Eat Drink Hong Kong

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110-114 Tun Lo Wan Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2398 8000

G/F 135 Sunning Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 3333

11/F Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 3444

G/F Sunning Plaza
Sunning Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 1148

9 Keswick Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 4778

Flat 4B Tak Fat Building
50-52 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 6438 3363

1/F 68 Yee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 4228

485 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2869 8282

16-17/F L’Hart, 487 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 6100

11/F Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3102 9363

27/F Continental Diamond Plaza
523-527 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 7033

34 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 203 4009

2/F Plaza 2000, 2-4 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2368 1263

The Burger Room is tiny and hugely popular. Every time I’ve passed it has been crowded but this last time I decided to belly up to the counter and and find out what it was all about.

There are a few tables in the middle, some leather looking easy chairs and some high seats down one side. Only the high seats were available when we arrived and we were lucky to get those. Had we arrived 5 minutes later we would have been turned away.

My companion went to inspect the fridge while I studied the menu. They do have a small range of bottled beers including Stella and Hoegaarden but he came back with a couple of Snapples claiming it was too early for beers.

The menu is small but intriguing. Alongside the eight or so burgers made with beef there are chicken and duck options as well as fish, crab and lobster. The lobster is the most expensive thing on the menu but is still a quite accessible $188.

My friend ordered a Bacon Chicken burger ($65), I went for The Club ($108) and to keep us company while we waited we ordered some melted cheese fries ($35) and breaded mozzarella sticks ($38). These were a mistake.

There was nothing at all wrong with them, they were really very tasty and we wolfed them down eagerly but then the burgers arrived and my jaw dropped. The Chicken was a generous fillet of breast topped with enough bacon to make a sandwich in its own right. In with it were lettuce, tomato and onion.

But if that looked big the Club was a masterpiece of engineering. On the lower part of the was a bed of lettuce. This was topped with tomato and onion. Next came the first beef patty topped with bacon, mushrooms and melted cheese. The cheese actually seemed to be serving as an adhesive to hold the second patty in place which itself was topped with melted cheese and a fried egg.

The top half of the bun was propped on the side and the whole lot was pinned together with an extra long flag. The beef was finely ground and with very little added fat.

There was no way to eat it in the accustomed manner of eating burgers. Knife an fork was the only way. I did my best. It’s not often I’m beaten but this time I had to admit defeat. My companion did better but even he left the bun to one side.

There are no desserts on the menu. There is a selection of tea and coffee options but I felt that even they were beyond me.

Cafe Tornado is a small casual little bistro amongst half a dozen or so restaurants on Caroline Hill Road in Causeway Bay. I spotted it a few weeks ago and decided to go back and give it a try.

Decor is simple, a bookshelf adds a homely feel to it and, because it is a small place, makes it feel quite cosy.

There are a few a la carte options but it is mostly set dinners, of which there are about six to choose from. They include a salad and soup of the day along with a main course. The prices range from $130-200.

For a $50 upgrade you can get a glass of house wine, a starter and a dessert. It all seemed very reasonable to me … but then I set the cat among the pigeons. I didn’t want the ordinary salad I rather fancied the smoked salmon with avocado salad ($80) from the a la carte menu. I assured the waitress I’d be willing to pay the extra.

She didn’t seem to certain but she agreed anyway and went off to deliver my order to the kitchen while I looked over the rest of the menu. It’s a curious mix of pasta dishes, some Japanese options and steak. It offers a good range of herbal teas and a range of coffees.

Presently the salad arrived, it was huge. The waitress said “Yes, this is the salmon and avocado … ” and then waving her finger vaguely around it she continued ” … and your set meal…” at which she beat a hasty retreat. Did she mean she has mixed the two salads together?

I decided not to pursue the matter. In actual fact all it entailed was extra foliage and it was crisp and fresh. I decided I would simply leave what I didn’t want.

That wouldn’t have been much at all had it not been for the arrival of my starter. There had been five or six items, all from the a la carte menu, that I could choose from. I had chosen the bacon and potato. It had a menu price of $53 and consisted of nice chunks of lean back bacon in a creamy sauce, very tasty indeed.

The soup of the day arrived shortly after. It turned out to be French onion soup. I can be quite picky about onion soup, this was served in a glass with a rather humdrum piece of toast on the side. But apart from the glass the soup’s only other crime was not having any cheese on top. The soup itself was rather good.

I’d ordered Roast Duck for the main course and this was a lovely piece. Tender and juicy with a delicious smoky flavour. It arrived on a mound of potatoes and garden vegetables.

I confess I was getting rather full but I had made a mental to order the home made lime yoghurt cheesecake from the menu for my dessert. Even if it did mean upsetting the waitress again. As it turned out they only had two desserts available; creme brulee and an Oreo and Baileys cheesecake. I plumped for the former.

The food here was very good and good value for money too. A little more organisation in the menu wouldn’t hurt and nor would a strategy for accommodating people who like to stray from the set menu.

21/F Circle Plaza
499 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2893 6120

4/F Ying Hong Mansion
Yee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 6981

18/F Henry House
42 Yung Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 2913

Rm 2, 2/F Percival House
83 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 0789

10/F World Trade Center
280 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 3127

Shop A, 518 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2151 0889

8/F Goldmark
502 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 1386

37/F Times Tower
393 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3741 1313

1/F 13 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 2125

Though I think the toys on the tables may have been more for kawaii cuteness than for the entertainment of little fingers, Mackie Kitchen does target a younger, more family oriented market. It’s a brightly lit restaurant with a series of endearingly wacky cityscape illustrations by AH Tsui along one wall. The other wall is painted bright orange.

A line on the menu encourages patrons to “Enjoy a coffee by the orange wall.” I decided to have dinner by the orange wall though I did have to move the table away from the wall an inch or two to give myself a bit of elbow room.

The menus are line covered, the a la carte menu had teddy bears embroidered on it. Most of the dishes here are also available as set dinner options which come with a soup and starter. Prices for the set dinner start as low as $98. There are about half a dozen choices for main course ranging from spaghetti to steak but even the most expensive items are still jolly reasonable.

I ordered the US pork chop in port wine sauce ($128) and a glass of Australian Chardonnay ($35)

Of the soup options I chose potato and leek which arrived promptly accompanied by a bread roll. It was tasty enough but a little on the thin side. The other choice had been gazpacho which I don’t mind but I couldn’t call it one of my favourites.

Next to arrive was baby octopus marinated in a Japanese sesame sauce served with a small salad. I did enjoy this dish. The octopus was not as chewy as I had been expecting and I had been happily wrapping it in lettuce leaves, Thai style.

The pork, when it arrived, was served with zucchini, aubergine and potato. It was a sizeable chop, nothing fancy in the preparation, just quality home cooking.

For an extra $20 you can add dessert. I went for the blueberry cheesecake and a regular coffee.

The final bill came to a whisker over $200. With that kind of value there is nothing you could complain about. I might not make regular visits myself but for young teens or for mums wanting to get a quick lunch while waiting to pick the kids up from kindergarten its a great place to hang out.

