.55 the place was definitely crowded. I still had a few minutes to wait so I perused the menu which, conveniently, has English translations. The translations for the most part are perfectly understandable if sometimes a little bit literal. There are one or two however that seem to be on a higher astral plain altogether, such that I almost began to wonder if I hadn't picked up a volume of beat poetry by mistake. After all what self respecting Allen Ginsberg fan could turn their nose up at "The dish meat cloud swallows the hand pulled noodles" or "The pig of Zencheng stews pancakes", so when my companion finally arrived she found me with a big grin on my face and wondering if "Fry the ferry crossing clearly white" contained any interesting mushrooms. My companion frowned, she clearly had the upper hand linguistically and was soon in consultation with the waiter. The first result of which was a plate of rather wonderful spicy wontons. This was followed by a plate of steamed crab meat dumplings that quite simply took the breath away. The dumplings are sealed containers with the crab meat suspended in a light broth inside the dumpling. When you pop it into your mouth and bite, a little tsunami of taste floods the palette. The steamed pork buns were also notable. Six of them are somehow steamed together in a shallow pool of rice water which solidifies and joins them together with a thin membrane of rice paper. The buns are exceptionally light and fluffy and the pork hidden within is succulent and juicy. The "hand pulled" noodles are actually fresh noodles rolled on the premises. They are quite a revelation if you have never had fresh noodles before, being quite firm but also springy. Ours were served in a pork flavoured broth with tender chops that had been deep fried in a light batter. To go with them we also had sliced cucumber with garlic. They also have a range of desserts but we were already so full we decided to save them for another day. By 2pm the lunchtime rush had subsided and we were almost alone in the restaurant. The prices range from around $20 to $50 per dish, though there are more expensive ones, including sharks fin. For a quick lunch, Another One is excellent value for money. It also stays open all afternoon, so If you want to avoid the busy hour go after 2pm. If you're really hungry and can't wait, get there early. May 2005 Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar Well it's not actually in a tent, it's on the first floor of Koon Fook Centre at 9 Knutsford Terrace. It's also quite easy to miss if you are walking from the Knutsford Steps end of the lane. If you approach from Observatory Road you'll see a large advert hanging by the entrance just next door to the Whale Pub. I have fond, though admittedly fuzzy, memories of tent bars in South Korea. The ones that have been in were out in the provinces. Once they had got over the shock of a foreigner sticking his head round the flap they were all very friendly and welcoming and, despite not knowing what I was eating or drinking - and not understanding anything that was being said to me, I generally had a good old time. It was in a tent bar that I discovered kimchi and beer was a marriage made in heaven ... and that so-ju should be treated with respect. Apgujeong may not be a tent but the staff are still very friendly and it does capture a very traditional Korean feel with polished floorboards heavy wooden tables and the smell of rush mats mixing pleasantly with the aromas of cooking. I was shown to a table and promptly presented with a plate of kimchi, bean sprouts and tiny fish which had been marinated in honey and soy and sesame. I ordered a Cass beer ($28). The restaurant has been open for a couple of months now but the waitress informs me that the menu has already changed a lot during that time since they are still learning which dishes work well and which prove to be less popular. A quick glance told me that there was plenty that would probably keep me happy for several visits. Starters that included beef tartar with sweet pear ($128), Sea snails with chillies and spicy beef with squid and vegetables (both $75). I plumped for traditional Korean pancakes ($68). These are made from green beans, garlic and onion and are served piping hot with a sharp and spicy sauce. They were a perfect addition to the platter of kimchi and fishes. I ordered another beer. Apgujeong has an interesting range of hot pots and whilst the beef rib with chestnut ($78) and the Ginseng with chicken ($108) were both tempting I knew my limitations, I'd already ordered pan fried yellow fish ($70). This was tender and succulent and once again came with a sweet spicy sauce to dip it in.. It is quite a small restaurant and by now it was almost full but customers were still arriving. My final dish arrived along with another beer. The dish was kimchi with pork fried rice ($85) which is delivered in a stone pot with a raw egg on top. The idea is to mix it all together quickly but don't eat it too quickly. The rice that is in contact with the pot becomes a little crusty which makes for a wonderful contrast in texture between the crusty and the softer rice on the inside. Apgujeong is a welcome addition to the Knutsford Terrace strip whether you want a full meal or just drinks and snacks. Reservations are recommended, particularly at weekends. January 2005 Arirang Korean Restaurant Normally I have a very good sense of direction, if I've been to a place, or passed it by, once I can usually find my way back without too much trouble. The exception to this rule is if it happens to be in Harbour City or Ocean Terminal. On a previous visit I must have passed Arirang three or four times as I searched for the place I was looking for. So when a good friend and I decided to go for Korean I had no hesitation in suggesting Arirang. After all I knew exactly where it was. The doubt started creeping in almost as soon as I had put the phone down. I DID know where it was, I told myself, but just to be sure I decided to get there early. We'd agreed to meet at eight so at seven-thirty I strode boldly into Harbour City, up the escalator and ... it wasn't there. It must be the next floor up ... no ... down. I stopped to scrutinise a map. Arirang wasn't on it. I called the restaurant, they told me to go where I already thought I was. I eventually found the restaurant on the stroke of eight. Just as my friend walked calmly up from the opposite direction. "You found it OK then?" I asked, anxiously. "Yes, of course, why?" She replied. We were led to our table. Arirang is quite a popular restaurant and it was already quite busy. Attractive wood and glass partitions break up the space and help make it a little more intimate. It has a traditional atmosphere which is fitting because Arirang is traditional folk song that is found all over Korea with different regions each having their own version. Tea was poured and menus promptly delivered. The menu is quite large and varied and it took us quite a while to make our minds up. To help us along we ordered an OB beer ($28) each. For the barbecue we settled on the Modeum Gogi Gooi ($230), a meat combination that includes beef, pork, chicken and lamb. This was delivered with half a dozen kinds of bahn chahn or little side dishes. These included the classic cabbage and radish kimchee without which no Korean meal is complete plus vegetables and little fishes tossed in sesame oil among others. My friend was keen to try the Se Gyub Sahl Jorim ($110), pork belly braised in sweet soy stock. I was glad she was because otherwise I might have passed that one over and it turned out to be one of my favourite dishes from the meal, much less fatty than I was expecting. Kimchee Juhn ($60/$100) is a pancake like dish made with kimchee and pork in flour batter. Sahm Sek Juhn ($120) which consists of three kinds of vegetables filled with minced beef. Both of these dishes have a non-meat option. The kimchee pancake can be made without the pork and three kinds of vegetables can be fried without the minced beef which we decided to go for since we already had the barbecue and the pork belly. Finally we ordered Ggong Chi Gooi ($90) which was billed as lightly salted pike though I had my suspicion that it didn't mean the large freshwater fish that I was familiar with and indeed were distinctly sardine like. But that was no problem, I like sardines. The only dish that didn't really live up to expectations was the Kimchee juhn which seemed to be very dry and I think was suffering from being served in the vegetarian form. Though vegetarians should note that there are plenty of other vegetarian options available Korean cuisine isn't noted for it's desserts, there didn't appear to be any on the menu but sesame ice cream is served automatically at the end of each meal. As we left Ocean Terminal my friend led me through an exit that I'd never seen before and within moments we were back at Star Ferry. But I know if I try and retrace those steps I'll wind up in Jordan. October 2005 Arirang Korean Restaurant Shop G07 Ground Floor, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel 2956 3288 Aus 61 I went for a walkabout around the back of Causeway Bay the other evening. I was actually trying to navigate a passage from Jardines Bazaar to Canal Road but I got way laid by a Crocodile. Well, crocodile wonton to be precise. It was on Yui Wa Street, which is a little lane between the back of Times Square and Leighton Road. I saw the words Modern Australian Cuisine on window to my right, I screeched to a halt looked up and there was Aus 61. Modern Australian cuisine? 