Eat Drink Hong Kong

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There are a few of these dual cuisine type restaurants around. This one mixes middle eastern with an Argentinean grill. It’s not such a stretch as it might sound as barbecued meat is used in middle eastern cuisine anyway.

The steaks are served simply with salad and fries. I’m sure the fries could be swapped for pitta bread if you preferred. Along side the steaks are options for lamb, chicken or fish.

But the main part of the menu is dedicated to middle eastern cuisine so that is where I decided to focus.

There are the familiar kebabs but there are also a range of middle eastern curry dishes available. I was intrigues by the Iraqi Lamb Quzi which, if you order in advance, can be made using a whole leg of lamb ($599). Though it is also available as a smaller serving.

I decided to start with The Grand Dip ($48) this is actually a combination platter featuring Hummus, Babaganoush and Couscous and is served with pitta bread. To go with it I ordered a fresh lime soda ($25).

I also ordered an Argentinean chorizo ($48) which, as I suspected, went perfectly with the dips.

After much consideration I finally opted for the Lamb Ribs Targine ($88). This is, I believe, a Moroccan style curry made with dried apricots. The ribs are all chopped up so all the little cubes of meat also contain a section of rib. This helps to bring out the flavour of the meat. It is served with saffron rice and a small salad.

For dessert I opted for the creme brulee over the chocolate mousse. These were the only two available. I must admit I was a little surprised that there were no middle eastern options.

G/F 37 Catchick Street
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong
Tel. 2986 5455

The name Busy Suzie pinched from the term Lazy Susan, the name for that revolving table top that we find in Chinese restaurants. The main dining area of Busy Suzie is also circular but the table doesn’t move.

Traditionally robatayaki, or Japanese barbecue, would be cooked in a large charcoal pit. The diners would sit in a circle around the pit and the chefs would pass the orders to customers on the oar of a fishing boat.

There is no charcoal pit but diners still sit in a circle where they can watch the chefs prepare their food and who will be deliver it to them on a wooden paddle. To add authenticity the wait staff shout the orders to the chefs and all staff, chefs included, bellow greetings whenever a customer enters.

The interior is sleek and circular with wooden floor and fixtures finished off with bamboo and round paper lanterns. There are private dining areas and small booths for those who prefer not to sit at the main table.

There were no major surprises on the menu. I have to confess, I eat so much supermarket sushi and sashimi that I tend to skip it in restaurants. The major benefit of that is that it does help keep the cost down. And since Busy Suzie is one of the more expensive places that, for me at least, is an important consideration.

The drinks list did offer Ozeno Yukidoke Brown ($90), a German style Dunkelweizen so I ordered a bottle of that to get proceedings underway. To go with it I ordered some dry piled sardine ($78). Both arrived promptly. The sardine was pressed into cracker like slivers and were very tasty indeed. A good appetite sharpener but an even better snack to go with a beer.

The beer had a spicy sweetness, think cinnamon, that went down rather too well. It wasn’t long before I was ordering my second. I also put in an order for a chicken and a pork skewer ($75 each) and some vegetable tempura ($128).

By this time quite a few people were arriving and there was a lot of shouting going on. The shouting itself wasn’t unpleasant, it was all good natured. But when added to the rather loud disco music that was playing it made having a conversation difficult.

The skewers were very good as was the tempura, which consisted of pumpkin, mushroom, lotus root and sweet potato and I added to that a Robatayaki rice ball with miso ($50).

I finished off with umeshu and lime jelly ($78), which mad a pleasant change. Both sesame and green tea ice cream were available but I always have one or the other so it was nice to find something a little different. Umeshu is a kind of liqueur made by steeping unripe green plums in Shochu and sugar. Used as a delicious sweet sauce it went went well with the tangy lime jelly.

Shop 209, 1881 Heritage
2A Canton Road
(entrance on Salisbury Road)
Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel. 2369 0077

We fancied a beer and a burger each so we decided to head inside. We can’t serve you beer I’m afraid said the good lady who greeted us. But do feel free to pop along to 7-11 and get your own.

It turned out that it was a license glitch and she was expecting all to be rectified within a matter of days. A shame, I was rather looking forward to an Egyptian Sakara Gold to go with a Lebanese burger ($48) My companion also had to forsake his Estrella which he would have paired with a Spanish burger ($48).

The trip down to the convenience store for a couple of cans didn’t have much appeal. Instead we made do with soft drinks, I an orange juice and he a cola. To go with the drinks and burgers we also ordered some buffalo chicken wings ($48) and some potato wedges ($18).

The wedges and wings arrived first by a very narrow margin. The wings are actually boneless and cut into bite sized pieces. The are served in a wonderfully tangy and spicy sauce. Along side them are celery strips and a blue cheese dip.

The two burgers arrived almost at the at the same time. They are delivered with their hats off so you can admire the toppings. The Spanish had chunks of chorizo sausage, a slice of cheddar cheese and a huge daub of mayonnaise. A large part of the mayo defected to the plate after the first bite. My friend was unconcerned. Indeed he was of the opinion that there was too much of the stuff anyway.

The Lebanese burger was topped with halloumi cheese and za’atar. Za’atar is a middle eastern herb or blend of herbs which was sprinkled on the cheese. In place of the mayo a Lebanese burger has hummus. Not nearly as much and in my view altogether much better.

The burgers are a decent size though not as big as some other places. There are variations on the menu that include two patties and I suspect if you asked you could have an extra patty added into almost any burger on the menu.

G/F Carfield Commercial Building
77 Wyndham Street
Central
Tel. 2114 0662

A lot of new restaurants have been springing up in Kennedy Town recently. New apartment buildings and the MTR extension are attracting new businesses to the area. But the Clay Oven is no new kid on the block, it’s been there for twenty years according to the chef.