I hadn’t been planning to eat here to be honest. The bus deposited on Gloucester Road in Causeway Bay and I was intending to walk through to Times Square but the sky looked so gloomy I didn’t fancy my chances of getting there without a good soaking.

Seacoast was just a few paces away so I changed course and dived inside. It’s a simple place, the staff are cheerful and the service is prompt. Chinese tea was poured and a newscaster silently read the news on a wall mounted TV. I suspect that will be used for karaoke sessions later in the evening.

Though all the classic dishes such as tom yum are there leans heavily towards southern Thai with a seafood in milder yellow curries. There is also a nod to the local palette with Chinese influenced dishes.

I wasn’t sure what I wanted. Until I walked in my mind had been thinking of a different cuisine entirely. The first item I ordered was a spicy raw shrimp salad ($88). The waitress was keen to make sure I realised they were uncooked. The menu is mostly pictures and from the photo I could understand how some people may not realise.

The prawns themselves are not spicy at all. The little slice of green chilli that decorates them can easily be brushed aside. The dipping sauce is spicy but it does allow for the individual to add a dab or a dollop according to taste.

The next dish was grilled pork neck ($58) which comes with a sour coriander sauce. I had decided t forgo rice in order to avid getting too full but a serving of sticky rice would have set the pork off perfectly.

I was just about to wave my hand to attract the waitress when she appeared anyway with a large plate of stir fried vegetables with bamboo fungus ($58). I sensibly reconsidered the rice. The pork and the vegetables were enough.

I finished off with a time honoured favourite if mine, sago pudding with coconut cream ($25). Four little cakes of sago wrapped in banana leaf and topped with a layer of creamy white coconut. I think maybe two would have been sufficient but I ate them all anyway.

Shop A Hon Man Mansion
9-11 Wing Hing Street
Tin Hau
Tel 2503 3222

39 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 8358

2/F Cigna Tower
482 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2832 2863/2832 9038

27/F Bartlock Centre
3 Yiu Wa Street
Causeway Bay
Tel 2893 2080

1/F JIA Boutique Hotel
1-5 Irving Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2915 6628

Stepping off of Leighton Road and into Agnes B is like stepping into a little corner of Paris. Or rather the Paris of a bygone era. It’s hard not to be impressed by the decor. From vintage style floor tiles and the panelling on the walls to the brass light fittings and antique clock.

Dark wooden furnishings set with crisp white table linen complete the scene whilst net curtains hung from a brass rail at half window height blocks Leighton Road from view. The attention to detail is meticulous.

The only thing to give the game away is the very modern background music.

I took a table in the corner from where I could see the whole restaurant. It was still early so there were not too many customers yet, the waiter brought me a menu and then showed me the daily blackboard. The blackboard options were interesting but I decided to stay with the main menu.

They were about to introduce a whole new wine menu a day or two after I was there so the only wine they had left that I could order by the glass was a red. I didn’t catch the name, I’m a bit of a slacker when it comes to wine, but it was very agreeable.

I already knew that I wanted French onion soup ($58). I’m not a huge fan of soups generally. I like them well enough but I tend to think that a soup course is often more than I really need. But I make an exception for French onion soup. The dish is a firm favourite of mine and a good one will always be rewarded with repeat custom.

But before that I had ordered a dish called Gravadlax ($98). This is dill-cured salmon served with a sweet mustard sauce and a light salad. I’d thought some rye or brown bread might be served with it but it was not forthcoming. Not to worry, I still had some in the bread basked that had arrived when I sat down.

The onion soup came next and it was all I could have hoped for. I tried to take it slowly and savour it but I’m afraid I failed and before long I was mopping out the bottom of the red ceramic dish in which it was served with the remains of the bread basket.

I celebrated its departure with a large draft of wine and listened to the music. It was completely out of context with the surroundings but it was a pleasing contrast. It was a fairly laid back sound, gentle but not spineless.

My listening was interrupted by the grilled rack of lamb ($258) that I had ordered. Three meaty cutlets served with potatoes and another salad. It was good but I did feel the lamb deserved a little something more than just a salad. Asparagus perhaps, some carrot or green peas. It didn’t worry me all that much and to be honest if I had not already had salad with the gravadlax it probably would have bothered me at all.

For dessert I chose pear with raspberries, strawberries and black currant. All served with a scoop of home made vanilla ice cream ($68). Delicious.

I rounded off with a coffee and sat listening to the music for a while. It was a good meal in a very pleasant environment. But it is the French onion soup that will keep bringing me back.

There are half a dozen branches of Red Ant but, though I’d been asked many times, I’d never actually eaten in one. To be honest I’d never even thought about eating in one but a friend insisted that, even though it was a high turnover type of restaurant, the menu was interesting and the food was pretty good. I promised to give it a try.

I made good on that promise the other day when I spotted one behind Times Square. It’s the only one on Hong Kong Island and I usually try to give places like Times Square a wide berth so it had been several weeks since that conversation. Nevertheless my curiosity had been aroused so I went in.

It’s a modern place, clean and functional. They do subscribe to that music company that specialises in dragging you down those parts of memory lane which you would rather not revisit, otherwise it was pleasant enough.

But the menu is intriguing. It boasts flavours from both east and west, often on the same plate. Baked Escargots in Light Curry Sauce was one that caught my attention. It was a close call too but In the end I plumped for a more familiar sounding Baked Mashed Potato with Escargots topped with Herb Butter($32).

I also ordered Pan-fried Raw White Turnip Paste ($28). Both dishes were pretty good though as a combination I could probably have made a better choice. But I still managed to dispatch the snails and most of the turnip before the main dish arrived.

The main dish was Sautéed Linguine with Fresh Crab Meat and Yunnan Ham in Chives Cream Sauce ($68). The ham was shaved onto the top giving a little colour to the dish. This time the combination of flavours was good. The pasta sauce itself could have done with a sprinkle of parmesan cheese but there was none to be seen and the waiter was off looking after another customer. By the time he hove back into view I was almost finished.

I finished of with a sticky Glutinous Fresh Mango Roll ($20). Altogether the bill came to less than $200 dollars, I’d eaten more than enough and I had been pleasantly surprised at the quality of the food. I’m not sure I’d have dinner there on a regular basis but it is a good place to keep in mind for lunch

This is a pleasant little place in one of the less frenetic pockets of Causeway Bay. It’s an all day place with menus for breakfast, lunch, afternoon teas and dinner.

The dinners are in the form of a set meal; for three courses $168; four courses, $188. The extra course being soup. Each item is also individually priced so you could just order a main course if you wanted to.

There are half a dozen options each for starter and main. These change frequently according to what is available at market. There were two choices for soup but I’d already decided against the four course option.

For my starter I ordered the pan fried-frogs legs. I also ordered a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc while I waited.

The restaurant is divided into two sections. The front has more an afternoon cafe feel to it while the back is lined with linen covered seats and cushions on subtle beige and pale brown. Black and white photos of happy faces adorn the walls while a female singer delivers torch songs old and new in the background.