'Roo burgers, I thought and suddenly came over all hungry. I went inside. It's an easygoing, informal place with friendly staff. Simple but tastefull decor and an aboriginal motif on the table tops. I ordered a bottle of VB and turned my attention to the menu. As it happened there wasn't any 'roo on the menu but it didn't matter. The starter for me was a foregone conclusion. The Tasmanian Gravlax salmon ($55) - marinated in dill and lemon and served with avaocado, and the Bondi Beach cold prawns ($58) did catch my attention, but the Aus 61 Treasure Platter ($61) was not to be denied. This included deep fried crocodile wonton, emu kofta and crumbed fish goujon served with a Queensland scallop salad. The emu had quite a stong flavour - think lamb - and so as quite at home as a kofta. The croc surprised me with a much more delicate flavour. I also expected it to be rather chewy and though these were only wonton sized morsels they seemed quite tender. Together with the scallops and the fish, both of which were fresh and succulent, they were a very agreeable start to the meal. Main course was a much harder decision. Blue swimmer crab with angel hair pasta in XO and chardonnay sauce ($128) and the Gold coast garlic king prawns ($138) were both vying for attention but I eventually plumped for the Victorian lamb cutlets in dijon sauce. It was a small mountain on a plate and it was delicious. Tender and juicy lamb with carrots and roast potatoes, I wolfed it down in no time. Dessert was the classic pavlova, a meringue base filled with strawberries and other fruit and cream. This dish was originally created in Perth, Western Australia to celebrate the visit of the famous ballerina Anna Pavlova back in the 1930's. A coffee rounded things off and I emerged, replete, to continue my epic journey to canal road. Causeway Bay is much less menacing after dinner. Avenue Joffre Avenue Joffre was the main artery through Shanghai's old French Concession. The French had refused to join the international concession that was formed in 1863 by the British and Americans. Instead they set up their own quarter with its own electricity, bus and legal systems. It was an elegant district that attracted not only the French but international adventurers and Russian refugees along with an underbelly of gangsters, prostitutes and pimps. Indeed by the 1930's the French were vastly outnumbered. These days it is known as Huai Hai Zhong Lu but many of the old colonial buildings from the period have survived and become upscale restaurants and boutiques. We were in Causeway Bay, in a restaurant themed and named after the old avenue. It's a sprawling restaurant designed to give the feel of mansion from the period blending both Chinese and western styles. I'm no expert on period decor but it looked convincing enough to me, except for something that looked suspiciously like and electric piano in one of the other rooms, but I didn't get a close look. We didn't get to hear it either, the music playing was also from the period. We dined to the sounds of Louis Armstrong, Ella Fitzgerald and others. We ordered a bottle of Riesling and got the meal under way with some Spicy Chrysanthemum Stalks ($48). The spicy-ness is in the sauce that goes with them, the stalks themselves were crisp and fresh but had quite a mild flavour. It has a varied menu printed in both Chinese and English and there is also a menu of specials. We ordered three main dishes; Sauteed, Shredded Eel with Scallion ($108), Stewed Yunnan Ham in Honey Sauce ($180) and Braised Cabbage with Rice Wine sauce ($75). All three were good, the only dissent came from one of my companions who felt that the eel could have been improved upon, noting that it was a favourite dish of hers. I was in no position to argue, it was a first time for me and I have to confess I rather enjoyed it. We were all in complete agreement on the Yunnan ham which was quite delicious. Slices of ham are steeped in honey sauce and decorated with lotus seeds, jujubes and osmanthis. The slices are placed between folds of steamed bread. Our vegetable dish, the braised cabbage was crisp, fresh and piping hot. We had to wait a few minutes for it to cool down. We were pretty full but we did find just enough room to share a portion of chilled osmanthis and water chestnut cake for dessert. July 2005 Baba Laksa Tripping out of Tin Hau station on the way to the lunar new year flower market, I suddenly noticed it was lunchtime. A quick turn left along Hing Fat Street and I nipped into Baba Laksa, which of course, I'd never seen before. It would seem to be at a disadvantage along such a busy one-way, no-stopping road, but at 1.30pm, the place was almost full. A high ceiling, clean white walls and simple dark furniture set the tone. I managed to grab a table near the door just as the previous people were leaving. The small menu features curry laksas, mees, some extra spicy 'pepper mees', Hainan chicken ($45), and a few snacks such as satay sticks ($22), or belacan chicken wings. The main dishes range from $35 to $55. At lunchtime this will include a drink with your order. There are some sets for $26 which were a mystery to me as that menu was in Chinese only. Oh, well.. I wouldn't call myself a Laksa connoiseur, but it arrived looking perfect to me - thick soup with hints of chilli, creamy texture, stuffed full of noodles and goodies. I set to (though I was a bit dubious about the look of the large prawn - so dubious, in fact, that I left that aside). The coconut curry soup was gently spicy, and I think purists would say not spicy enough. I appreciated it, however, as I'm not into getting my tongue burnt off. There were lots of bean sprouts, and real pork (hmm - is that authentic laksa? Not really, but who cares?). The dish was a fairly big one - definitely enough to satifsy a hungry shopper. The peach tea was, as expected, yummy. Very sweet though - it gave me enough of a sugar rush to spend nearly 2 hours fighting the crowds and haggling in the market, before calling it a day. If you find yourself in the Tin Hau area, I would recommend this place as a good fill-up joint. The prices are reasonable, the surroundings no-frills, but clean and spacious, and the food, though not authentic Malay or Singaporean laksa, is tasty. You can't ask for much more than that. Baba Laksa G/F Bella House, 102 Hing Fat Street, Tin Hau Tel 2887 2098 Babek I really love Indian food. A good curry was one of the first things I started going to restaurants for. Mum was not very good at Indian food and as soon as I'd discovered that the ones that came out of a box were nothing like the ones that came out of a restaurant there was no turning back. In student days going out for a curry was a weekend treat and I even learned a little bit about cooking them myself. While there are, of course, many regional variations the essential formula of an Indian meal hasn't changed in all the years I've been enjoying them. You have a curry dish, maybe some tandoori meat, a dal, some raita. You mix and match with a few friends and mop it all up with nan bread or rice. It is a formula that is much loved by Indian enthusiasts all over the world and it would be a brave chef indeed that tried something different. Babek, which opened at the bottom of Elgin Street just a few weeks ago has such a chef and I stopped by to check it out. The decor is modern and sitar accented mood music playing softly in the background gave the only hint of the cuisine that was to be served. The staff were friendly and more than happy to explain the items on the menu. The menu, for an indecisive person such as myself, was a perfect solution. It is essentially built around the idea of a set dinner. For a very reasonable $250 you get a steady flow of courses until you have sampled a small portion of everything. A la carte is also available where you can order larger servings of just the dishes you choose. After a brief consultation with the waitresses I decided to go for the set. There would be ten courses altogether, I ordered a Kingfisher beer to go with it. First up was Mutter Ki Tikki, two small cakes of spiced peas pâté which I wolfed down in no time at all. These were followed by a small rack containing three cute little test tube shaped vessels containing, regular, strawberry and mango flavoured lassi. After the lassi came Mahi Dill Tikka, a chunk of fresh mackerel marinated in cream cheese and dill, Paneer and bell pepper Shashlik and Jheenga Peri Peri spicy jumbo prawn on a sizzling hot plate. These were served with a light, slightly sweet bread called sheermal which comes from the Lucknow area in northern India. All the dishes so far had been very good. I think my favourite had been the mackerel which had been served with a pineapple and green apple sauce. It was tempting to order an extra portion but I knew there was more to come. A lime sorbet came next to cleanse the palette ready for the final round. Tandoori chicken was followed by Peshawari Champ, which are deliciously spiced char-grilled lamb chops, and lastly tender duck breast flavoured with cinnamon and orange peel. These were served with a creamy dal Babek and nan bread. The duck was right up there with the mackerel in my affections but I hadn't been disappointed with any of the dishes. The finale was two desserts, Ras