I remember eating there maybe about ten years ago so I decided it was time to go back. I don’t really remember much about that first visit, the decor was different but that is hardly surprising. It still has the unmistakable feel of an Indian restaurant.

I tucked myself into a table by the window and was immediately presented with a popadum and some vegetable pakora. This was a bonus, I’d been thinking of ordering pakora as a starter anyway but but since I already had a sample I decided to go for the samosas ($36) instead. I considered a bottle of Kingfisher beer to go with it but in the end I went for a mango lassi ($24).

Most of the menu is familiar, all the classic dishes that you’d expect are there. One of the items that caught my attention was the tandoori fish ($78). This was a whole fish served on a sizzling plate. The chef wasn’t sure of the English name for it. I thought sardine, there was definitely that kind of flavour to it but I suspect I’m wrong, it was too big for a sardine. Whatever the fish it was really quite delicious, and came with very few bones. Well worth a trip to Kennedy Town in its own right.

To go with it I ordered a plain nan ($14) and yellow dal ($58). Usually I would order two nan but I was warned that here they are a lot larger than normal so I settled for one. Actually I think one and a half would have been ideal for me in order to mop up the last of the delicious yellow dal.

Although some of the dishes are designed to be spicy and wouldn’t be right if they were not. There are plenty of dishes on the menu that can be prepared how you prefer. The menu offers three levels, extreme, intermediate and gentle.

There are only two desserts on the menu, ras malai and the ever popular gulab jamun ($18). I opted for the latter

G/F 27-31 Catchick Street
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong
Tel 2872 6900

This funky restaurant and lounge is the latest Thai establishment to appear on Wyndham street. It opened back in February so I figured it was time to have a look.

It covers although you can eat and drink on either, the upstairs is more lounge like with low comfy chairs whilst the ground floor has the bar. There are regular tables and trendy high tables. The high tables are great if you are just stopping by for drinks and snacks but I wouldn’t want to deal with a grilled sea bass with chilli and Thai basil ($140) at one.

And grilled sea bass was what I had my eye on so I sat at one of the regular tables. Fortunately I had a choice. It was fairly quiet when I was there but the manageress assured me that at peak times it can get really busy and it is advisable to book.

Often in Thai restaurants the dishes will arrive all together or just when they are ready. Here they follow the western pattern of starter followed by main. The menu itself holds no surprises, every dish is familiar and almost every dish is probably someone’s favourite whether it be a tom yam soup, a curry or a salad.

I decided to start with deep fried coconut prawns with cucumber and peanut sauce ($78). The coconut in the batter was actually quite subtle but the peanut sauce wasn’t peanut sauce at all. It was actually a dip known as ajan. This is made from white rice vinegar with finely chopped cucumber, shallots and chilli. It was actually very nice and probably better than the peanut sauce would have been so I said nothing.

The sea bass was impressive. Cooked in a banana leaf it was succulent and tender with the aromatic Thai basil adding a pleasing accent. If you prefer you can ask for non-spicy variation.

To finish I ordered the familiar Tapioca pudding ($45). These are small cakes of tapioca wrapped in a piece of banana leaf and topped with coconut cream and a kernel of sweet corn. Rich and filling.

The dishes were all very well done and while the prices may be a little above average for a Thai restaurant they are probably below average for that part of Wyndham Street. Either way booking is recommended.

57 Wyndham Street
Central
Tel 2840 0041

I was chastised the other day for not visiting Korean restaurants very often. I do like Korean food. I like it very much but to get the best out of a Korean restaurant you need to have a group of people. I put the matter to another friend and she said, “well we’ll go anyway and just pretend there are lots of us.”

Korea Garden has been at this address for a good many years. How many I couldn’t say but I’m pretty sure I first ate here around 20 years ago. The entrance is a single doorway and a flight of stairs to the restaurant which is on the 1st floor. If you go for lunch it is advisable to book or go early.

We got there at 12.30, any later it would have been full. I was eager for some classic Korean barbecue and went for spicy marinated pork ($100). This, of course, comes with its own range of kimchi and assorted vegetables.

My comapanion was keen to identify a stew that she had tried before and and had enjoyed very much. She knew it had included tofu but it had been part of a much larger meal before and now she couldn’t be certain what else had been in it. In the end she settled on Pollack stew with tofu and vegetables ($100).

To complement them we also ordered Kimchi fried rice in a stone pot ($100) and a spring onion pancake ($90).

As is often the case at luchtimes the dishes all arrived in quick succession. The barbecue was lit and the first pieces of pork were beginning to sizzle while the waiter was serving the kimchi fried rice. Both the rice and the pollack stew were huge and would probably have been enough for four people.

The rice was excellent and I mad short work of mine. My companion was less enthusiastic about the stew, it wasn’t right one after all. I thought it was quite pleasant. It also had mushrooms, prawns and mussells in it. I didn’t remember seeing prawns or mussells on the menu. This didn’t worry me unduly but I do know people who are allergic to shellfish and would probably like to know about such things in advance.

The spring onion pancake and the spicy pork both live up to expectations and we settled in for a long, leisurely lunch

Balancing convivial conversation with cooking and still managing to eat some of what is already there can be quite a challenge. Consequently some of the meat got a little burnt towards the end and we had to call for help to find the off switch.

1/F Blissful Building
247 Des Voeux Road
Sheung Wan
Tel 2542 2339

This is a little local place on Wellington Street. I’m not sure how long it’s been there but I think it’s quite new. One thing that strikes me about it is that there always seems to be a queue outside so the other day a colleague and I decided to have a late lunch and went along in the middle of the afternoon.