I’ve never been sure why some people say Frogs legs taste like chicken. I don’t think it does. It looks a little like tiny chicken drumsticks, but the meat is denser and has a slightly stronger, almost nutty flavour. These were basking in a sea of delicious, buttery, parsley sauce and topped with a small forest of salad.

Naturally I wanted more and could have easily dispatched another leg or two but I decided to wait patiently for my main course. For this I’d ordered white cod on polenta and French beans. The fish was firm and flakey as cod is supposed to be. The polenta, which is made from ground corn, was mixed with some whole kernels to add a little more texture.

Dessert was a choice of chocolate mousse and orange cappuccino. I went for the orange and rounded off with a fair trade coffee.

G/F 18 Shelter Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2894 9892

Podium 2, 280 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2894 8844

Shop B, G/F 405-49 Lockhart Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2591 6803

7/F, 502 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3428 2862

3/F Circle Tower
28 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2833 5337

Rosedale on the Park
8 Shelter Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2127 8838

12/F Food Forum
Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2874 8899

24 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2831 0163

G/F Circle Tower
28 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2574 177

94 Tung Lo Wan Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2503 5888

9/F Goldmark
502 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 2078

37-38/F Times Tower
391-407 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3151 7125

96 Tung Lo Wan Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2578 5932

2/F Bartlock Centre
3 Yiu Wa Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 5939

Shop A,C,D G/F Miami Mansion
13-15 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 3930

1/F 20-22 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2575 7128 or 6010 8128

G/F 59-65 Paterson St
Fashion Walk
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2367 2710

17/F 525 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3907 0090

2-8 Sugar Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2196 2196

7 Caroline Hill Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 9130

22/F, United Success Centre
508 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3427 3726

1/F JIA Boutique Hotel
1-5  Irving Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3196 9100

1 Hoi Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 3111

G/F 2-5 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 0450

9/F World Trade Centre
280 Gloucester Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2576 6777

7/F Circle Tower
28 Tang Lung Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2836 0671

According to the place mat the restaurant takes it’s name from a recipe for the famous Vietnamese beef noodle broth that was popular at a railway station hawker stand. The old hawker never gave up his secret recipe but cafe locomotive have created their very own.

It seems to be popular too. On my previous trips to this area the Cafe Locomotive has always been packed. This time I got there early.

The decor boasts a railway theme with luggage racks and station clocks showing the time in several cities around Asia. The staff are friendly and efficient. I ordered a coconut base with jelly bits and ice and perused the menu. Most people were having the noodles and they did look very good but I had decided I wanted to try something different.

I started with roasted French quail ($48) this is served simply on a banana leaf with a slice of lime and an orchid (which I didn’t eat). It can sometimes be a bit of a fight to get the meat from the bones of small birds. The use of fingers is essential. The restaurant does provide disposable plastic gloves but that is cheating in my view and besides it makes the whole process seem rather surgical.

It was a tasty bird and it wasn’t long before all I had left was a neat pile of bones. The waitress enquired as to whether everything was to my satisfaction. I assured it was and she whisked my plate away.

The waiter had warned me that the quail would take around fifteen minutes to prepare. This meant that my next dish, big head prawn ($118) arrived almost as soon as the last one had been cleared away.

The prawns were baked in a rich, buttery garlic sauce. This too was most agreeable. The only downside was that flesh of the prawn seemed rather less that the shell had promised. But I guess that is prawns for you. You never do get as much as you think you’re going to get.

For vegetable I’d ordered morning glory in broth ($42). It turned out to be a considerably larger bowl than I had anticipated. I couldn’t finish it all though I made a valiant effort soaking up the broth with garlic bread.

The lemon creme brulee with cinnamon sugar French toast and ginger ice-cream ($39) proved to be an excellent finale but then I’m a sucker for ginger ice cream.

Cafe Locomotive is quite a small but very popular restaurant. If you’re making a special trip it’s worth calling ahead to make a reservation.

Well what do you call a Japanese home-style curry house? In it’s defence it does have a large kawaii (that means cartoon-cute) panda flying across the ceiling. I’m not sure what it has to do with curry but it is, I suppose, very Japanese.

Mercifully the rest of this little restaurant is of the wooden, clean-lined simplicity which is even more Japanese to my sensibilities, and far more welcome than flying pandas.

I vowed not to look up and instead gave my full attention to the menu. Familiar items such as sushi are available, but the centrepiece of the menu are the curries. There are several to choose from - I opted for the minced beef. To go with it I also ordered a sampler dish of four side orders. These included prawn scallop and oyster tempura plus tofu.

The curry arrived first. The rice formed a little island in a sea of curry sauce while the mince filled in the centre of the rice. Two little ears of okra poked kawaii-like from the top but despite that little indignity it looked quite good.

It tasted very good. Japanese curry is usually quite mild and whilst this couldn’t claim to be spicy it did have a little kick to it. The sauce was laced with mushrooms and other goodies. I breached the wall of rice and let the mince spill in.

I was half-way through before the other bits arrived and to be honest, I didn’t really need them. They were perfectly edible but just seemed a little bland. Curry is perhaps not the best thing to have them with … though that didn’t stop me cleaning the plates.

I washed it all down with a banana smoothie, paid the bill which was a little under $200, and was on my way. The decor maybe iffy but the curry is spot on. It’s in an awkward part of Causeway Bay, but if you want to get away from the crowds for a bite then it’s a good place. Just don’t look up

I wanted crispy pork. I’d been wanting it all day - I think I probably woke up wanting it but by lunch time I still hadn’t decided where I was going to go to get it. Then a friend called and asked if I’d been to Sergio’s in Causeway Bay and what did I think?

Well I had to confess I hadn’t heard of Sergio’s but since it sounded Italian I figured there would be a fairly decent chance that crispy roast pork would be on the menu. “I’ll tell you tomorrow” I said.

It’s an unusual place for restaurant, out on Causeway Road opposite Victoria Park. There are a couple of al fresco tables but it is mostly inside though it does maintain a garden like feel. Windows along two sides make it seem a little more spacious while strategically placed plants hide most of the buses rumbling by outside.

I was happy to note that crispy roast was indeed on the menu; Il Porcellino Croccante al Forno ($168). According to the English, “crispy baby pig ‘mother’ style”. Which I presume means just how Sergios mum cooked it.

Sounded good to me but first I decided to order the Affettato misto All’ Italiana ($138), a selection of salami and prosciutto. This was really my second choice. I’d wanted the Salmone Afumicato con Crostini Caldi. The waitress was very sorry but explained that the markets had failed to yield salmon of a standard that Sergio was happy with that morning.

Since a good prosciutto needs to hang for a considerable length of time I felt confident that it would be available. It was served very simple with just the wine and the bread basket to accompany it.

The crispy roast pig was a delight and well worth waiting for. It was also a very generous serving delivered by a waitress whose smile seemed to know that that I’d been looking forward to it all day. She refilled my glass.

Again the dish was served very simply with roast potatoes and garnished with rosemary. I tucked in. The meat was tender and succulent and satisfied my craving quite admirably.

I rarely order Tiramisu, I don’t know why. I think perhaps because it is just such a common dessert and I usually like to look for the unusual. The tiramisu at Sergios is ‘grandmother style’ and it wasn’t to be denied.