Malaiwhich is fresh cottage cheese soaked in a light saffron dressing and Kulfi Elaechi, home made ice cream flavoured with green cardamon. It had been a most enjoyable meal and I hope it leads to even greater innovation. While I doubt the classic formula will ever lose it's popularity, Babek shows that there is ample room for new ideas. For people with smaller appetites, a variation of the set dinner is available for $175 which includes four of the six main dishes. Babek G/F 9, Elgin Street Soho Baci Baci is one of those restaurants that has been around for so long that it is almost embarrassing to admit that I'd never been there. I was forced to confront the situation a few days ago when a friend asked me if I'd been over to try out the new menu. After thinking for a few moments I had to confess that I hadn't even tried the old menu. So I set out the other evening to rectify the issue. I had hoped to talk my friend into coming with me but we couldn't find a mutually agreeable date before she flew out. So undeterred I went alone. I got there just after seven and the bar already had a considerable number of people who had stopped by a for an after work drink. I went straight through to the dining area. The restaurant is on the 2nd and 3rd floors (Baci Pizza is on the 1st). The decor is sleek and chic with gold and mirrored walls and simple but comfortable furniture. I was shown to a table on the second floor. Neither of the floors are big, on my floor there were only seven tables offering seating for a maximum of 18 people. I settled into my chair and ordered a glass of fruity Vale Viognier ($78). The bread basket arrived and I delved into the menu. Although a few favourites have been retained the majority of the items boast a "new" symbol next to them. They all sounded good. For starters I was tempted to oder the Crab salad with carrots and mango ($108) but in the end I plumped for the Carpaccio Arcobaleno ($118). This is very thinly sliced pieces of smoked salmon, tuna and swordfish with extra virgin olive oil and arugula leaves. I was pleased. The fish was tasty and melted in the mouth. It didn't last long and soon I was mopping up the olive oil with the remains of the bread basket. For the main course I'd narrowed my choices down to home made ravioli stuffed with Duck and goose liver ($198) and roasted lamb loin in porcine mushroom sauce ($228). I opted for the lamb. The dish took rather longer to arrive than I would have expected. I put this down to the chefs pursuit of excellence for when it did arrive it proved to be well worth waiting for. The lamb, rolled in rosemary and bread crumbs, was both tender and succulent. Served with a deliciously creamy creamed potatoes and, of course, the mushroom sauce. In light of this it seemed silly to worry about a few extra minutes wait. For dessert I ordered baked custard tart with pine nuts and also asked for coffee to be served with the dessert. It was another long wait. This time, after the dish had arrived, i couldn't help thinking that perhaps I should have opted for the home made ice cream. The tart was pleasant enough but had I known I was going to wait twenty minutes for it I might have thought again. It was a shame the delays marred what would otherwise have been a very pleasant meal indeed. I prefer to think these are just minor issues that are associated with the kitchen staff getting used to preparing a whole new menu and before long everything will be running smoothly. I drank my coffee slowly and began to mentally compose the report I would later e-mail to my friend. April 2006 Bagel Factory/Soho Bakery Priding itself on authentic boiled-then-baked chewy bagels for $8 each, the Bagel Factory is a great place to stop off for lunch or get a takeaway. There are nine varieties of bagel to choose from (from garlic to blueberry or cinnamon) and fillings mostly based on cream cheese with perhaps smoked salmon, or onion/chives. Salads are also available from $15-20, and if thats not going to fill you up, there are pies, latka, sausage rolls, and a very filling chicken salad in pitta bread which will set you back $35. Next door in the Soho Bakery is the sweet stuff. From danishes and cheesecakes to lamingtons for homesick Australians. There is also freshly baked bread all day, the aroma of which should direct you easily to the shop from elsewhere on Elgin Street. 22 March 2004 Balalaika A balalaika is a small three stringed folk instrument from eastern Europe. They have a triangular body and a neck about the size of a ukulele. The only one I know of in Hong Kong is played nightly and with much verve at the restaurant of the same name in Knutsford Terrace. We arrived about 7.45pm on a weekday - we didn't have a reservation and we were probably lucky to get a table. The restaurant resembles a traditional style hunting lodge complete with wooden beams and Russian themed folk art decorations. There is a dedicated piroshki oven and a walk in deep freeze for keeping the vodka at optimum temperature. The tables are arranged in a way that makes it easy to accommodate large groups as well as small groups and seating for two. Though intimacy, it has to be admitted, is not one of the restaurants main selling points. The emphasis is strictly on fun. The music starts at 8pm and by then the place was packed. Waitresses were darting hither and thither. Taking orders, delivering orders and whipping-up support - for each shashlik that was served was ceremonially christened with vodka and flamed to a round of applause from anyone who happened to be sitting nearby. We were still making our minds up. The menu boasts three different kinds of caviar, for those that really want to spoil themselves. Beluga, Oscetra and Sevruga. Prices start at $280 and rise to a princely $700 for 30 grams of top-of-the-line Iranian beluga. But if caviar is beyond your budget (and it was certainly beyond ours), you can still order a bliny ... or two. These are the small pancakes that caviar is traditionally served with but they can also be served with any number of other things. We ordered a crab meat and mushroom and a smoked salmon at $25 each. We also ordered a mushroom piroshki for good measure. A piroshki is perhaps best described as a kind of dumpling, though it has a bread-like exterior wrapped around a warm filling. There are a few listed on the menu but the chef bakes them fresh so it is always worth asking the waitress what specials the chef has that day. Our waitress had a smile that could melt the vodka room so I jumped at any excuse to call her over. For main course we had ordered a seafood shashlik ($135) and duck stew ($125). Shashlik is essentially a kebab. The seafood option included a large tiger prawn plus generous salmon, sturgeon and cod steaks. They arrive at the table suspended vertically and are flamed as described above and came with rice potatoes and vegetables. The duck, stewed with apples, prunes, apricots and potatoes, was very tender with a delicious fruity tang. It is served in a pot with a freshly baked brown bread crust. We decided a little rest was in order before dessert so we took the opportunity to visit the walk-in vodka freezer. The temperature in the freezer is kept so low that visitors are provided with snug fur coats to go inside and admire the roughly 30 different vodkas from all around the world, including arctic fruit flavoured vodkas. They also serve vodka jelly and an oyster shooter. The most interesting of the desserts are fruit based. We ordered a Russian mixed fruit pudding, which included raspberries and cranberries. It had a very sharp flavour, and while I found it most enjoyable it probably wouldn't appeal to someone who was expecting something sweet. Balalaika also has a VIP room which deserves a mention. Whilst the main dining area has rustic feel to it, the VIP room is straight from one of the TzarsÕ Palaces, with ornate furnishing and a huge chandelier. The VIP room can seat up to 14 people at a minimum charge of $300 each. Balalaika is open from 5.00pm to midnight on weekdays, and until 1.00am Saturdays and Sundays. 