Even at three o’clock there were still plenty of customers. There’s has a slight retro feel to the decor. I can’t quite give it a period, but it’s pleasant enough.

It’s an interesting menu. It’s also bilingual so non-native speakers can order with confidence. We opened our account with a plate of classic Char Siu ($60). I’d decided against having any rice but my colleague felt that it would be improper to eat char siu without it.

And it was good char siu, we’d demolished the whole plate by the time the next dish arrived. This was braised Tianjin cabbage with ham ($50). It was piping hot too, we had to wait for it to cool a little.

Moments later the Szechuan chicken arrived ($58). This, of course, was quite spicy. Not as hot as it could have been, I felt, by quite a margin. It got it’s heat from chillies rather than the fagara pepper. My companion disagreed. He said it was plenty hot enough. In fact he as going to let me have the lions share of it.

It was a shrewd move, he was saving himself for the Baked shrimp and Garoupa with cheese and e-fu noodles ($98). It’s a interesting dish, I have had something similar in a Vietnamese restaurant a few months ago. That was made with rice and lacked the shrimps but as far as I know this is the only Asian dish I can remember that features cheese.

It’s an enjoyable dish although the cheese tends to make the noodles rather sticky and unmanageable.

There were desserts on the menu but we were both too full. These are quite large portions that are meant to be shared. We had easily eaten our way through enough food for four.

112-114 Wellington Street
Central
Tel 2544 3466

The word Aropa comes from the people of Anuta, a remote island in the Solomons. It loosely translates as compassion and is the islanders basic philosophy of life. It is demonstrated by the giving and sharing of material goods such as food.

None of the items on the menu at Aropa, the restaurant, come from the Solomon Islands though. It is a essentially a Mediterranean menu. But they have, according to a sign at the entrance, taken the ideal of aropa to heart.

It’s a young, modern restaurant in the K11 mall in Tsim Sha Tsui. I would imagine it’s peak times are the same as peak shopping times. I went at about 7.00pm in the middle of the week and was pleased to see that there were plenty of tables still available.

The menu is aimed at a younger, hip clientele mostly Italian but with reminders that France and Spain also share portions of the Mediterranean coast. There is a good selection of pastas and risottos. They are probably very good but they fill me up too much and put me off dessert.

Instead I decided to start with Parma ham with mixed fruit ($88). It looked lovely, an appetising thicket of fresh lettuce and arugula mixed with shavings of honeydew and cantaloupe melon and fresh figs. But the star of the show, the parma ham itself, was disappointingly under represented.

The main course was much better. Australia lamb loin rolled in filo pastry served with mustard and rosemary ($168). It also came with roast potatoes and aubergine. I was very pleased with the lamb which was lean and tender. An option of a mint jelly or sauce would have been nice though I was happy to live without it.

There were a few of the usual suspects on the dessert menu, chocolate flan and apple pie. Chestnut creme brullee was intriguing but Honey bread pudding with bitter chocolate sauce ($55) won the day.

Aropa Mediterranean Restaurant
Shop 117-118 Level 1 K11
18 Hanoi Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel 3188 4360

Li Yuen Street is not a place I would normally go voluntarily. It is one of those little lanes between Queens Road and Des Voeux Road in Central that seems to be stuffed from end to end with little haberdashery type markets and shops. At least I think it’s haberdashery, I never get close enough to get a proper look.

Fortunately by 7.30 when I had discovered this most of the shops and markets had all closed for the day. I’d had no idea there were restaurants down there of course, I’d received a tip-off about Thai Thai Grill and had gone to investigate.

It looks quite a small place at when you first exit the lift but there is quite a lot of space around the back. The tables are large and solid with elegant Thai style place settings and wonderfully comfortable seating.

The walls are decorated with modern art paintings which, if one takes your fancy, can be purchased.

The menu is modern Thai and while there are plenty of familiar sounding dishes on the menu the photos suggest a more European style presentation. It all looked quite tempting. I Ordered a Singha beer and settled in for a long decision making process.

There is a wide range of snacks/starters to choose from and it would probably be possible to build a satisfying meal from these alone. I decided to start with rice paper spring rolls ($55), an idea borrowed from Vietnamese cuisine. These were stuffed with soft-shelled crab and crisp, fresh vegetables. There are served with the classic sweet, spicy dip.

Another snack I just had to have was Sun-dried beef served with a very spicy chilli sauce ($62). This is a simple dish that I know from the rural north-east of Thailand and Laos. The dried meat is fried with pepper, fish sauce and plum and sprinkled with white sesame seeds. The chilli sauce is used for dipping but if you don’t care for it they still taste good without.

The menu had offered Yellowtail Snapper with Mango and Lime Salad ($158) but the markets hadn’t been able to provide that morning so the chef offered to make the same dish using grey mullet. So I agreed to that.

I was glad that I did. The green mango which had been marinated in the lime brought a delicious tang to complement the fish. This dish is one of the chefs specialities and he has every right to be proud of it. I’ve made a mental note to go back when they have the yellowtail so I can compare.

There are only four desserts on the menu, three of them were the usual suspects; mango with sticky rice, layer cake etc. Pumpkin custard ($45) was unfamiliar so I decided to try that. This consisted of sections of hollowed pumpkin filled with a coconut flavoured custard. There was no extra sugar added so if you have a really sweet tooth this might disappoint. I found it a very pleasant way to round off the meal.

Thai Thai Grill also offer delivery and outside catering.

2/F 9 Li Yuen Street East
Central
Tel 2167 8778

This is a convenient little Italian coffee shop on Wellington Street. I’ve had pleasant sandwiches there once or twice at lunchtimes so I decided to give their set dinner a try.