An odd name, even by the odd naming conventions of pubs. There are two branches, one in Tsim Sha Tsui and another in Times Square, Causeway Bay. I went along to the latter the other evening.

The ‘gastropub’, as 798 Unit & Co describe themselves is mostly reminiscent of a medieval beer hall. Nothing particularly odd about that, indeed the larger tables in the middle that are common in such beer halls are perfectly suited to Hong Kong peoples love of dining together in large groups.

What was a bit strange were the hacienda-like arches along one side and the distinctly Mediterranean menu. I’d already ordered a Murphy’s Stout and was searching the menu for something that might go with it. In the end I gave up thinking I could gulp the beer down while I was waiting for the food to arrive and then order a glass of wine.

I was wrong. I ordered two tapas, both of which arrived with a promptness and efficiency that was that was really quite impressive. I looked towards the kitchen with admiration. The kitchen is actually visible through the back wall. The bright reassuring cleanliness of the modern facility contrasts with both the beer hall and the hacienda.

The tapas were wasabi beef ($80) and grilled octopus with chorizo, roast tomato and onions ($68). Both were very good. The only criticism I would level would be at the octopus and chorizo and that was because there was substantially more octopus and whilst I do like it, I like chorizo equally.

The menu boasts all the regulation pizzas and pastas and delicious though they probably are, I figured that would be a mistake after two largish tapas. I’d already consulted with the waitress. We’d concluded that the Murphy’s would go well with a steak and we could probably get away with a pizza. But, if we left beer out of the equation than we both agreed that the salmon filet with parsley crust in a fish broth with tomato and olives ($108) would be ideal.

She assured me it was one of the lighter entrees on the menu and would leave me with ample room for dessert. It was delicious too. The soup had a pleasant sharpness to it that complemented the fish. I imagined it would probably do alright with a hint of jalapeño added to it.

I mopped up the last of the soup with the remains of the crusty bread that had been served when I arrived. And turned my attention to the stout. It had lost it’s ‘just out of the fridge’ chill which is actually beneficial for a stout. I spent a leisurely ten or fifteen minutes enjoying that and watching people arrive.

It was mostly an after office crowd while I was there and whilst it wasn’t full I doubt there would be too many complaints from the management. I guessed that by 8.30pm you would be lucky to get a table without a prior reservation.

All the dishes on the dessert menu are tried and trusted favourites. I ordered the brownies with banana fudge gelato ($42) and a coffee.

Nobody seemed all that fazed by the contrasting styles of the restaurant. I suspect I’m one of the few people around that actually notices these things. But it doesn’t really worry me, how can it when I am going to step out and straight back in to a bustling shopping mall?

There has been quite a lot of talk about Cherry Garden and the other restaurants that are popping up around Tai Hang. Though most of them actually popped up a year or more ago. It’s also been suggested that the area could be the next restaurant district. Wun Sha Road where most of the restaurants are isn’t all that appealing, but the narrow roads and low rise buildings nearby certainly would have possibilities. At the moment, however, it is mostly auto repair shops.

Anyway, I’d heard good things about The Cherry Garden so I decided it was time to go and see for myself.

It’s a popular little place, I got there just after seven and it was already quite busy. There is a rather large lighting fixture but otherwise the decor is clean and simple. There are some Chinese style square tables and stools and some conventional rectangular tables. Some jazzy sounds were drifting from a loudspeaker somewhere but it wasn’t very loud.

The menu is European and fairly straightforward. There is a choice of steaks, lamb, chops and chicken. There are also pasta and pizza options as well as vegetarian choices. It struck me as being a pretty well balanced menu for all the family.

For starters I was hankering after some calamari ($34) but the potato skins ($28) were also tempting so in the end I ordered both. The skins came stuffed, one side with bacon and cheese the other side vegetables in a tomato sauce. Both dishes were garnished with a little jungle of salad greens.

For the main course I’d ordered the baby back ribs ($98). The menu warned of a thirty minute wait (hence the two starters) but it didn’t take anywhere near that long.

“We’re not that busy tonight,” the waiter assured me. I looked around and thought that there must be quite a lot of restaurants that would kill to be ‘not that busy’ on a Wednesday night.

The ribs were served with regulation fries. These were a little ordinary but the ribs themselves were perfectly acceptable. Again there was a little forest of green on the side but this time there were some peppers to add a little colour.

Now I have often said that a meal isn’t complete without dessert, and I have also often lamented that too many restaurants don’t make the effort to come up with interesting choices. But Cherry Garden really pull out an ace with their Earl Grey Pudding and Fresh Fruit Sabayon ($38).

The Sabayon (from the Italian zabaione) is a light airy sauce made from eggs, sugar and some kind of liquor poured over watermelon, pineapple and papaya. Green tea ice cream had never really excited me but the Earl Grey pudding was truly yummy.

I left and headed back towards Causeway Bay through the narrow streets. I could envision tables on the pavement, plants growing up walls. People spilling out onto street corners, drinks in hand, on balmy summer evenings. It would indeed make an excellent bar and restaurant district. But I couldn’t help thinking that if it did take off, it would attract the attention of some corporate behemoth who would wreck the place for everyone and put up some soulless concrete and glass tower.

I’m not at all fond of elevators on the outside of buildings. I’m not sure why, I don’t suffer vertigo but I’ve never been completely comfortable with the floor receding beneath me at quite such speed. So, if I had been left to my own devices I would have made my way up to the Food Forum of Times Square via the escalator.

But it was not to be, I bumped into one of my dinner companions on the way in and she insisted on using the lift. I acquiesced quietly, I didn’t want to appear a wimp. Fortunately the lift was crowded so I didn’t have to admire the view and I arrived at the twelfth with my appetite unimpaired.

There are a lot of interesting restaurants up here so we did a quick tour of the menus, while we waited for the third member of our group, before heading into Water Margin. This is one of a growing number of restaurants that are looking back to Chinese history and traditions to create a new kind of ambience in which to enjoy the country’s cuisine.

In the past so many Chinese restaurants have been decorated with a modern and, too often, rather bland feel. Stepping into Water Margin is almost like stepping back in time. At the entrance a waterfall and a large dark wooden counter covered in dried chillies set the tone. The main dining area continues the theme. Large wooden tables and chairs on a flagstone floor, wooden paneled screens line the walls and paper lanterns provide subdued, but dramatic lighting.

The cuisine is northern Chinese with a few modern flourishes. We ordered drinks. The lychee, rose, cinnamon and honey ($38) and the bamboo with vodka and lemon ($48) were both delicious and refreshing.

The menu is in both Chinese and English. In keeping with the theme of the restaurant it is bound between two pieces of carved wood and offers a wide, tantalising range of dishes. As usual, I wanted to try everything but my companions were a little more practical. We agreed on three dishes; Crispy de-boned lamb ribs ($158), Wok fried fish cake with salted egg sauce ($108) and Winter melon puree with poached egg white ($78). To go with it we ordered a very pleasant chinese rice wine called Nuer Hong which translates as “the blush of the daughter”.