23 September 2004 Balle Balle Indian Cuisine Every so often we get the urge to wander along one of those tiny little roads between Hollywood Road and Queens Road, just to make sure we're not missing anything. Occasionally we are rewarded. The other evening took us along Peel Street, down the hill from Hollywood Road. On the left just after crossing Cage Street, buried behind the street markets, we found an Indian restaurant that we'd never seen before. It is called Balle Balle and has been open for about three months. There had been something there before but after racking our brains for a while, and watching one of a group of chefs roll out parathas outside, we still couldn't remember what. We went in. It is a small cosy restaurant with just a few tables. A TV in the corner plays Indian pop videos but it was neither loud or intrusive, rather it lends the place a comfortable homely feel. We settled into our table and ordered beers. The menu contains all our old favourites. In the appetizers section there are samosas, pakoras and onion bahjias but there were also a few that were a little more intriguing. The waiter recommended the chilli chicken ($31), deep fried chicken with tomato, capsicum and chilli sauce. He told us that it had become one of their most popular dishes. To go along with it we ordered my old favourite, mutton rogan josh ($40), vegetable kebab ($38) and a mixed riata ($17) where the yoghurt is mixed with diced tomatoes, cucumber and onions. And to mop it all up we added a lacha paratha ($11) and a plain nan ($10). There was only one chef outside now to making the parathas, the others no doubt had adjourned to the kitchen to get busy with our order. To keep us going while the food was being prepared the waiter brought us complementary masala poppadoms. The food when it arrived made us gasp. The servings were very generous indeed and we wondered how we were going to eat it all but not being the kind of folks that shrink in the face of adversity we tucked in. I aimed for the rogan josh, my companion, the chilli chicken. The mutton was lean and tender the sauce was thick and rich and not too oily as it sometimes can be. I could tell by the look on my companions face that the chicken was living up to its promise. The vegetable kebabs had arrived on a sizzling plate but were now cool enough eat. Made from soya they had a meat like texture, a little chewy but definitely had a vegetarian flavour. I mopped a corner of my plate clean with a wonderfully light and fluffy piece of nan and asked my companion to pass me the chilli chicken. She did so but only after I had bartered the largest piece of mutton in the rogan josh AND the fifth piece of the vegetable kebab (I didn't tell her that there was a sixth piece hiding under the lemon). It was obvious why she was being possessive about the chicken, it was quite wonderful. The waiter told us the dish originated in southern India. It isn't as fiery as it's name might suggest, the sauce is a little bit spicy and a little bit sweet, the chicken lean and soft. Eventually we both sat back with contented, smug looks on our faces. "I'm full", I said. "Couldn't eat another thing", she replied. "Gulab jamun?" I said ... We shared it. Balle Balle is open for dinner from 6-10.30pm when we were there it wasn't too busy but the waiter did warn that anyone wanting to go for lunch (11.00-4.30 should either go early or plan a late lunch as they get very busy. February 2005   Bahama Mama's The old brass diving helmet behind the bar looks rather like an innocent piece of decor. It fits in rather well with the rowing boat that hangs from the ceiling, the giant carved toucan, the pottted palms and the old hurricane lamps. I was mid-way through my second innocent-looking drink. That's the thing about cocktails, they do look so innocent. They don't taste innocent though, and the ones in Bahama Mama's (at $54 each - $32 in happy hour) aren't called innocent things. I'd already had Sex on Mama's Beach (vodka, peach schnapps, cranberry and orange Juice) and was soaking up a Carribean Sunset (Myers rum, Triple Sec, Grenadine, lime and pineapple Juice). It was then that the old diving helmet caught my attention. 'I wonder what it's like to wear one of those,' I thought. My companion read my thoughts and promptly swung into action; "Look at the menu" she said, "They have a good range of pub grub; chicken wings, nachos, pizza, onion rings. She also tried to tell me about the foosball tournaments they hold every month, that happy hour is from 5-9pm and again from midnight to close, that you could get six shots of tequila or vodka for a hundred dollars (I must admit that one did catch my attention). She informed me that Newsweek International had rated it as "One of the world's best bars" But it was no good, I was dreaming of sunken treasure and the music of steel drums ... but most of all I wanted to try that old diving helmet on. Bahama Mama's is at 4-5 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui and is open from 5pm - 3am (Mon - Thu) 5pm - 4 am (Fri & Sat), 6pm - 2am (Sun). 10 September Bali House It's always nice to stumble upon somewhere new, especially when it is in a area that you thought you knew pretty well. Bali house is a small Indonesian/Chinese place that I'm sure I must have walked past a hundred times and never noticed. Perhaps this is because, unlike most of the restaurants shoe-horned into this area, Bali House is aimed squarely at the local inhabitants and has nothing much to catch the eye. It is also just across the road from Chez Patrick and I'm probably looking in the other direction when I pass. But there are two gatekeepers stationed either side of the door. On the left a ginger and white cat, and on the right a bilingual mynah bird that greets patrons in both English and Cantonese. I said "good evening" as I walked in. It cocked it's head to one side and looked at me in the way that birds do when they think you are talking rubbish. The decor is basic but the welcome was warm enough. I was ushered to a table and a glass of weak tea was promptly produced. I took a moment or two to find a menu, during which time I cast an eye around the room. The staff seemed to know all the customers and some of those seemed to know each other as well. A large pile of freshly loaded satay sticks stood on the table at the very back. The menu duly arrived. It was a rather confusing affair, several dishes seemed to be listed twice and nasi goreng was conspicuous by it's absence. Or maybe I just didn't notice it. No matter - I had already decided on half a dozen chicken satay. Which were delivered piping hot and with a nice cold bottle of Tsing Tao. The peanut sauce wasn't too spicy but there was some chilli in shrimp sauce on the table so I could mix to taste. I also pointed out a dished called Ikan Assam Pedas - the picture looked good. Ikan is fish and there appeared to be chillies as well. The man shook his head and offered sambal ikan, so I thought, why not?.Sambal is essentially a sauce, it consists of fresh chillies, shrimp paste, lime juice, sugar, and salt. That said, every Indonesian home cook has their own variation. This had pineapple in. Normally I would draw the line at pineapple in a savoury dish but I didn't mind this at all. There was something in the sauce that prevented it from becoming overwhelmingly sweet. Dessert was the Thai classic, mango with black sticky rice and coconut cream. A generous serving it was too. For the princely sum of $127 I decided it was good value indeed. You wouldn't bring a first date here and it wouldn't impress any clients either. But when you're feeling a little peckish and you can't make up your mind what you want, remember the little Indonesian place on Peel Street. I whistled at the mynah on the way out and headed towards the Pickled Pelican for a beer. Bali House 33 Peel Street Central Hong Kong BB's Bistro I don't get myself over to Kowloon side very often. Very slack of me I admit because there is no shortage of excellent places to eat. Fate took me over there the other afternoon so as soon as I was free I mad a beeline for Knutsford Terrace. I'd been planning to check out all the options along the Terrace and in Observatory Court but then the rain beat me to it. Fortunately I was right outside BB's Bistro which had been high on the list of possibilities anyway. So I decided to dive inside and save the research for more clement weather. The good thing about wet weather is that there are fewer people out and about. On previous occasions when I'd thought about dining at BB's it has always looked very busy. This time I almost had the place to myself. A friendly waiter showed me to a table by the window and we chatted briefly about the new Premier League football season while another went to fetch the menus and a blackboard with the days oysters options. I declined the oysters but Im did order a glass of very nice Chilean Sauvignon to read the menu with. The menu is very French and I'm sure I would have been happy with just about anything but one that took my fancy for starters was the Salted Codfish, with Bell Pepper, Asparagus and Mozzarella ($82). It also had mango but that was fine by me, I love mango. The dish was presented as a neat little tower over which the waiter ground some black pepper. It tasted as good as it looked and I demolished it with gusto. For main course I had Loin of black pork with polenta and glazed vegetables ($188). A thick and juicy cut of pork on a polenta base topped with carrots and onions and garlic. The waiter kept stopping by for a little banter, his way of making sure everything was OK without having to repeat the same question for every course. For desert he recommended the Rhubarb Confit with Oranges and Candied Fennel ($52). A comparatively new dish to the menu he informed me. And one that I expect to be on the menu for some time to come. Quite a few more guests had arrived by now and despite the weather the restaurant was doing well. I finished with a coffee and splashed off into the night telling myself that I really must get over this side more often. BB's Bistro 13 Knutsford Terrace Tsim Sha Tsui Tel 2316 2212 Big Ernie's Diner We needed comfort food. My son had recently got himself sandwiched between a rapidly moving mountain bike and and a very stationary stone wall and was feeling sorry for himself. I met up with him in Wanchai and figured a trip to Big Ernies might do the trick. Big Ernies is an American style diner decorated in 1950's retro and playing period music at a volume that it is rarely played at outside my ipod. It is a young peoples' place. At least it seems to appeal to both young people and people who just want to feel a bit younger. Well it worked for me anyway. The boy wasn't interested in Eddie Cochran, he had his nose buried in the menu trying to