The menu is not huge. There are maybe half a dozen starters to choose from and about three main courses. Depending on how hungry you are you can choose from 2-course at $298, 3-course at $328 and the 4-course at $368. Each includes a glass of house wine and coffee.

The reason there are so many starter options is that some of them are also on the a la carte snack menu. I decided to start with Duck breast carpaccio with mixed mushrooms and shaved parmesan cheese.

It was delivered with a small jungle of arugula on top. It was pleasant enough but I couldn’t help wondering if a little sun-dried tomato might have added an agreeable tanginess to the proceedings.

In the four course version the next course is a half portion of the daily pasta or risotto. Pasta I thought. On this particular day it was linguine vongole (linguine with clams). At first I was a little disappointed that there seemed to be so few clams even for a half portion but they were all hidden under the linguine.

The main course was a choice between rack of lamb and salmon fillet. I opted for the salmon which was presented with potatoes and salad.

There were six or seven types of cake or dessert to choose from. I had the Baileys chocolate mousse and finished with expresso long from the menu.

They also have a branch in Sheung Wan

UG, The Loop
33 Wellington Street
Central
Tel 2523 2821

G/F Skyline Commercial Centre
71-77 Wing Lok Street
Tel 2850 6332

Al Pasha is on level 4 of ‘Gourmet Tower’ in the new K11 mall in Tsim Sha Tsui. When you stepping out of the lift you find yourself in a dimly lit lobby looking at two huge red clay urns. It’s dimly lit and there is a hint of frankincense. A smartly dressed young man steps forward and ask me if I have a reservation. I tell him I don’t and ask if it matters. “Just for one only?” He enquires “I’m sure we can find you a table.” He leads me off through the restaurant.

It’s a large place but it’s already quite crowded. I’m led to an outside area which is lit almost entirely those charming Turkish lanterns. He ushers me to a table, presents me with a menu and leaves me to read up on what, exactly, “Silk Road Cuisine” is.

It’s a large menu which, as one might expect, covers dishes from both the middle east and central China. From barbecued meats and tandoori to stir fried dishes. If you are a large enough group you can order a whole lamb for $1,380 but you do need to order a day in advance.

I couldn’t have the whole lamb but quick fried camel saddle with white asparagus ($85) I could and since I’d never tried camel before I decided I must. But I wanted something for starter. Chicken cigar rolled in filo pastry with mint was a strong contender but in the end I plumped for the cold shredded chicken salad with pear and bell pepper in chilli oil ($78).

An excellent choice it was too. Fresh and fruity and a generous serving to boot. I would question the chilli oil though. This didn’t set the roof of my mouth on fire the way I would normally expect chilli to. Instead it made my tongue and lips tingle in the way that the fagara pepper does in those wonderful Sichuan dishes.

The camel itself wasn’t all that spectacular, though I think that is the camels fault rather than the chef’s. The meat was a little on the chewy side for my tastes. Still. I had no problem with eating it and the rest if the stir fry dish was just fine.

To go with it I had ordered braised wild mushrooms with bean-curd, chilli and garlic ($78) and a nan for mopping up. There appeared to be at least three types of mushroom in a hot pot kind of dish. Both this and the camel were spicy dishes but there are plenty of non-spicy dishes to choose from. There are also plenty of vegetarian choices.

While I was waiting for dessert the back ground music, which had been vaguely middle eastern pop with a disco beat, stopped and was replaced by loud drumming. Inside there was a belly dancer and another girl with a tray of candles balanced on her head.

It was good fun, everyone was up taking photos and having a good time but I was happy to get back to the final instalment of my dinner which was to be almond and chestnut puree pancake ($55). The puree was piping hot and I had to let it cool for a few moments but it was otherwise a pleasing end to a very satisfying and entertaining meal.

Shop 401, Level 4, K11
18 Hanoi Road
Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel 3122 4444

This is a funky and informal Italian restaurant in the new iSquare. Pasta, Pizza and Vino it says across the top of the door. I skipped both the pasta and pizza but I did treat myself to a glass of vino. A Riesling, in fact, which was delivered along with a large crusty bread roll and some olive oil.

There is quite an impressive list of wines on offer. It is also interesting to note that the wines which are available by the glass can also be ordered by the half glass for those who just like a taste.

The restaurant attracts a young crowd and, being in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, a lot of them. I got in before the crowd and snagged a table near the front. This meant I couldn’t see the larger part of the restaurant but I could watch busy shoppers passing by. The interior wall to my left was decorated with an assortment of pots, enamelled iron pans, and what looked like takeaway pizza boxes. It was a pleasing effect.

There are two set meal options. Both of them are four courses and cost either $298 or $348. I’d decided to bypass those and order from the a la carte. The first dish up was cantaloupe melon with parma ham ($115).

The ingredients are simple enough but this was served in a way that I’ve always thought it should be served, large chunks of ripe melon draped with a generous portion of ham all on a wooden board. Easily enough for two people sharing.

It was just as the waitress delivered this dish that I spotted a dish called Spada. This is swordfish prosciutto garnished with tiny shavings of citrus fruit and served with avocado and lime salsa ($128). I just had to try one.

For my main course I ordered what the menu called Orata ($248). This is one of the most popular fish in Italy and was held sacred by the Greek goddess Aphrodite. It’s English name is gilthead sea bream and while it may sound less poetic it tastes every bit as wonderful. The flesh is firm and fragrant with a slightly buttery taste. It comes stuffed with rosemary and garlic, oven baked with olives and capers and served with potatoes, tomatoes and a forest of crisp fresh salad.

For dessert I opted for the Tortas Di Mele ($68). It sounded good on the menu; Apple tart made with Granny Smith apples and served with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. Whilst it was perfectly edible it just seemed a little ordinary after the previous dishes.