There were some Sichuan dishes I would love to have tried but I decided it would be better to save them for another time. The food we did order didn’t disappoint. Indeed the de-boned lamb, which is served with pancakes and a soy and spring onion sauce, and the fish cakes were both excellent. The only slight criticism was that the winter melon in poached egg white leaned a little too much in favour of the egg white at the expense of the winter melon.

My companions didn’t seem so enthusiastic about dessert but agreed to share a pomelo with black sticky rice and sago.

It was a delicious meal in a very pleasant environment, the only real down side is its in Times Square. But then, I hate shops and shopping, a sentiment that didn’t seen to afflict my two friends.

They have had a little place in Wanchai for a while but Shake ‘em Buns has recently opened a larger place at 5 Hoi Ping Road in Causeway Bay. Just opposite the Inside Out beer garden at Sunning Plaza.

Indeed it seems to be benefiting from the popularity of the pub. It certainly was in my case. I’d stopped by for a beer and decided to grab a burger as well.

The menu definitely seems to be targeting people of a pub-going age. I can’t imagine a ‘Frying Nemo’, succulent cod fillet burger with home made tarter sauce, going down all that well with the younger generation. Nor can I imagine their parents struggling to explain a ‘Sissy Boy’ (vegetarian) Burger. “Um, it’s for people who don’t like meat, dear”.

I must admit I was very tempted by the ‘Gang Bang’. It’s the most expensive item on the menu but still jolly reasonable at $98 for a double beef patty with bacon and a fried egg. But I also had my heart set on some chilli cheese fries ($39) and I knew I wouldn’t be able to finish.

I was intrigued by the tofu burger but it had “coming soon” printed next to it on the menu - the young lady on the till didn’t know exactly when. Other options included a Philly Willy cheese steak ($65) and a Doggie Style, which can be either a smoked bratwurst, bredder cheddar or hot link ($32). For an extra $7 you can have Mama’s home-made chilli poured over it.

In the end I settled for a South of the Border ($60) This is a classic burger slathered with sour cream, guacamole and salsa. It was good. A substantial amount of dressing oozed out of the far side at first bite but the burger wasn’t diminished for the loss. After that I managed to get fully half way through before it finally collapsed, as all good burgers eventually do.

The chilli cheese fries were excellent, at least the chilli part was. The fries on their own would be just ordinary but the chilli livened them up considerably and they will make a very agreeable snack when they get their alcohol licence sorted out.

There are no desserts on the menu. I had fooled myself into thinking that I might try the Pepper Stuffers ($39), breaded Jalapenos with cheese, if I wasn’t too full, but in the end it was as much as I could do to finish the remains of my raspberry blizzard smoothie ($35).

Shake ‘em Buns is already doing a roaring trade and apparently they have more outlets in the pipeline so watch this space.

Given my aversion to shopping this is the kind of place that I could easily miss. Indeed, had missed until I was asked if I’d eaten there, and what I thought of it.

The restaurant is tucked away on the second floor of the Goods Of Desire shop overlooking Leighton Road in Causeway Bay. It’s not a fancy place, it’s exactly the kind of place you might want after a hectic afternoon shopping.

The decor is simple but functional. Some of the tables have nice sofas on which to lounge and the red Chinese lanterns that hang from the ceiling are a pleasing touch.

It is quite busy though there are still unoccupied tables. Most of the other guests appeared to be young couples taking a break from the melee in the shops and one group of office girls who seem to be celebrating something.

The menu offers an intriguing selection of international dishes. The starters alone tempted me with satays, Vietnamese style spring rolls, deep fried camembert with cranberry sauce. I was torn between potato skins ($28) and some thing called ‘Slim+Fit’ which consisted of sauteed spinach and garlic.

Good sense told me I should go for the healthy option but right at the last moment indulgence prevailed. I knew I was going to enjoy the potato skins. Indeed potato skins are pretty hard to hurt. All you need is a dollop of melted cheese, some sour cream to dip them in and a sprinkle each of bacon bits and chives. And for the price I thought they were excellent value for money too.

The menu also offers a wide range of shakes, smoothies and other drinks. I ordered a banana strawberry shake ($38).

For main course I had a dish called ‘In bed with Pumpkin’ ($88). This included a salmon steak served with home made pumpkin mash vegetables and dill sauce.

I was pleased with the choice, it had been a tough call between that and the fish and chips with beer batter. For people who might want something lighter Home Cooking also serves Vietnamese, Malaysian and Japanese noodle dishes.

For dessert I opted for the ginger pudding with ginger Ice cream ($48) and rounded off with a coffee.

This is a neat little eatery, decent food and reasonably priced. And you can do all your shopping on the way out!

Harmony Cafe is tucked away on a little side road called Tang Lung Street that runs from Hennessy Road to Canal Road on that stretch right in front of Times Square. Though finding the road is the easy part. The restaurant is on the first floor at number 21 and is marked only by a small sign on a grey gate.

Upstairs, it’s a friendly little place with seating for probably no more than 15 or 16 people. The decor is simple, just some book shelves and magazines and a few ornaments. The atmosphere is relaxed and the strains of Bob Marley drift through the air.

I’m not quite sure why but Bob Marley seems to be very popular in vegetarian restaurants. Still I’ve no complaint with that, I like Bob marley. So with head gently bobbing to the music I perused the menu. There is a fairly wide choice of dishes ranging from vegetarian pizza, noodles rice and salads. A couple that caught my eye were the steamed veggies and mushrooms with organic brown rice and the bean sprouts and and tofu soup. But in the end I opted for the baked Italian salad. ($30)

This consisted of tomatoes and basil with mozzarella cheese melted over the top. It was a simple but pleasing dish. I also ordered a glass of organic red wine ($50) which was produced by a small vineyard in France. They didn’t have any more information than that but it was quite drinkable.

For those who don’t want wine there is a mouthwatering range of fruit smoothies and healing juice combos. Apple and beetroot, for example, would boost my circulation whilst apple and lime would calm my nerves.

My main course was grilled eggplant and noodles with homemade organic soy sauce and garnished with alfalfa ($45). This didn’t look like such a large dish at first but it was certainly very filling and very tasty too. Like the starter, the key to its success was the simplicity.

For dessert I ordered a Fresh Fruit and Tofu Parfait. This consisted of mango, strawberry, banana, cinnamon, flax seed and raw honey ($35). Again this was a very pleasant dish, it could have been even better had it been chilled just a little more. But it is a small complaint in what was otherwise a very pleasant meal.

Despite being small and difficult to find, the restaurant had a steady stream of customers.

They are open six days a week, Tuesday-Sunday. On Mondays they give demonstrations where you can learn to cook your own organic food. For both reservations for the restaurant and demo call 3109 3152.

I didn’t ask but I suspect the large wall mounted TV attracts sports fans at the weekend or perhaps karaoke fans. There was some mountain biking on when I was there but this was about seven o’clock on a Wednesday.

The cuisine is Italian but it’s not what I would call a romantic hole in the wall where you go for a candle lit dinner with someone special. This is a restaurant for an evening out with a group of good friends.