decide if he wanted Spuds and Cheese or Onion Rings. Spuds and cheese ($55) won the day. I ordered a Pregnant Craving ($58). The waiter chuckled, my son looked mortified "Are you pregnant then, dad?" he asked. I assured him I wasn't but I really liked the sound of deep fried mozzarella cheese and pickles served with a tangy salsa sauce. He enjoyed them too. The potato skins came stuffed with bacon and cheese, a swirl of sour cream and their own tub of salsa. Elvis was at his peak, cars slid by outside and crazy neon burned across the road. It was still quite early but the place was busy, some customers having stopped in for a beer after work. Others, like ourselves, there for a quick, no fuss dinner. My son was already busying himself with a plate of fish and chips ($108). Trying to extract ketchup with three fingers of one hand and most of the other arm covered in bandages looked to be something of a challenge, but he was determined to do it alone. I'm not sure I would have liked quite so much ketchup but it didn't phase him. He wolfed the lot down in no time. I went for the "Blue Suede Memphis" ($88). This is a burger with blue cheese topped with onion rings and served with chips and coleslaw. For dessert we ordered the apple pie with ice cream and the cheese cake with oreo cookies ($50 each). These were both well received, and after the plates had been suitably polished he leaned back in his chair, smiled, and said "I'm full." It's not something he'll admit to all that often. I smiled too. His knuckles and arm may take a little longer but his battered pride was well on the mend. Just what the doctor ordered!. Bizou There has been such a flurry of new openings in SoHo recently that it is quite a challenge just to keep up. But I'd been told good things about Bizou, which opened about 6-8 weeks ago at 49 Elgin Street, so I went along to see for myself. It is a Californian style Bistro specializing in rotisserie-cooked meats and fish. I arrived about 7.30 and bagged the a table by the widow. The decor is understated but elegant. The high ceiling gives an agreeable feeling of openness and space, which is accentuated by a large mirror on one of the walls, even though the actual floor space is probably no bigger than most other restaurants in the area. The rotisserie was custom built to fit the semi-open kitchen. I ordered a glass of Pinot Grigio and turned my attention to the menu. I was very tempted by the soft shelled crab with avocado ($98) and also by the summer sweet corn, bacon and tarragon chowder ($58) but in the end I pipped for the Romaine lettuce hearts with bacon and a lemon parmesan dressing ($88). It was delicious, the lettuce was as fresh as could be hoped for and the dressing sharp but not overwhelming. I wolfed it down in no time and was soon mopping the plate clean with bread. There were numerous main dishes that caught my attention and as is often the way I had to make a short list. Suckling pig with a honey mustard glaze ($158) was a strong contender as was the slow roasted long Island duck ($168). But in the end I just could not resist the whole roasted bream ($168) with sauteed garlic spinach and a sun dried tomato vinaigrette. The fish was tender, succulent and cooked to perfection, it's delicate flavour balanced well with the sweetly tangy vinaigrette. I felt I had made an excellent choice. The restaurant was starting to fill up a bit now and it had also been getting a lot of attention from passers by, stopping to read the menu outside. After a short pause I put in a bid for dessert. The manager was keen for me to try the four berries crumble with vanilla ice cream ($52). The only thing standing in its way was the rum and raisin bread pudding with banana ice cream. In the end I went with the managers suggestion and am happy to report that it lived up to the very high standard set by the previous courses. In all of the dishes I'd tried I had been impressed by the freshness of the ingredients and the berries in the dessert were no exception. Strawberries, raspberries, cranberries and no doubt the fourth berry which, I have to confess, I didn't notice I hadn't identified until I came to write about it. I settled back with a coffee and watched as the waiters ferried orders to the kitchen and food to the other diners. The bream, at least on that evening, was proving to be a very popular dish. June 2005 Blues by the Bay I'm afraid the Tsim Sha Tsui's Avenue of Stars isn't what I would have chosen for a promanade but, judging by the number of people out enjoying themselves, I'm rather a small minority. Since it is facing Hong Kong's impressive skyline I can forgive it once in a while and still enjoy a stroll, especially around twilight, that marvelous time between light and dark, on a balmy summer evening. There were a lot of people out though surprisingly few of them tourists. A couple of brave joggers were weaving their way between the children, comparing their paw prints to those of Jackie Chan, and everyone else who seemed to be having their photograph taken against something or other. For me the skyline, the lights and the boats chugging by were entertainment enough ... well almost. Towards the end of the promenade, down by the New World Centre, I could see some tables. Suddenly I had a mission. Perhaps a little bit too far round to be perfect but the al fresco tables do still afford quite spectacular views, especially if you sit looking back towards Wanchai. The bay that the restaurant names itself after is presumably Causway Bay whichis just about opposite. And the blues, in fact jazz standards being sung by Rod Stewart which, in my opinion, have all been done better by other people. But I'd probably be in a minority on that as well. The menu has quite a wide range of choices and though it does have a slight Thai bias red curries and beef salads rub shoulders with items such as escargot and lobster thermidor. I ordered a Pomelo Seafood Salad ($88) and a glass of Chardonay to get proceedings underway. It was a generous serving of pomelo, in a spicy peanut dressing. It tasted good but the there were only a few scallops and prawns representing the seafood which was a little disappointing. For the main course I ordered Pan-fried Cod with asparagas ($138). Although the cod was not as generous a portion as one could have hoped for, the Thai style sweet and spicey sauce that went over it certainly was. There was too much and it overwhelmed the delicate flavour of the fish which, once the sauce had been removed, was really quite nice. The asparagas was fresh and crisp. For dessert I ordered Fried Bananas with three scoops of Vanila Ice Cream ($58) and rounded off with a coffee. The dessert was good but I couldn't help feeling a little disappointed with the rest of the meal. I sat for quite a while watching families walking by, watching customers come and go. It's quite a popular restaurant and it's a really nice location. I'll certainly come again but next time maybe just for drinks. July 2005 Boca Boca is a trendy European style bar on Peel Street at the junction with Elgin Street and Staunton Street. I'd decided to go along for some early evening tapas and was lucky enough to secure the table at the front by the door. The bustle of Soho as it comes alive for the evening combines well with the Latin-flavoured jazzy grooves that were playing within. The word tapas comes from the Spanish verb 'tapar', which means to cover, and was essentially a free snack that was placed on top of a drink. According to legend the first tapa was a slice of ham that was placed on a sherry glass to keep flies out. Bar owners realised that the saltiness of the ham encouraged customers to drink more and thus a tradition was born. Today the term refers to almost any snack sized dish, traditional or modern and need only be limited by the chefs imagination. I'd come in search of the more traditional tapas. These are listed down the left hand side of the menu while the more modern variants are on the right. I decided to order three dishes, the grilled chorizo ($56) is a favourite of mine so that was easy. The other two choices required a little more thought. The pepper crusted tuna fillet, and the grilled sardines with sea salt and garlic both sounded tempting. Finally, after much consultation with the manageress Emmy, I decided on Gambas al Ajillo ($69) and Albondigas ($56). Chorizo is spicy pork sausage flavoured with paprika. Sliced and grilled it is an excellent snack that goes just as easily with a cold beer as it does with wine. Gambas is prawns and these are prepared with artichokes and spinach and sautéed in paprika. Albondigas are another classic tapas dish comprising of spicy beef meatballs in rosemary and tomato sauce. Finally, a basket of home-made bread - perfect for dipping. Had I not been in danger of overdoing it I might have been tempted by some of options on the "not-so-traditional" side of the menu which included dishes such as stir fried wild mushrooms sautŽed in Thai spices or roasted garlic and brie. Ah but there'll be another time. As to be expected Boca also has a wide selection of wines from all over the world which are offered by the bottle or by the glass and, of course, sangria by the carafe or glass. Desserts are not in much demand in tapas bars, due perhaps to the idea that tapas are a pre-dinner snack, but the Boca menu does offer a chocolate sponge pudding smothered in hot chocolate sauce and served with fresh