Shop 307 iSquare
63 Nathan Road
Tel 2328 5202

I’ve long been a fan of Indian cuisine but I don’t often come across restaurants that style themselves as ’boutique Indian dining’. They do exist of course, sometimes they call themselves ‘modern Indian cuisine’.

The better ones usually have some interesting dishes on the menu. Lesser known or interesting reinterpretations of familiar ones. I had high hopes for Guru.

It’s a pleasant place just down the hill a few paces from the junction of Staunton and Elgin Streets. There are a couple of tables outside but this time I thought it might be more comfortable inside.

Just above the entrance on the inside there is a large light fitting and facing this is a colourful, modern painting of a traditional Indian scene. I took the table just inside with a good view of the painting.

I ordered a pint of draught Asahi ($55) and buried my nose in the menu. Of course there are some old favourites there. It just wouldn’t be right without samosas, rogan josh or tandoori chicken. But there plenty there to keep me undecided for quite a while. I was also pleased to note that they only use olive oil in their dishes and preparations.

For starters I took the easy way out and ordered the Guru sample platter ($98). You could think about sharing one of these as there are two of each item. The platter includes: Guru Tikki which were delicious tawa grilled potato and spinach cakes and samosas. Both of these could be dipped in the little bowl of tamarind sauce. Then there were muscles stir fried in tomato and herbs and the blue mango chat.

The mango was my favourite of all of them and I saved it until last just to savour it all the more. It featured tangy cubes of mango with whole wheat crisps in sweetened yoghurt with mint and tamarind chutney.

To follow I had ordered Mangaloria Fish Pot ($118). This is a very smooth and creamy curry rather like a korma. But unlike a korma this had a little more punch. I would class this as medium spicy so long as you don’t bite the chilli that decorates the top. It is served in a deep pot with succulent cubes of tender but flavourful fish swimming just beneath the surface.

To go with it I had Kadai Paneer ($68) which is sautéed chunks of cottage cheese with bell peppers, chilli and tomatoes. These were both mopped up with two plain nan.

I finished off with a Guru’s banana pancake a simple enough dessert of sliced banana wrapped in a pancake and drizzled with chocolate sauce and dusted with icing sugar.

G/F 13 Elgin Street
SoHo
Tel. 2547 9998

This place was doing brisk business even on a cold and damp Wednesday evening. No doubt the lure a hot and hearty bowl of beef pho was attracting customers. I was certainly what I was thinking of when I rolled up the escalator, but after I had got settled at a table and the menu in my hand I began to have other thoughts.

It’s a pleasant place. The decor is in a French colonial style with pale greens an white. It is elegant but not over done. The menu also boasts hints of the country’s colonial as well as offering the occasional not to its Southeast Asian neighbours.

I sent the waitress off with an order for a plate of Ban Mi Chien Tom, or prawn toast ($48) and a bottle of 39 Saigon Porter ($30) and took my time reading the rest of the menu.

All the familiar dishes are represented, bowls of pho, spring rolls both hot and cold and stuffed chicken wings. But there were also a number of regional dishes that are less frequently seen and I was keen to try a couple of these. So as the waitress delivered the prawn toast is despatched her a second time. This time for an order of Ban Hoi Ga Nuong, vermicelli cake with grilled chicken ($48) and Cha Ca Hanoi, Fried fish with dill ($128).

While I waited for those to be prepared I tucked into the shrimp toast. This is basically ground shrimp mixed with garlic, spread onto slices of baguette and, usually, fried - but I think this version may have been grilled. These are then dipped into a puddle of nuoc cham dipping sauce.

The other two dishes were delivered together. The vermicelli cakes are made from layers of the fine noodle pressed flat and drained. Along with the chicken they are served with fresh mint an a pile of lettuce leaves. The abundance of lettuce usually indicates that you are to wrap the other items inside a leaf and make little parcels of food so this is what I did. No-one came to tell me I was doing it all wrong so I suspect I was on the right track. Though I clearly need more practice at wrapping things in lettuce.

The fish, as the name would suggest, is a popular dish in Hanoi. It consists of tender cubes of fish rolled in bread crumbs and fried with dill and onions. It really would have gone well with a bowl of rice but since I already had quite a lot of food I decided to skip rice. Never-the-less it won my heart and I shall be heading back for another helping very soon.

I finished off with a white chocolate Creme Brulee ($38) and, feeling suitably fortified, headed back into the cold night air.

I would have spotted this place if it wasn’t for the blaze of Chinese New Year decorations outside. At least I think they were New Year decorations, I must confess I didn’t look at them that closely. It’s at the top of a short hill just off of Star Street and curiosity got the better of me so up I trundled.

Once there I decided it would have been a wasteful exercise if I didn’t stop and have something to eat so I went inside.

It’s quite a spacious restaurant with tables that are reasonably well spaced out. The decor, at first glance, looks quite simple but what seems like a random collection of cupboards, shelves and welsh dressers do a very good job of invoking the atmosphere of and old small town hotel.

There were a few pictures scattered around the walls but what really caught my attention was a large framed photograph of a really impressive pig. I immediately thought of Empress of Blandings from the PG Wodehouse novels. From a distance the animal looked like a huge potato with four small legs and a snout.

The background music was a French diva who I didn’t recognise but it was pleasant enough. The menu is also in French though there are English translations alongside. I decided to start with the Norwegian smoked fish platter ($180).

While I waited I tucked into a deliciously fresh baguette which had been delivered with a small clay pot of pate.

The fish was duly delivered an featured slices of eel, herring and salmon arranged around a little thicket of arugula and served with a slice of lemon. I do enjoy smoked fish but it is not all that common in this part of the world. I made mental note to return again soon.