The food is good and reasonably priced so I had few complaints. Unfortunately the first one was the bread basket. Low on variety and kept warm just a little too long it just seemed a little half hearted. Still, with the help of a liberal amount of olive oil and a glass of Pinot Grigiot, I made the best of it.

From there on things got better. For starter I had opted for the Portobello mushroom with mixed vegetable ($70). The vegetables included red peppers and zucchini. The mushroom was plump and firm with a pleasant flavour. It was a simple but pleasing dish. It left me eagerly anticipating the main course.

Unfortunately this was a little slow out of the blocks. Not really slow enough to make a fuss about but I was well into my second glass of wine by the time it arrived.

I’d been waiting for the baked crab on codfish ($168) and when it arrived it redeemed itself by being quite delicious. The crab-meat was tasty and the cod tender and succulent. Served with spinach in a cream sauce.

By now the restaurant was filling up. Even on a Wednesday it is evidently popular. I scanned the menu for dessert. The waitress told me that the Hot souffle with vanilla sauce ($60) was good but it would take 15-20 minutes to prepare. I’d been expecting that and ordered it anyway. She was right, it was good.

I finished off with a coffee. It was a good meal, not spectacular but definitely one to remember after a grueling afternoon shopping.

It’s always nice to go out to dinner with a large group of people. It’s even nicer when they do all the ordering and all I have to do is sit back and enjoy. That was almost what happened the other evening when a group of friends decided that it was high time I tried the Xinjishi Shanghai restaurant in Causeway Bay.

Xinjishi is a well established name with branches in Beijing, Taipei and six in Shanghai itself. The interior of the Hong Kong branch was designed by Yasumichi Morita who is responsible for designing numerous swanky restaurants around Japan. Elegant it was too, and with a slight 1960s retro feel. It was quite bright, as Chinese restaurants often are, and busy, but not overcrowded.

Menus were handed out all round and there was much discussion. I’d told myself that I wasn’t even going to look at the menu, but I’m a weak-willed soul and when one was placed into my hands I couldn’t help but turn my attention away from the soybean and the peanut with seaweed starters that had been placed on the table as the tea was poured.

It is worth noting that Xinjishi doesn’t have a licence to sell alcohol but they do offer free corkage at dinner times. Call me old-fashioned but I like tea with Chinese food. It seemed I wasn’t alone, nobody expressed the slightest disappointment at the lack of wine.

Indeed everyone was having way too much fun with the menu. “Would you mind preserved crab in sweet prune wine” ($250) I was asked ” the crab isn’t actually cooked - it is marinated for seven days”. I didn’t mind at all. It was one that I had quietly singled out as a must try. So much for trying not to look at the menu.

Everyone around the table was adding their own choice to the list, when my turn came I added salt spiced fried duck ($65). Well at least they did MOST of the ordering!

The service was friendly and efficient and we didn’t have to wait long. The first dish to arrive was the preserved crab. The crab meat itself had turned pale yellow from the wine marinade. This combined with the pinkish-orange colour of the roe and the thoughtful arrangement of the shell made for a visually appealing dish. The person to my right singled out a huge claw which we shared, though there was plenty to go around. It was also really quite delicious.

I was just delving in for seconds when the next dishes, fried beef with orange peel ($55) and steamed pork dumpling with crab cream ($60) arrived. These also were excellent. The pork is suspended in soup inside the dumpling. It takes considerable skill just to lift them out of the bamboo tray without bursting them. I had help from the waiter.

The idea is to get them into your mouth before bursting the dumpling whereupon a little tidal wave of flavour washes over the tongue.

The dishes were arriving at quite a pace now, the fried duck, sauteed bean curd with crab cream ($250), turnip pastry ($32), Pickled cabbage with bean curd skin and green peas ($60) and Xinjishi vegetable fried rice ($60). None of them could be accused of being disappointing and before long six chairs were being pushed slightly backwards to make room for newly replete waistlines.

The only blot on the landscape was a morsel of preserved crab that had somehow been overlooked as the other dishes had arrived. I did the honours.

But, as I’m very fond of saying, a meal is not complete without dessert. Desserts are not one of the stronger points in of Chinese cuisine but one can usually find something. This time we found a very pleasant walnut soup with sesame dumplings and coconut and red bean paste. They did the job admirably.

Xinjishi has bilingual menus and staff who are friendly and helpful.

I’d been down in the Dickens Bar having a swift pint with on old friend who was on whirlwind business trip. I admit I’d been half expecting that we would get into one of those ‘just like the old days’ marathon drinking sessions. But it was not to be. He managed to fit me in between his last meeting and his taxi to the airport.

I watched him bundle his suitcase into the back of the taxi. It was good to see the old rogue but I was secretly grateful that I wasn’t going to have one of those ‘just like the old days’ Wednesday morning hangovers. But, since I was here I might as well take advantage of the situation.

I turned about and headed back into the Excelsior Hotel and up to Cammino on the first floor. Cammino with it’s wooden shuttered windows and terra cotta tiling, is a little corner of Tuscany. The atmosphere is informal and the staff friendly, attentive and indeed prompt. A glass of fruity Primitivo di Puglia ($80 for a large one) was produced before I’d even made up my mind on a starter.

I’d narrowed the choices down to either the Antipasto Toscano which consisted of cured meats, goats cheese and marinated vegetables ($138) or the Forest Mushroom Ragout on a baked Portobello Mushroom ($108).

The cured meats won the day and I was treated to a selection of salami and parma ham and cheese served on an impressively large glass plate with salad, artichokes, sun-dried tomato and a generous slice of chilled rock melon.

The bread basket was also generous. Five different types served with roasted garlic, butter and balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

For a main course I ordered the oven roasted rack of lamb with herb garlic crust ($248). The dish was handsomely presented with creamed potato and a balsamic sauce. The lamb was tender and juicy and was again, a generous portion.

Two other items on the menu that were jostling for attention were the pan fried sole ($288) and the linguine with Boston lobster which can be ordered as a starter ($128) or as a main course ($188).

Personally I prefer to have pasta at lunchtime. If I eat pasta at dinner I often find I’m too full and lose interest in dessert.

This evenings dessert was the minted woodland berry compote with mascarpone cheese mouse. Although it is called a cheese it’s flavour is very creamy and is a perfect accompaniment for the tartness of the fruit.

I rounded off with a coffee. Leaning back I thought about my friend, he must be about queuing to board by now I guessed. I thought about what options he would have on his in-flight menu and would he go for the fish or the chicken.

Pang’s Kitchen is tucked down behind Happy Valley Racecourse, on Yik Yam street. We had heard it was run by an ex hotel chef and has been hugely successful in the 2 years since opening.

We had booked a table for three at 7pm and were called right on time to let us know that the previous diners were still there and would it be OK to wait. We were appreciative of the service.

When we arrived, a table had still not been freed up, so we peeked a look at one of the menus outside, available for takeaway service (the queue did not disappear the whole time we were there).

Inside, the restaurant is small - maybe 35 diners at the most, with white walls and dark wood. The staff are congenial and efficient.