strawberries, blueberries and Kiwi fruit. Boca is open everyday from 12.00 till 2am. Reservations are recommended 20 May 2004 Bubba Gump Shrimp Co Guest review My hike up the Peak every weekend is made more pleasant with something to look forward to - gulping down a four-glass shaker of magarita that costs only $70. Besides that, I get to eat shrimps cooked in every possible way - shrimps in tasty buttery/cajun broth, cajun shrimps, fried shrimps, grilled shrimps, cold salad shrimps, and the list goes on. The servings are generous, unlike those usual shrimp dishes where you only get five small shrimps that can hardly satisfy your shrimp craving. It's not just all shrimps, however. There's also juicy burgers, pan fried fish and other mainstream dishes. However, the highlight and chef's recommendation is of course, the cajun shrimp. Main dishes cost about HK$100-170, while appetisers cost less than HK$100. Because of the generous servings, just one main dish and another appetiser is enough to fill up two adults. If you order a shrimp platter, you even get to read the Forrest Gump newspaper which wraps up the platter of shrimps. And the best thing is the Bubba Gump Shrimp Co Restaurant is one of the best spots to see the fireworks and admire the Hong Kong skyline while devouring your meal. Some might say there's a Forrest Gump overload, but I admit that I am a Gump fanatic and the souvenir store piled with Gump-themed T-shirts, water bottles, tank tops, towels, etc is just fab. I got one that says: I love Bubba. Forrest Gump fans get to watch the movie replayed over and over again, while sports fans can also watch seasonal games in the bar area. Don't forget to look out for all the famous quotes from the movie on the walls, tables and on the T-shirts of course: 'Run Forrest Run' and 'Mama says life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are getting'. In Bubba Gump, though, you can be sure that at the least, you'll be getting some great food. Bubba Gump Shrimp Co Shop 5 Level 3 The Peak Tower 128 Peak Road The Peak Hong Kong Tel 2849 2867 Bulldogs Bulldogs Bar and Grill, Lan Kwai Fong's newest watering hole bills itself a British/Autralian pub and is the only traditional style tavern in Lan Kwai Fong. On the menu is classic pub grub in the form of burgers and pastas, plus a range of finger foods that includes tortilla chips, chicken strips and potato skins. You can also order a "Dog Platter" which is a selection of all the finger foods. We were there so soon after the doors opened that the full menu hadn't been implemented yet so expect more to come in the very near future The burgers, a huge beef patty with a choice of toppings, are served with salad and chips (though some people call them French fries). The pastas are similarly generous. I tested the portions out on my son, a growing lad with the kind of appetite that only teenagers are capable of. He wolfed more than his fair share of potato skins, a Bulldog Burger - topped with mushrooms and a slice of jack cheese - and chips before announcing he was full. There are two bars. The main bar and dining area stretches right the way through the building from the entrance on Lan Kwai Fong. Beyond this is the Birdwatchers Bar, a balcony bar that overlooks D'Aguilar Street, named no doubt for the dedicated ornithologists who like to keep an eye on who is swanning up and down the road. There are several TV screens in the bar areas so expect Saturday nights in the footy season to be boisterous affairs. The dining area is located between the Birdwatchers Bar and a big red telephone box, away from the TVs. The range of draught beers includes their own signature beer, Bulldog Brew, plus Fosters, Newcastle Brown Ale, Beamish, Strongbow Cider and Boddingtons. Of the bottled variety there are ten to choose from, including San Miguel imported from the Philippines, Corona, Asahi and Molsen plus all the usual suspects. Bulldogs Bar and Grill, 17 lan Kwai Fong Central. Tel 2523 3528. Happy Hour until 9.00pm. 29 March 2004 Burger Joint I do like a burger sometimes. Problem is that whenever I get the urge for a burger I'm usually a long way from where I know I can get one. A decent one at any rate. The problem is being addressed. There have been few small burger joints opening up around town that occupy an agreeable middle ground between the golden arches and the bigger sit down places like Dan Ryan's. I found one of these on Hillier Street the other day. Called simply Burger Joint and, aside from a handful of side dishes, that is all they sell. There are ten in total on the menu. Seven made with beef, a chicken, a fish and a vegetarian option called the Porto-burger. This is made with a "juicy Portobello mushroom topped with grilled zucchini, spinach and herb infused bell peppers. I must confess the porto-burger nearly got me and I had to remind myself that it was a beef burger I'd been hankering after and it was a beef burger I should have. I went for the Meaty Monster ($62). The meaty Monster comes with strips of crispy bacon on top along with caramelised onions. I could have added the grilled zucchini as an extra topping for $6 but instead I had a side order of breaded mushrooms ($18). Both were enjoyable. There is a range of sauces on the table though most of them seem to mayo based. I'm not particularly fond of mayo so I gave them a miss. It was a pretty decent burger. It satisfied the craving and the mushrooms were an added bonus. I made a mental note to go back and try the porto-burger soon. Burger Joint don't do a roaring trade in the evenings, they close at 9.00 but I was assured that they do get very bust at lunch times. Burger Joint Hillier Street Sheung Wan Byte I decided to stop into Byte for Sunday Brunch. They offer a set menu for $150 which includes a cold buffet, a choice of main dishes, then back to the buffet for desert and cheese and biscuits. The restaurant is laid out on two levels and has a modern but comfortable interior. A selection of magazines is available and there is a plasma TV for sports fans. There are also tables outside but although the restaurant wasn't crowded I did notice that these had been reserved. So if you like to lunch in the open it is best to make reservations. Inside Frank Sinatra was in fine voice as I made my way to the buffet. The available dishes vary from week to week depending on what produce was available but there is certainly no shortage of choice. Prawns, smoked salmon, lamb chops, assorted cold cuts, roast pumpkin, pasta and salads to name a few. One item that particularly caught my attention were tin law, Chinese edible snails. This was a welcome treat as they are quite unusual to find these days. The breadth of choice extends to the main courses as well. You can choose between the familiar American style sausage, eggs ham and hash browns or any one of the alternatives which included both Indian and Thai style curries, fussili with feta cheese and smoked Salmon, fish and chips and several other dishes. For those that prefer, the full a la carte menu is also available offering a range of international and Asian options including burgers and hot dogs, pizzas, spaghetti, noodles and curries. By the time I got to desert I was already full, I made a little bit of space to try the cranberry pudding but was forced to give the cheese and biscuits a miss even though the brie did look very tempting indeed. Afterwards I decided to walk back up Sha Wan Drive and along Victoria road to Kennedy Town. It¹s not a classic country walk by any means but it is a pleasant stroll on a quiet Sunday afternoon. Especially after a good lunch. Brunch at Byte is served on Sundays from 12 -3 pm. April 2005 Cafe Deco Half the fun of the Peak is just getting there. Usually, after a look at the queues for the Peak Tram, we hop straight into a taxi, but this time opted for the white-knuckle ride at the front of the number 15 bus from Exchange Square. We arrived at Cafe Deco feeling a little shaky, but the efficient staff soon put us at ease and escorted us to our window table. (Remember to request one when you book, as they always fill up first). Cafe Deco is a glamorous place. Sheer glass walls on both floors make the most of the spectacular views. But while modern Hong Kong provides the backdrop, inside is definitely Deco from the feature spiral staircase and chequered floor right down to the details on the chairs, crisp white linen napkins and an impressive collection of original art deco artifacts. Strange ambient music was playing when we arrived but this was rectified when a jazz quartet took to the stage upstairs a little later. Considering the size of the restaurant, it has a surprisingly quiet and peaceful atmosphere. If it's possible to get bored gazing over Victoria harbour, you can always watch the chefs going about their business in the front kitchen along one side of the restaurant. The wine list is impressive, offering selections that could challenge some very deep pockets. There is even a choice of house wines; three white and three red. We plumped for the Belmonte Sauvignon Blanc 2002 at $270, or $54 per glass. There is a choice of champagnes from $95/glass, and champagne cocktails from $118. Draught beer (San Miguel or Fosters) is available at $55/pint. The menu offers a wide variety of international dishes including pizza, pasta, risotto, tandoori (including ostrich, which we found hard to resist), a grill section and a large selection of 'Asian specialties'. While cruising the starter menu, we decided to skip all 14 of the oyster options (from $29 each) and save energy by ordering the Cafe Deco starter platter: cajun spiced crab cake, thai spring rolls, pork and papaya salad, smoked salmon pizetta, and grilled beef fahita quesadilla ($128 - good to share). We also ordered a California roll ($48) from an extensive Japanese menu that includes foie gras hand roll ($148), a 26 piece sashimi 'blue plate' ($598), and 10 choices of sake. For our main courses we headed straight for the grill section of the menu, and after being warned that the Cornish game hen would require a wait of 45 minutes, we chose the the Victorian lamb chops with roast potatoes (you could also choose between mashed, baked or fries) and daily vegetables (or salad) $165, and the succulent one-inch thick Angus beef fillet $238. We were so full we could hardly find room for dessert, so we bravely ignored the Tiramisu and German cheesecake and ordered the 'hot fudge gay 90s' - a scoop of vanilla ice cream with hot fudge sauce and whipped cream - yum! If you enjoy cigars to finish off a luxurious meal, Cafe Deco has a large selection from $55 for a Bolivar Coronus Junior. Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday: 11.30 am to midnight; Friday & Saturday: 11.30 am to 1.00 am; Sunday & Public Holidays: 9.30 am to midnight. 21 April 2004 Cafe Graham Guest Review The restaurant is conveniently located along Graham Street (where else?) in Soho, just down from the busy and sometimes rowdy Staunton Street. The walls are completely covered with an eclectic mix of pictures, from a scenic photo of France to ancient Egyptian alphabets. It has almost become a home-from-home for lots of regulars. It is busy lunchtime and evening, and you should check ahead if going in the evening - they will let you know when a table is likely to be free. Cafe Graham is so casual and relaxed that you can dine alone, in pairs, or a big group of friends, and still be yourself. It has friendly staff and cosy seats. I've been there alone and I didn't look weird or geeky or miserable at all - sitting alone in a corner having my meal while playing on my PSP (at least I think so). I've been there for dates and I didn't feel any bit less romantic - I actually felt more relaxed with my partner. I've been there in groups of three, four, five, and so on - we had a great party. By the way, the restaurant takes reservations for private parties too - it should be able to accommodate around 30 people or so. The food is mainly French basics, and well done - presentation is up to standard, meat is tender, fish is crisply pan fried, pasta is surprisingly healthy with home-made sauces, desserts are rich in flavour and most importantly, the price is very economical. I always go for a lobster bisque to start with, then tomato-sauce shrimp with salad greens, followed by a sole fillet with vegetables. And if I still have space to accomodate dessert, a chocolate mud cake. The serving size is always generous, and on top of that, you can choose to have vegetables, rice or spaghetti to go with your main meal. My other favourites include the baked escargots, duck breast glazed with honey, grilled lamb cutlets with herbs, beef stroganoff and braised lamb shank. Prices for a main meal range from HK$50-120. If you want to have good French and European cuisine with bargain prices, this would be the place to go. To top it all, the price of house wine starts at only HK$100 per bottle G/F 43-55 Wyndham St, Central, Hong Kong Tel 2869 8535 Café O The new branch of Cafe O is at 285 Queens Road Central. That's just at the bottom of Ladder Street so if you have had a gruelling afternoon shopping for antiques in Cat Street and environs it's a perfect place to take the weight off your feet and enjoy a long cool smoothie. I hadn't been antique shopping, I was in that neck of the woods for other reasons but I decided to make a detour and have a late lunch. Approaching from the Sheung Wan side it seems at first to be rather an unusual location but looking at it from the other side then it could be seen as leading the charge in Noho's relentless expansion towards Sheung Wan. The restaurant takes up the ground and first floor with simple but sleek decor There are numerous computer terminals and the premises are wi-fi enabled so you need never be a moment away from your e-mail or your favourite websites. Upstairs there is a balcony where you can sit outside and overlook Queens Road. Cafe O opens at seven in the morning but late risers will be pleased to note that breakfast is served all day. The idea of having breakfast for lunch did cross my mind. The Triple O, which includes three eggs, hash browns, mushrooms bacon and sausage for $78, and the Othello; Australian beef hamburger with crispy bacon and mozzarella on a home made bun for $98 were both tempting. The breakfast menu also included pancakes and organic muesli. But I was there for a late lunch and the longer I remained undecided the later it was getting. Looking at the items in the display counter I noticed something that, whilst it didn't really look like a Cornish pasty, it certainly made me think of them. This was called a Calzona ($42), a pizza that has been folded so that the crust is on the outside and the topping has become a filling. I ordered one. There was a vegetarian option but I went for the herbed chicken with vegetables. I also ordered some cheezy potatoes ($32), potato wedges with melted mozzarella and sprinkled with chilli and paprika. To wash it all down I ordered a Blue Energy. This is a blend of banana, orange and blueberry juice. While I waited I looked at the other pizza options on the menu. Cafe O makes pizza by the metre. A full metre will cost $178, half metre cost $98 and are great for sharing but it is also possible to buy an individual portion for $42. The basic topping are all quite simple; home made pesto, tomato and basil and fresh mushroom are just a few. Onto these you can add as many or as few topping as you heart desires. The calzona was quite tasty, it didn't fill me up as much as a conventional pizza would, which was helpful because it turned out to be larger than it had appeared in the counter. The cheezy potatoes were a tad dry and might have benefited from a little butter, though it's a small complaint and one that I'm sure could have been easily addressed had got up to ask. The blue energy was delicious. Made entirely from fresh ingredients and nothing else. The banana blended wonderfully with the orange and blueberry to give a taste that was still tangy but neither too sharp nor too sweet. So impressed was I with the juice I decided I couldn't leave without trying a smoothie as well. I plumped for the Brain Wave. This is a combination of pineapple, kiwi, mint and ginger mixed with a pineapple sorbet and was every bit as good as the juice. The juices and smoothies come in two sizes $29 and $36. There is also a range of teas, herbal teas and coffee available as well as a selection of wines and beers June 2005 Cafe Ola I spotted Cafe Ola a few months ago, but as it's hidden down a side lane in Central, promptly forgot about it until a friend suggested an early dinner after work. Wing Wo Street runs down the side of the Cosco buildings, between Queen's Road and Des Voeux Road - Cafe Ola is near the Des Voeux end. Inside, everything is very relaxed and homey - some of the owner's old album covers line the walls, and we passed a couple of happy minutes trying to remember whether we'd owned the same ones. There was a small TV going in the corner, but no worries - the sound was switched off! I thought this looked a promising venue for watching football, but didn't check out the cable situation. There's usually a couple of tables out in the lane (comfortingly clean), with businessmen having a couple of beers after work, and at these prices (all bottled lagers $20, Boddingtons $28), why not? House wine starts at $25 per glass for Agua Negra from Argentina, which of course I had to try - it was even drinkable. Bottles are available at prices up to $380 for top-of-the-range. Every day they have a choice of 4 dishes with the set dinner menu at a bargain price. On the evening we went, the set included a starter of grilled duck breast with salad leaves, a soup (ours was pumpkin, a little thin, but obviously home-made and creamy), dessert, and coffee/tea. I ordered the rack of lamb (medium rare) for my main ($118 for the set), which came with little roasted tomatoes, broccoli and potatoes. The meat itself was a little gristly, but it was cooked to perfection with 'rosemary scent & demi-glace' sauce. My friend had the chicken breast, which arrived with chestnut mash (yummy) and similar vegetables. We decided to share desserts. Choices included chocolate mousse, but we selected tiramisu, and lime sorbet, as we were feeling a little full by this time. The sorbet came with a little stick of chocolate, and was inexplicably creamy - tasty though. The tiramisu, however, was disappointingly solid, and lacking in flavour. Unfortunately, on the night we were there, the coffee machine was out of order, so we scuttled out after a relaxing hour. We had spent only $298 between two of us, and when the ever-cheery owner said come back soon, it actually sounded like he meant it! This place produces very reasonable food at bargain prices, and I certainly intend to make myself a regular. Cafe Siam I've known about Cafe Siam for