For main course I had ordered the roast leg of lamb ($220). This was served in a very simple, home-cooking style. The lamb was tender an succulent and came with creamed potato.

I don’t drink a lot of wine but I do enjoy a glass with a meal. But I have to say the red from Haut-Brisson ($80), which was the only one available by the glass was very pleasant indeed. Smooth and mellow, a touch of spice with a hint of blackcurrants.

To finish off I ordered the mango cake ($60) which came in it’s own sea of chilled mango puree.

As I left I noticed that there was also an Olala deli on Star Street. Another good reason to come back soon.

G/F 1 Electric Street
Wanchai
Tel 2294 O450

This is an attractive little restaurant, one of the newer ones in Elgin Street. Cherry blossoms hang over the bar bringing a splash of colour to a more traditional style decor. Opposite the bar there is a line of small tables. There are more at the back, and there is seating for large groups upstairs, but there is only one of me and I like to watch the chefs at work so I take a small table.

I could sit at the bar for an even closer look but I like the table, it gives me a view of the whole restaurant which, since it is still early, is not very busy yet.

The word Taku means home and whilst it might be a bit of a stretch for me to call the alleyways of old Kyoto ‘home’, I was pleasantly surprised to find a waitress who used to work in a restaurant I frequented previously. After catching up on some small talk she lead me through the menu.

The tofu is made fresh every morning and I could have a choice of three types of preparation. Chilled, steamed or fried. I opted for chilled with diced maguro ($60). I also ordered a basket of Edamame, or steamed soy beans ($35) and a bottle of Yebisu beer ($42).

They arrived at almost the same time. The tofu was in a very light soy sauce, with the tuna on top and topped off with finely grated radish. Simple but very flavourful. The tofu firm and smooth.

To follow this I had ordered a mixed yakitori platter ($138). This includes Angus beef, chicken and asparagus wrapped in pork. There are two skewers of each making them good to share.

After a respectable pause and a replenishment of beer came the mixed vegetable and prawn tempura ($130). Like the other dishes it is a generous serving and there is plenty to share. To follow it I had ordered cold green tea soba noodles ($58). These are served with a quail egg, some shredded seaweed and some radish and spring onion. These are to be mixed into the soup to taste.

Japanese cuisine is not famous for it’s wide range of desserts but as long as they have black sesame ice cream ($28) I’ll be more than happy.

For such a large Japanese meal I felt the bill was very reasonable indeed. I said good-bye and promised to return again soon. To ensure I made good on my promise the waitress furnished with two generous coupons to be redeemed upon my next visit. It ill be soon

Taku
35 Elgin Street
SoHo
Tel. 2545 9966

Back in the days when the old Kai Tak airport was operational that end of Kowloon City had been famous for a number of exceptionally good Thai restaurants. I got into the habit of always planning evening flights and then getting to the airport in plenty of time to have a good dinner before catching the plane. Since the airport moved I hadn’t been back there to what had become of the area so the other Saturday afternoon I set out to remedy the situation.

To my delight I discovered that, if anything, there are even more Thai restaurants in the area. Indeed there is a thriving Thai community. I also spotted kitchens specialising in Cambodian and Issan/Lao. I even a couple of Islamic restaurants which intrigued me a lot.

Bu I had come to reacquaint myself with the Thai food and so stopped into a place called Lemon Basil. It was still very early and there were only two other guests. The restaurant was simple but attractive. Orange and beige walls dotted with pictures of Thai kings old and new interspersed with small paintings of chillies and other familiar ingredients.

There is a menu which contains all the familiar items plus there is the paper place mat which add a range of snacks as well as drinks and desserts. I ordered myself a red chicken curry ($58) and some broccoli with mushrooms ($48). I was going to leave it at that but then I noticed chicken wings stuffed with shrimp meat ($60).

With that lot I decided rice wouldn’t be needed but I did order myself a mango slush ($30).

The curry was the first dish to show up. These curries are pretty much a standard item in all Thai restaurants. But both red and yellow curries carry the risk of becoming a little too sweet, a bit too coconutty. This one, I’m happy to say, got the balance between sweetness and spiciness just right. I relented an ordered some rice so I could mop up the last of the sauce.

The vegetables had arrived shortly after the curry. These were crisp and fresh but otherwise pretty straight forward.

The chicken was the last to arrive because it takes the longest to prepare. Funnily enough it would have made an excellent starter - and more sensibly for two people. The wings were deep fried in bread crumbs and served with the classic Thai sweet chilli dipping sauce.

I finished off with pandan flavoured layer dumplings ($28). Another dish that would more sensibly be shared between two people.

Kowloon City is well off the beaten track these days but if you are a fan of Thai cuisine it’s well worth the effort.

Lemon Basil
16 Nam Kok Road
Kowloon City

This is a funky little hideaway in Sheung Wan where the building gets so narrow you’d think that there couldn’t be room for anything in side. Luckily There is just enough room for a kitchen and a about four tables.

One side is little more than an alcove. One of the tables has been tailored into the curve of the wall. Above it there is a gallery of old black and white prints of film stars from the forties and fifties.

The menu reflects the flavours of the southern Italian countryside from Rome to Sicily. According to the menu the recipes have been passed down through the generations using the simplest of cooking methods. They use fresh Mediterranean ingredients with fewer dairy products.

I started with crisp and flavourful Insalata di Spinaci ($52). This, quite simply, is baby spinach with pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes and parmesan cheese with a balsamic dressing.

I’d been slightly disappointed that bread needed to be ordered separately. But since quality Italian restaurants for the budget-conscious are something of a rarity anyway. So I decided to forgive them.