The menu seemed mainly standard Cantonese fare, including braised goose feet in oyster sauce, snake soup, deep-fried bean curd or squid.

Though we were intrigued by the fish in hotpot with secret sauce, the sweet and sour pork with strawberry and scrambled milk with mixed vegetables, in the end we decided to stick to the tried-and-tested crispy chicken with garlic, oysters with port wine sauce and steamed crab with sticky rice. The dishes arrived quickly.

The oysters came first in a steaming clay bowl, fried, with lots of onions. The strong taste of the wine blended well with the onion, to make a delicious sauce for the chewy oysters. If you order it though, you are advised to eat quickly as the congealing cold oysters looked most unappetizing!

The crab appeared, in a dim-sum basket, on a bed of sticky rice. The meat was very soft and a lot of the flavour had seeped into the rice. We’d have preferred less taste in the rice and more in the crab. The chicken with garlic, however, was just as it should be - crispy on the outside, tender on the inside.

It’s obvious this place has made its name by doing the staples very well, and next time we’re in Happy Valley it will definitely be on the list of restaurants we will choose from.

This is a family restaurant that has a slightly more interesting take on the concept of a pizza. I went along to the branch on the 13th floor of Times Square in Causeway Bay to try one.

Living up to its role as a family restaurant there were two young super-heroes zapping threatening looking chairs and tables with imaginary kill-o-beam zap guns or whatever the weapon of choice is these days. Suffice to say that had I been a malevolent piece of furniture it would have been splinters for me. I picked my table with care..

The restaurant is bright and spacious, the decor simple but functional. The waiter was at the table in no time brandishing the menu.

Pizza, of course, dominates the menu but it is by no means the only choice. There is also an interesting range of pastas and Focaccia sandwiches. It also offers a mouthwatering array of appetizers, soups and salads.

I ordered California shrimp rolls ($48). These are similar to the cold spring rolls found in Laos, Vietnam and parts of Thailand. The white noodle, carrots and bean sprouts remain the same but these were stuffed with flame-grilled shrimps which added a deliciously smokey twist to them. They were served chilled, with a dipping sauce of sesame and ginger.

There are no less than 25 different pizzas on the menu. All the familiar favourites are there; the Hawaiian, the pepperoni and mushroom and the basic cheese and tomato sauce. These cater for the more traditional tastes but it was the intriguing selection on non-conventional toppings and sauces that had caught my eye.

The Peking duck; roasted duck breast, shiitake mushrooms and crispy wontons with a ginger sauce. Then there was The Jamaican Jerk chicken with a spicy sweet Caribbean sauce and roasted red and yellow peppers. Roast potato and grilled chicken comes with a white wine and lemon garlic butter sauce.

I wanted to try them all but in the end I settled on a Carne Asada ($78). This is grilled steak with fire roasted chillies, Monterey jack and mozzarella cheeses and a cilantro (coriander) pesto. It was served with a delicious tomatillo salsa. There is only one size of pizza but it is easily big enough for two people to share, especially if you order a starter as well..

The service is prompt and friendly. I noted with satisfaction that the furniture had been vanquished and the two gentlemen that had saved the day had been rewarded with hot fudge brownies and were about to be taken home to bed.

Takeaway service is available and they will deliver to addresses within a kilometre of Times Square.

During the 4th-6th centuries the Hakka people, who originated in northern China were forced south by a combination of wars and natural disasters. They eventually settled throughout Southern China, living in houses that could hold up to a hundred families. The houses were made from rammed earth on a bamboo frame and many are still being used today. Eryi Tulou (or tower) is one of a group of these buildings in western Fujian province.

The restaurant of the same name is in a rather soulless building on Gloucester Road, and a bit out of the way if you are coming by MTR. We arrived just after 9pm on a Tuesday, and the large restaurant was about half full. The interior is dark, but modern and simple. There are pictures of the rounded Hakka homes along one wall, and a row of the traditional black-shaded hats used as lightshades.

The main menu consists of a lot of more traditional Hakka dishes, such as fried pigs belly with salt, traditional stuffed beancurd, or stewed meat with preserved sour vegetables. There are several varieties of sharks fin, and a selection of standard dishes like scallops with brocolli and deep fried spare-ribs. There are daily specials hung on the large pillars (unfortunately for us monolinguists, only in Chinese)

We were pleased to discover that we could buy Tsingtao beer for $14 for two bottles, so decided to ignore the Hakka sticky rice wine and lychee wine, which at only $40 a bottle were both tempting. We asked for sweet potato congee, but they had sold out - a bit disappointing, but at least it lets you know the food is fresh. We tried a bowl of the sticky rice with sweet potato instead.

There is a page of chef’s recommendations for river fish which you can request cooked in 10 different ways. We wanted the eel cooked with chinese olives - but this was also sold out. However, there was another eel dish, Dongjiang stewed eel in pot - a soup with large pieces of tender eel, salty vegetables and tofu, which we all agreed was wonderful.

We also requested the Xingning whole duck (only $128) - guess what? sold out! Our waiter recommended we try the chicken in yellow sticky rice wine, which was on the daily special menu, and we were very glad we did. A huge steaming bowl of buttery, alcoholic sauce with chicken and jujubes (Chinese dates) and ginger arrived. It was exceptionally good.

The total bill was only $240 for three people. After the initial irritations of ordering, this restaurant really came up trumps with the alternative dishes that were recommended to us. So our advice to you is, don’t arrive knowing what you want to eat, but listen to your waiter. Also, if the rest of the menu is as good as the few dishes we had, then you’ll want to bring more people in order to try more of it!

One last point about the Hakka houses. In the 1980s, US spy satellites spotted them and US ‘intelligence’ believed the Chinese had built hundreds of nuclear missile silos! Now UNESCO is considering placing several on the World Heritage cultural properties list.

G/F Miami mansion
13-15 Cleveland Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2504 3930
Fax 2511 0326

Chiu Chow cuisine comes from a small coastal area in the easternmost corner of Guangdong province. Because of its proximity to Hong Kong the styles have overlapped somewhat but there are still enough dishes that are uniquely Chiu Chow to support a whole range of eateries from small corner shops to elegant restaurants.

In order to sample a few of these dishes I enlisted the help of renowned artist and jolly good friend Liliane Tsui. Liliane’s family came from the Chiu Chow region so it seemed a fair guess that she would know best what to order. She suggested we go to the Pak Loh Chiu Chow Restaurant at the Lee Theatre Plaza in Causeway Bay. The restaurant has traditional-style decor and a pleasant airy feel.

We were shown to our table and promptly served with tiny cups of Iron Buddha oolong tea and a dish of preserved vegetables. The tea is bitter and strong and is believed to aid digestion.

The first item we ordered was sliced soya goose ($70). This is perhaps the best known of all Chiu Chow dishes. The whole goose is first braised in soy, star anise and other spices before being sliced and served with tofu. The meat was succulent and tender with the star anise imparting a mild liquorice flavour. Liliane pointed out that soy intestines and webs (feet) were also available at $60.