years, I used to go past it at least once a day as I rode up the Central to mid-levels escalator. I have worked in three different offices that were all within a five minute walk of the restaurant. I even walked around for at least a week with a miniature take-away menu in my pocket. But it wasn't until the other day that I finally got myself through the doors and up to a table. Whenever I enter a Thai restaurant the cooking smells always trigger a Pavlovian instinct to order all my favourite Thai dishes and it takes a great force of will to look elsewhere on the menu. My favourite dishes, of course, are all classic dishes that can be found on all good Thai menus. That little pocket menu helped immensely because it meant that even before I arrived at the restaurant I already had a short list of not so common dishes I wanted to try. The starters I'd narrowed down to two; Koh Moo Yang, or char-grilled marinated pork served with a tamarind, toasted rice and shallot dip ($65) was very tempting but was pipped at the post by the Gai Manow, chicken and water chesnut roll ($68). These are cut into bite-sized pieces and served on a bed of crispy fried basil with a dab of mayonnaise and a sliver of lime. One of the great things about Thai cuisine is that it happily borrows from its neighbours and the flavours will change according to which border you are near. The larbs and the ever popular green papaya salad, som-tam, originate in Laos, the mild yellow curries come from the south. The next dish was Khao Soy ($65), a Burmese style chicken curry served with soft and crispy noodles. This was also a mild curry but not as sweet as the southern style curries. It is served with a hot and sour northern style chilli paste. The main course was completed with Deep Fried Garoupa in a very spicy chilli sauce ($158). The dessert menu is made up of tried and trusted favourites such as mango with sticky rice, banana fritters and fresh fruit. Cafe Siam make their own brand of herb tea and at $28 a pot is well worth a try. In fact it is so popular that they even sell it in packets to take home. 11 May 2004 Cafe TOO There is an art to doing buffet but I've never been able to master it properly. Some people seem to be able to keep eating and eating but I always wind up getting full ... or is it just my imagination? Maybe it is because good buffets always have more things than I can possibly try in one sitting. But I do have a tricks that I try to employ to help me get the most out of what is on offer so the other day I sauntered along to Cafe TOO at the Island Shangri-La to hone my skills. Buffets are very popular and, at $388, Cafe TOO may be one of the more expensive in town it was still packed even before seven. I was lucky, The waiter led me to a table right at the very back near the Indian kitchen. He was a little apologetic about it but it suited me down to the ground as I was able to watch the chefs. The mantra I always begin with is "Never put too much on the your plate". This is particularly difficult when confronted with such fresh looking sushi and sashimi. They do offer oysters but I've always wondered what the fuss was about. They did have some delicious chilled crab that worked well with the sashimi. I just love sushi and sashimi but in these situations I try to stick to sashimi because the rice fill you up too much. I had the tuna, clam and yellowtail. I could see myself going back for seconds so I augmented this with a little smoked salmon which I thought may provide an interesting segue into the cold cuts and salad. The next tactic is to eat slowly. This is all well and good when you go with a group of friends but if, like me, you also enjoy dining alone then it helps to have a good book or a newspaper. I'd already read the papers and I'd forgotten my book so that segue into the cold cuts came rather sooner than I anticipated. The choice of cold cuts was not a varied as the sashimi but I was still able to find some pepper beef and parma ham. To that plate I added a little goats cheese in olive oil and some of the spicy Thai papaya salad called som tam. This was an inspired move because the spiciness of the salad demanded that I rest a while before moving on to the next. There were a couple of chinese options, some soup noodles and what looked like a Chiu Chow kitchen but I must confess I didn't investigate. I got sidetracked by the rack of lamb with vegetables and roast potatoes. I was a little disappointed to notice that there wasn't any English mustard available but it was a fairly minor transgression. After another short pause I was ready for the Indian kitchen. I'd heard good things about this and I'd been enjoying watching the chef baking the nan. I timed my attack perfectly. Because of my privileged location I knew when the tandoori chicken was to be replenished and I was there waiting. To go with it I also selected some tandoori fish, onion bhaji some and nan bread. There was a quite bewildering range of desserts, all of them looked yummy but I decided to settle for a small slice tiramisu and rounded off with some brie and biscuits and coffee.   California Pizza Kitchen This is a family restaurant that has a slightly more interesting take on the concept of a pizza, I went along to the branch on the 13th floor of Times Square in Causeway Bay to try one. Living up to its role as a family restaurant there were two young super-heroes zapping threatening looking chairs and tables with imaginary kill-o-beam zap guns or whatever the weapon of choice is these days. Suffice to say that had I been a malevolent piece of furniture it would have been splinters for me. I picked my table with care.. The restaurant is bright and spacious the decor, simple but functional. The waiter was at the table in no time brandishing the menu. Pizza, of course, dominates the menu but it is by no means the only choice. There is also an interesting range of pastas and Focaccia sandwiches. It also offers a mouthwatering array of appetizers, soups and salads. I ordered California shrimp rolls ($48). These are similar to the cold spring rolls found in Laos, Vietnam and parts of Thailand. The white noodle, carrots and bean sprouts remain the same but these were stuffed with flame-grilled shrimps which added a deliciously smokey twist to them. They were served, chilled, with a dipping sauce sesame and ginger. There are no less than 25 different Pizzas on the menu. All the familiar favourites are there; the Hawaiian, the pepperoni and mushroom and the basic cheese and tomato sauce. These cater for the more traditional tastes but it was the intriguing selection on non-conventional toppings and sauces that had caught my eye. The Peking duck; roasted duck breast, shiitake mushrooms and crispy wontons with a ginger sauce. Then there was The Jamaican Jerk chicken with a spicy sweet Caribbean sauce and roasted red and yellow peppers. Roast potato and grilled chicken comes with a white wine and lemon garlic butter sauce. I wanted to try them all but in the end I settled on a Carne Asada ($78). This is grilled steak with fire roasted chillies, Monterey jack and mozzarella cheeses and a cilantro (coriander) pesto. It was served with a delicious tomatillo salsa. There is only one size of pizza but it is easily big enough for two people to share, especially if you order a starter as well.. The service is prompt and friendly. I noted with satisfaction that the furniture had been vanquished and the two gentlemen that had saved the day had been rewarded with hot fudge brownies and were about to be taken home to bed. Takeaway service is available and they will deliver to addresses within a kilometre of Times Square. December 2004 Cammino I'd been down in the Dickens Bar having a swift pint with on old friend who was on whirlwind business trip. I admit I'd been half expecting that we would get into one of those "just like the old days" marathon drinking sessions. But it was not to be. He managed to fit me in between his last meeting and his taxi to the airport. I watched him bundle his suitcase into the back of the taxi. It was good to see the old rogue but I was secretly grateful that I wasn't going to have one of those "just like the old days" Wednesday morning hangovers. But, since I was here I might as well take advantage of the situation. I turned about and headed back into the Excelsior Hotel and up to Cammino on the first floor. Cammino with it's wooden shuttered windows and terra cotta tiling, is a little corner of Tuscany. The atmosphere is informal and the staff friendly, attentive and indeed prompt. A glass of fruity Primitivo di Puglia ($80 for a large one) was produced before I'd even made up my mind on a starter. I'd narrowed the choices down to either the Antipasto Toscano which consisted of cured meats, goats cheese and marinated vegetables ($138) or the Forest Mushroom Ragout on a baked Portobello Mushroom ($108). The cured meats won the day and I was treated to a selection of salami and parma ham and cheese served on an impressively large glass plate with salad, artichokes, sun-dried tomato and a generous slice of chilled rock melon. The bread basket was also generous. Five different types served with roasted garlic, butter and balsamic vinegar and olive oil. For a main course I ordered the oven roasted rack of lamb with herb garlic crust ($248). The dish was handsomely presented with creamed potato and a balsamic sauce. The lamb was tender and juicy and was again, a generous