In the end I was glad not to have had bread because my second dish of the evening, Melanzane all Parmigiana ($48) was really quite filling. This consisted of layers of eggplant and mozzarella cheese baked in a rich tomato sauce.

The pasta I had ordered, Penne Ciociara ($80), is from the Lazio region just to the south of Rome. It’s a marvellously sharp and tangy dish mad with olives, capers, anchovies and pine nuts with just a few raisins as a counterpoint. I’m not sure if it is a dish that rarely appears on menus or if I’ve simply overlooked it in the past. But it is certainly one that I will be remembering in the future.

I finished off with a slice of cheesecake and a coffee.

Cafe Roma are happy to prepare food for take-away and also serve breakfast, afternoon tea and sandwiches.

G/F Jervois House
1 Jervois Street
Sheung Wan
Tel 2517 8484

I’ve been mulling this one over for a while. There were, in fact, two restaurants here in the past, an Italian and an Indian. It seems they have merged and become one and the menu now offers choices from both. I was curious to see if I could mix them. I had my doubts but I was willing to give it a try.

It’s a spacious restaurant with modern but simple decor. It was early evening when I was there so it was not too busy. I took a table in the corner away from the few people that were there. For some this might have seemed a little lonely but I was quite happy with it.

After mulling the menu for quite some time I decided that an equal balance would be out of the question but what might work would be to go for something that was essentially Italian but then to spice it up with an Indian dish.

That also settled the question of beer or wine and a glass of Pinot Grigiot was ordered. For me beer is the perfect accompaniment for Indian food but even the bread basket, which came with a delicious dip made with sun-dried tomato and olive oil demanded wine.

The first dish to arrive was an Italian starter, Vitello Rosa Su Salsa a la Tonno ($138). This is very thinly sliced veal on a creamed tuna and topped with capers and anchovy. It was delicious and would be a perfect start to any Italian meal.

Following it this time, however, was Fettucine a la Bolognese ($133) and Peri Peri Prawns ($78). I’d gone for the bolognese partly because it is the evergreen Italian choice and wasn’t going to give me any surprises. But also because my son had been back from his first term at university and was looking for ideas for things he could cook on a student budget. I’d shown him my student version of bolognese and I was keen to reacquaint myself with the genuine article.

The prawns are grilled and served on skewers with a mild curry sauce. I’d always believed peri peri to be African in origin but the spices used here were definitely Indian and there was Indian bread to go with it but after the pasta I really didn’t need much more.

Both the fettucine and the prawns were excellent and I enjoyed the meal greatly. That said I’m not sure I would choose to mix them up this way again. Where this idea does score is when you are organising dinner with a large group of friends. Having two different cuisines available helps to accommodate more tastes. There are plenty of vegetarian choices as well.

I finished off with Pistachio Cake and dark Cocoa Sauce ($58). The Indian options included the ever popular Gulab Jamun which I love but I decided they would be just a bit too rich this time.

Duetto
2/F, Sun Hung Kai Centre
30 Harbour Road
Wanchai
Tel. 2598 1222

That dish is very spicy sir,” informed the waitress. I told her that was just fine and that I liked spicy food. She nodded and was gone. We were referring to the Spicy Black Chicken with Red Peppers ($168) that I had just ordered. To go along with it I had ordered Five Tastes Shrimp ($98), a plate of pak choi with garlic and a bottle of Yan Jing Beer

Yi Jiang Nan is one of those restaurants that has been there for sometime but I always manage to bypass when I am in the area. It has a traditional style interior with murals along the wall. It doesn”t boast a huge menu it is well thought out. Although it is in both Chinese and English I did feel the descriptions needed just a tad more detail. The cuisine not specific to any particular are in China with all main regions being represented.

Some dishes gave away their origins by having Beijing style or other place names as a suffix or prefix but the majority don’t. Five tastes shrimp didn’t, it turned out to be Sichuan. Had I know this I might have thought twice about ordering it alongside the chicken dish.

But the shrimp did turn out to be a very pleasing choice indeed. Its a cold dish which bears a striking resemblance to a Thai style salad with coriander is very much in evidence. The five tastes? Well I got spicy, sweet salty and sour. The fifth one must be a secret.

The Chicken, when it arrived, was quite spectacular. The chicken pieces themselves were buried under a mound of dried red chillies which almost covered a rather large plate. But although they looked intimidating they can easily be swept aside. The fagara pepper, on the other hand is ground, and sprinkled in and it is this that gives the dish most of its heat. Once your lips and tongue are tingling from the fagara you can enjoy the flavour of the chillies without noticing the heat.

For connoisseurs of spicy food a crisp dry beer is the perfect accompaniment but this is no good for people that want more control over the the level of hotness. If you want to try it but are worried about the pain keep a bowl of plain white rice to one side. This will absorb the oils that carry the heat.

The staff were friendly and helpful when they could be but they were not able to tell me what else the chicken was seasoned with. “Chinese herbs and spices,” I was told.

I finished off with Chinese style donuts with banana ($48). These were light, fluffy dumplings stuffed with banana and red bean paste and rolled in sugar.