The next dish to arrive was fried kidney beans with minced pork and preserved olives ($60). Unlike Cantonese cuisine, where the flavours tend to be rather subtle, Chiu Chow flavours are a lot more distinct. In this dish the olives were the dominant force. To accompany it we had ordered rice. This is not the familiar steamed rice, instead the rice is cooked ahead of time, kept overnight and is re-boiled just before serving so the rice is very wet, almost porridge like.

Because Chiu Chow is a coastal area, seafood is plentiful, with prawns and crab both playing a significant role. One of the best known seafood dishes is oyster omelette. We had already ordered fried pomfret in soy ($80) and so reluctantly decided to save the omelette for another visit. I was able to manage a small bowl of green bean with gingko in sweet soup ($20). Gingko are small white nuts which Liliane assured me are good for my memory.

The restaurant does have a menu in English and the staff were attentive and helpful. Reservations for lunch are recommended.

This little place away on a side street off Kings Road in Tin Hau was a happy find. It’s quite a brightly lit place with decor that consists of one wall in a neat wooden alpine chalet chalet style which faces a wall illuminated with early seventies style light fittings.

Between these is a towering fake palm tree with strings of flowers, again fake, bringing colour to the scene. It’s not unpleasant, just a little odd. And it certainly didn’t seem to be putting anyone off, at just after seven in the evening the restaurant seemed to be doing very well.

Wood smoked meats and fish and stone grilled pizza are specialties although there are a number of other mostly European choices. I ordered a glass of house white and perused the menu. They actually had quite an interesting selection of wine but I can’t drink a whole bottle to myself.

For starters I had sautéed mixed mushrooms ($48) which were agreeable. They included Portobello and Shiitake and one perhaps two others but I suspect this dish may vary from day to day depending on what chef finds in the market. Nevertheless it was a generous serving garnished with green salad.

For main I fancied the wood-smoked meat dishes and for $268 you can choose any three. For an additional $20 you can upgrade one of the meat options to fish. I ordered the New Zealand tenderloin, duck breast and red snapper.

The wood-smoking affected each type of meat differently. In the duck the difference was quite subtle whilst the snapper acquired a luxurious smoky, woody flavour that was quite delicious.

They were all delightfully arranged on a bed of creamed potato and vegetables and served on a wooden platter.

I rounded the proceeding off with a yoghurt and light cheesecake with mango ($38) and a coffee.

A full stomach always makes one feel well disposed to the world and by the end of the meal I’d forgiven the palm tree it’s transgressions and was beginning to look upon it almost with affection. In fact I’m quite looking forward to seeing it again and trying some more of the wood-smoked seafood options.

Habitu, located on level three of Lee Gardens Two in Causeway Bay is a modern, stylish restaurant specialising in the cuisines of southern Italy. For a comparatively large establishment it does an admirable job of being cosy and intimate.

This has been achieved by splitting up the area into sections and the thoughtful use of some home-style furnishing. A table with plants, a bookshelf, plasma TV and even a fire place separate the sections and give each part of the restaurant a different feel. There are four main sections; the main dining area, a VIP room, The Sun Room and The Garden Terrace on the rooftop for al fresco dining amid the skyscrapers of Causeway Bay. The main dining area includes The Hudson Bar and the Chefs Table where diners can watch as the kitchen staff go about their culinary art. We took a table in the main dining area and studied the menu.

The first item we ordered was Roasted Pumpkin Soup with whipped cream and sea urchin ($80). This was huge bowl of wonderfully rich and creamy soup, others may accuse it of being a little too rich or perhaps a tad too sweet coming so early in the meal. I had no such problem but I should say it is not a starter for those with smaller appetites. The sea urchin provided a taste of the ocean that contrasted well with the earthy flavour of the pumpkin.

We had been very tempted by the pan-seared Goose liver with wild fungi in port wine and caramelised apple but felt that may be just a little too rich after the soup. Instead we took our time over some coppa ham and veal prosciutto with poached pear and cantaloupe melon ($110) while the kitchen prepared the pasta course.

This gave me a moment to peruse the wine menu. I’d settled for a glass of house Chardonnay but the wine list is impressive and deserves a mention. There are about a hundred wines to choose from, mostly Italian and French but Australia, New Zealand and Chile are also well represented. All budgets are accommodated with about twenty choices coming in at $350 or under. Top of the class is a 1985 Chateau Lafite Rothschild which can be enjoyed for a princely $4,200 a bottle.

The pasta course was a seafood extravaganza. Black ink spaghetti with clams, mussels, prawns, cuttle fish, scallops and fish fillet in a creamy sea urchin sauce ($180). The black “ink” in the spaghetti is actually squid ink which gives the spaghetti a unique texture and flavour which, along with the sea urchin sauce, complements the seafood perfectly. And it was indeed worth complementing, fresh and tasty and it didn’t embarrass me once. I’m quite shy about eating shellfish, especially mussels. It’s a tricky business prizing them away from the shell. One lapse of concentration, the cutlery slips and the mussel becomes missile and takes flight across the restaurant. The only recourse is to duck behind a wine menu and hope nobody noticed.

By now I’m sure I must have been wearing a look of well fed contentment and smiling upon the world in general but there was still more to come. The final entree, Roast rack of lamb ($250) was delightful. Four tender and juicy ribs arranged in a pyramid over truffle mashed potatoes. The black olive and sun-dried tomato sauce complemented the meat perfectly.

For dessert I was torn between raspberry napoleon with basil sorbet and fresh cream ($65) and baked Alaska with winter chestnut sauce ($80) so I took the easy way out … Both of them were deliciously naughty, the winter chestnuts are a perfect accompaniment to this classic dessert. But for me the Napoleon won by a hair, or rather by a raspberry. Admittedly the baked Alaska was decorated with raspberries but the napoleon had lots of them. Raspberries are not very common in Hong Kong and I’d forgotten just how much I enjoyed them.

1/F Regal Hong Kong Hotel
88 Yee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2837 1772

38/F Times Tower
393 Jaffe Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2861 1666

2/F 17 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2983 2130

1/F-2/F AIA Plaza
18 Hysan Avenue
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 1331

G/F 11 Caroline Hill Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2881 5598

G/F, 30 Leighton Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2577 4914

1/F Pearl City
24-32 Patterson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 0384

1/F Mitsukoshi Department Store
Hennessy Centre
500 Hennessy Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong

P413-418 Podium 4, World Trade Centre
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 3975

27/F Bartlock Centre
3 Yiu Wah Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2893 2080

G/F Paliburg Plaza
68 Tee Wo Street
Causeway Bay
Tel 2577 7886
Fax 2577 8835

Shop C/D 6/F Lee Theatre Plaza
99 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 1993

1/F Lee Gardens Two
28 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2882 2110

2/F 33 Sharp Street East
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3162 8899

2/F Fu Hing House
60 Russell Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2808 0250

G/F 16 Pak Sha Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 4122
Fax 2572 6226

15/F Henry House
42 Yun Ping Road
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2838 2414

11/F Food Forum
Times Square
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2506 3303

1102, Food Forum
Times Square
Matheson Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 3102 9838

Basement, Causeway Corner
18 Percival Street
Causeway Bay
Hong Kong
Tel 2890 6665