33-35 Staunton Street

Soho,
Tel 2136 0886

Shop 36-38 G/F City Garden Shopping Centre
North Point
Hong Kong
Tel 2508 0862

1/F, Foremost Building
21 Jordan Road
Kowloon
Tel 2721 0099

23 Tak Ku Ling Road
Kowloon City
Kowloon
Tel 2716 6269

5/F The Mira HK
118 Nathan Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2315 5999

3/F Stanley 11
11 Stanley Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 7223

U G/F Central Park Hotel
263 Hollywood Road
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2851 2820

W Place, 52 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 6768 5252

5/F The Mira HK
118 Nathan Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2368 1111

36 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 6151 0820

43-45 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2537 8010

4/F Hyatt Regency
18 Chak Cheung Street
Shatin
Tel 3723 1961

G1004-B Tien Sing Mansion
Taikoo Shing
Hong Kong
Tel 2967 9219

35 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2545 9966

5/F QRE Plaza
202 Queen’s Road East
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2834 8328

G/F 35 Belcher’s Street
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong
Tel 2819 5568

‘Private address’ in Star Street - call for details
Tel 2521 8121

8/F 11 Stanley Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3622 1817

110-114 Tun Lo Wan Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2398 8000

G/F 135 Sunning Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 3333

1881 Heritage
2A Canton Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3988 0104

Hullett House
2A Canton Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3988 0220

8 Staunton Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2536 9068

11/F Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 3444

66 Peel Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2899 2001

35-37 Gough Street
Noho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2850 7788

2/F 11 Stanley Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 3030

Hyatt Regency
18 Chak Cheung Street
Shatin
New Territories
Tel 3723 1234

G/F 24 Hollywood Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2525 2028

7/F Coda Plaza
51 Garden Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 8811

2/F 21-25 Luard Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2501 7339

2/F Kinwick Centre
32 Hollywood Road
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 8199 8189

1/F Jusco Kornhill Store
Kornhill Plaza South
2 Kornhill Road
Quarry Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2967 4044

27/F QRE Plaza
202 Queen’s Road East
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2591 6338

28 Elgin St
Soho
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 7160

27A Lung Mei Village
Ting Kok Road
Tai Mei Tuk
Tai Po
Lantau Island
Tel 2791 4466 or 2792 4499

11 Luard Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2527 9933

228 Tung Choi Street
Prince Edward
Kowloon
Tel 2390 2628

G/F 18 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2155 1313

65 Wyndham Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2537 5702

Hullett House, 2A Canton Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3988 0101

G/F Sunning Plaza
Sunning Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 1148

30-32 Robinson Road
Mid Levels
Hong Kong
Tel 2521 7366

Shop G9-10 G/F Kornhill Plaza
1 Kornhill Road
Taikoo
Hong Kong
Tel 2560 8246

Shop 9, G/F Witty Commercial Building
1 Tung Choi Street
Mongkok
Kowloon
Tel 2781 0583

34 Gough Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2155 9210

Shop R008 3/F Elements Mall
1 Austin Road West
Kowloon
Tel 2810 8585

G/F 21 Wing Wo Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2545 6100

G/F 8 Hart Avenue
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2368 7299

G/F 67 Man Nin Street
Sai Kung
New Territories
TEl 2791 5068

G/F 2 Shin Hing Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 3485 1850

9 Keswick Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 4778

Shop SLG8-9a, Westlands Gardens
2-10 Westlands Road
Quarry Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2565 1001

1/F 11 Stanley Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2868 3738

Flat 4B Tak Fat Building
50-52 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 6438 3363

31 Elgin Street
Soho
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2524 4123/2523 3776

16 Wun Sha Street
Tai Hang
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 7272

G/F 115 Flora Plaza
Block 5
Fanling
New Territories
Tel 2947 9000

43 Gough Street
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2581 3303

Shop B-C G/F The Hennessy
256 Hennessy Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2574 3248

Hullett House, 2A Canton Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 3988 0107

G/F Beverley Commercial Centre
87-105 Chatham Road
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2721 8171

2/F-3/F 40-50 Des Voeux Road West
Sheung Wan
Hong Kong
Tel 2156 9328

G/F Shop E
Hau Wo Street
Kennedy Town
Hong Kong
Tel 2889 8849

1/F CNT Tower
338 Hennessy Road
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2892 0333

L1-34 Festival Walk
Kowloon Tong
Kowloon
Tel 2265 7333

G/F California Tower
30-32 D’Aguilar Street
Lan Kwai Fong
Central
Hong Kong
Tel 2521 1345

Royal Plaza Hotel
193 Prince Edward Road West
Mongkok
Kowloon

Shop 20, 1/F Waldorf Garden
1 Tuen Lee Street
Tuen Mun
New Territories

“Mmm, clammy,” said my companion. She was referring to the Clam Chowder ($98) so I assumed it was a good thing. She certainly seemed to be enjoying herself. My attention had been captured by the Roast Pumpkin with Feta Cheese ($118) which was quite delicious.

Union J is a Modern American restaurant located on the first floor of California Tower in Lan Kwai Fong. It has quite a large dining area with window seats overlooking the street itself.

There is a bar area at one end for those that just want to have drinks and perhaps a light snack. We had gone straight for a window table and ordered a bottle of South African Pinotage ($388) which we sipped as a group of tourists were marched up the ‘Fong’.

My friend happily mopped up the last of the clam chowder with some bread. I asked if it lived up to her expectations. “It did indeed,” she smiled.

For my main course I had ordered Black Cod with mushrooms ($188). This was every bit as enjoyable as the starter had been. The fish was firm and fresh and served on a bed of wild rice.

My friend, who had been slightly apologetic about ordering something as ordinary as roast chicken, was happy to report that there was nothing ordinary about this roast chicken, reporting the the chicken was delicious and very tender and that the potato was super creamy and buttery.

By the time she had finished (and I must admit I helped with the last piece of chicken) she wasn’t too sure if she had room for dessert. She did eventually allow herself to be talked into the Lime Sorbet with Banana which she was able to polish off without too much of a struggle. I took on the Apple Pie with Cinnamon Ice Cream.

Union J
1/F California Tower
Lan Kwai Fong

Shop 1-2 G/F Hopewell Centre
183 Queen’s Road East
Wanchai
Hong Kong
Tel 2861 0737

4/F Winfield Commercial Building
6-8a Prat Avenue
Tsimshatsui
Kowloon
Tel 2367 0555